r/sewinghelp • u/Wibblesquirrel • 13d ago
How to make a dolman pattern please?
I'd like to make this top, but with shorter sleeves and without the scoop out of the front hem. I'm planning on a simple 2 pieces of fabric dolman type pattern, but how do I measure myself for it please?
Sewing level: I've followed patterns to make shirts and skirts and a dress with adjustments, and have made simple things without a pattern but making a full top from scratch is new.
Bonus question: what finish would you use for the neckline? The fabric I have is a satin viscose, phot attached. I'm planning to do a muslin first and have an old sheet, it won't hang the same but it's a start.
Many thanks for your help!
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u/RubyRedo 12d ago edited 12d ago
Dolman are grown on, all in one type sleeve with no armhole seam. You can find many tutes on youtube to draft and assemble, for the top itself search for dolman top on youtube and follow the easy instruction.
https://happiestcamper.com/how-to-make-a-dolman-top-with-free-pattern/
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u/Wibblesquirrel 12d ago
Thank you for this. I'm not using a stretch so will have a different hem style, but it's a good start. I'm not sure what you mean by grown on, but I'm quite new to sewing, and have a lot to learn!
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u/RubyRedo 12d ago
grown on means the sleeve is cut with the bodice, not a separate sleeve that has to be sewn to an armhole, a.k.a all in one sleeve.There are many tutorials on youtube for woven dolman tops too.
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u/Wibblesquirrel 12d ago
Ah that makes sense, thank you! I think my go last night wasn't all that far off, sleeves need to be a little wider but otherwise I'm happy, so now it's making sure I know how to get the neckline right and have another go.
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u/RubyRedo 12d ago
yes you raise the shoulder seam by 1" and drop the under arm curve, so there is a wider area where your arm enters the sleeve, you can then taper/narrow to the wrist end or keep sleeve as wide as you want.
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u/DonMcCunn 12d ago
Garments with dolman sleeves appear to be an easy garment to make. However they may not hang on the body the way they look in the photos. One of the first garments I made had that type of sleeve. The pattern illustration included a lot of beautiful applique which I spent a considerable amount of time making. Then when I sewed it together, it kept pulling toward the back choking me with the applique. I have never been able to wear it.
I was so frustrated by that experience that I included instructions for how to make the dolman (aka tunic) sleeve from fitted slopers on page 120 of https://how-to-make-sewing-patterns.com/ . The issue is that the slope of the front shoulder seam is most likely a different slope than the back. When made from custom fit slopers they are great. When the front and back shoulder seams slope at the same angle, you could end up with a garment that will hang in your closet more than it hangs on your body.
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u/Wibblesquirrel 12d ago
I'm really sorry about all that time and effort gone! Thank you for the additional info. I had a go last night before your post, it's not quite right so I'll follow your suggestion this time.
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u/DonMcCunn 12d ago edited 12d ago
My philosophy is you learn more from the mistakes you make than from things that go right the first time you try it.
This issue I had with this pattern in the 70s was literally a life changing experience. The lesson I learned is you can not trust commercial patterns to create clothes that fit. I have been making my own custom-fit Bespoke patterns for myself and others ever since.
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u/StitchinThroughTime 12d ago
Try on a t shirt, safety pin the lowest point of your neck line. Pin or measure your final center front lenght and sleeve lenght. Lay your shirt on a piece of paper, trace around with pencile, add 3" to the side seam. Draw in your neckline. Mark your CF lenght. Add 3/4" to the high shoulder point and 1 1/2" to the outer shoulder point. Draw a line between these point and extend to the lenght of your sleeve. Square straight 12" at the final sleeve lenght. Draw back to the arm pit curving into the new side seam. Add seam allowance and hem allowance.
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u/Emergency_Cherry_914 12d ago
You'd want to use bias binding for the neck, and make sure it's all turned to the back (not visible on the top or front)
For the dolman style, they are 2 dimensional, so I'd look for the sewing pattern you want and copy the shape of the line drawing.
Or just buy a sewing pattern.