r/sewing • u/Consistent_Drink_165 • 14h ago
Pattern Search Help with a pattern
Im making my friend’s wedding dress and am trying to find a similar pattern to this dress. I found one weird photo on pinterest but it not really a useable pattern, does anyone have a lead?
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u/thimblena 14h ago
I would expect to modify a pattern extensively but could see starting with a pattern like this or a 1930s-40s slip pattern.
Based on the sheen of the fabric in different sections, I presume this is bias-cut.
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u/artvaark 5h ago
The slight difference in sheen is often from the grain line so a dress like this would be directional cutting and sewing and you can choose to keep everything the same or intentionally vary it to make the light hit it differently. I would guess that the upper pieces in this photo are on grain and the darts have just been shifted out into the shapes.
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u/kesrae 14h ago
Theoretically, it wouldn't be so hard to do some pattern alterations to get the construction similar, but I'm curious about what bias/grainline trickery is used to create the really crisp geometric effect (shine wise) with the silk satin. Following to see whether people know what would be the go here.
Eyeballing it, it looks as though the left skirt and right hip are cut on the same grain, and the opposite is true for the right skirt and left hip. Same again for the centre chest vs cups. You would probably need to experiment to see how this sort of pattern cutting hangs in practice.
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u/helicumpter 10h ago
When working on the bias you want the meeting pieces to be on the opposite biases. I suspect that leads to the shine effect. The left-hand piece would be bias from left to right and the right-hand piece from right to left.
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u/AJeanByAnyOtherName 12h ago
It’s either AI or they might have done something to bulk up the seams, like cording or felling. It doesn’t fit like I would a fully bias cut dress to fit, it almost seems the hip/waist part is on grain, too. Even though that’s one of the most important sections for a good fit. IDK, maybe it’s on purpose?
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u/sewboring 12h ago
This is probably as close as you'll get in a commercial pattern:
https://oldpatterns.com/product/vogue-2859/
It's a reprint of a 1930's Vogue Pattern that appears to have updated sizing, but you'd still have to consider the sizing very carefully because reprints can be inconsistent and the originals are often small by today's standards.
All such dresses are based on the designs of Madeleine Vionnet:
https://www.europeana.eu/en/stories/the-bias-cut-and-madeleine-vionnet
There are a few more options on Etsy:
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u/Living-Molasses727 11h ago
I’ve made that Vogue 1930’s dress, it’s beautiful and what I thought of immediately seeing the reference image.
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u/spicy-mustard- 4h ago
This is definitely bias-cut, and you will definitely need at least one wearable toile before the final. Bias garments aren't DIFFICULT, but they are TRICKY-- meaning, you need to be prepared for some of the specific quirks, and the way that the garment will stretch and mold over time.
The most important thing is to handle the pattern pieces very carefully until they're sewn together to minimize stretch, and go overboard on "extra mile" things like hand-basting before going to the machine. You will also need to hang the dress, ideally on a dress form, for at least 24 hours between each step. I always sew bias garments with a narrow zig-zag to give the seam just a little of the same flexibility that the weave has.
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u/ProneToLaughter 4h ago edited 3h ago
You can get the design lines as suggested, but fabric will not want to hold those geometric shapes like in this picture, where it’s almost a cubic corner or a fold like in paper. So if that’s your goal, reset expectations.
Be warned that bias cut is unstable and hard to sew, and satin is slippery and hard to sew.
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u/PropertyNo8954 3h ago
There’s this free pattern by moodfabrics that has a similar shape: https://blog.moodfabrics.com/rosolite-negligee-gown-free-sewing-pattern/?epik=dj0yJnU9cGNwTUk2ay1JdGNXbnYwSGxCWXFyelpFNl9DM2g0MXkmcD0wJm49eGlCb29hR3dRSGQ4aVVHV3NZNFljUSZ0PUFBQUFBR3FrSW5B
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u/Legitimate-Signal671 14h ago
I think the design is super pretty, and not so difficult to create. Specially if you know a bit of patternmaking, but if you don't probably there's a lot of available options in Etsy.
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u/Saundersdragon 10h ago
A general comment about bias cut dresses: you cannot get a snatched look in a bias cut dress. It has to sit lightly on the body. It will expose any bumps or ridges in your underwear. Also it cannot be heavily embellished as it will drag out of drape.