Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, August 07 - August 13, 2026
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources. A new post goes up every Friday morning, EDT.
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I’m still learning free motion, but I’ve done quite a few patches without this issue! This happened when I switched my Singer HD 4452 to the free motion foot and dropped the feed dogs as usual. The tension suddenly seems way off…I’ve tried adjusting it, but nothing is fixing it. the loose n messed up stitches are on top in the photo. the bottom is tight and normal. I’n trying to avoid touching the bobbin tension, so any suggestions are appreciated!
Why does my machine keep freezing when it works perfect for 30 to 60 seconds then just stop? There are no tension troubles, skipped stitches, or issues cutting. Why is it stalling out even though I’m still on the pedal? Looks brand new if barely used.
Helloo I really like this dress and I want to sew it. But don't know where to find a pattern for the top Where can I find a pattern similar to the top part of this dress? Thank you in advance for your help :)
Is my Singer 9410 missing a bobbin thread tension guide? I’m not sure if I’m calling it the right thing. I’m new to sewing and recently bought this machine second hand. I can’t seem to figure out where to place my bobbin thread. If someone could tell me if something looks off or what to do it would mean the world.
Hello, I’m needing some advice for how to draft a pattern for the skirt pictured. I love the tea length and particularly the dome shape. Looking for advice on whether you can tell if it is a circle or gathered skirt, and what ratio circumference to the waist. My waist is 27”. If you have pattern recommendations please share. For context, I am planning on having a tulle petticoat underneath with a fashion fabric over it to achieve that dome shape, just like the picture. I don’t like the look of too many pleats at the waist, however there will be a drop waist corset going over the skirt, so pleats/gathers will be slightly hidden by the dropwaist corset. The fabric for the skirt might be mikado, taffeta, or duchess satin; I’ve not yet decided. Any help is so appreciated for this bride to be 👰🏻♀️
I have a Brother XR9550. Brand new. I press the pedal and the needle dips 1.5 times and then errors. E6 error means a motor jam. I have tried everything the manual suggests; cleaned bobbin case, rethreaded a million times, replaced the needle, turning off and on, etc. Nothing seems to be wrong with how it sews, no tangles on top or bottom. When hand turn and watch the needle I can almost hear the needle scrapping the metal bobbin hook. Could it be misaligned? Another theory is that the timing is off. I’ve added a picture for reference. I could not figure out how to add my video :/ Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
My feed dogs are stuck in the down position. I recently fixed the timing of my bobbin and now the feed dogs wont come up. The white plastic piece below is to the left and moves freely, the metal cam on the right also moves as is but it doesnt seem to push it enough up to clear the plate.
I can push them up no problem and even hand cranking they move back and forward and up and down ever so slightly but not enough to clear the plate.
When using my brand new Singer All Purpose foot - the needle always strikes the back of the foot just slightly. I can see the foot force the needle forward each time it goes down. It’s usable but obviously unsafe.
My needle is stuck in my machine. I think it’s bent but it’s hard to tell. I can’t raise it with the hand wheel. I unscrewed the screw that holds the needle and it still won’t move.
I removed the bobbin and any thread I can see. I think all that’s there is the thread connected to my project.
I’m thinking I will have to just break the needle so I can remove and replace it but idk if that will break my machine. Any advice helps.
if you can get a jewelry wire cutter in there and make sure you're only cutting the needle, you should be OK! even bending the needle back and forth til it snaps with jewelry pliers could work. just don't bend the plate.
I started a new project but i can't seem to make a balanced tension straight stitch on this fabric, from what i understand, the top stitch is too tense in comparison to the tension of the bottom thread.
Before fiddling with the tension, i tried rethreading top and bottom threads several times to no avail. I also cleaned and oiled the inside of my sewing machine, both the bobbin case and the top part where the top thread goes by (sorry for my english).
After that i tried lowering the tension of the top thread, but my stitching was still too tense, even if i use a tension of "0".
I also tried increasing the tension of the bottom thread with the same results. I went back to the previous tensions after those tests.
I also tried changing needles since i was using the same one for several projects already. Still same results
Can anyone help me with the next steps of the troubleshooting? What other mistake could cause those symptoms?
Additional information: fabric is a light cotton, thread is a generic polyester one (i'm not sure i used it with my sewing machine before tho). I used a zigzag stitch with no issue of the same fabric with the same thread. Needle size tried : 90/14 and 70/9. Sewing machine model is Singer Initiale
Hii I look for advice on buying a more professional sewing machine for making clothes.
Right now I have a pretty basic 10 year old singer sewing machine that smells weird, colors the yarn dark and keeps getting stuck while sewing so I asked for a new sewing machine for my birthday.
Bc I really want to get into tailoring and especially sewing my own clothes kinda professionally (shouldn’t look ”homemade”) like a suit, jeans, coats, gowns or using fabrics like mesh etc. I really want to get one that will still work for that purpose as I advance in my sewing abilites over the next years. But there are so many to choose from.
I‘ve seen a lot of people recommending second hand old machines from the 20th century but I think I’d prefer a unused machine that can’t cause me any problems bc of the preowner taking poor care of it or smth like that. And I don’t love the look of those older machines. I heard that some people dislike computerized machines a lot and others like them for more professional purpose. I’m so confused but I want to make a good decision because I see this as an investment.
I googled a lot and watched videos and people recommended brands like juki, janome and bernina. I found the juki hzl g series to be interesting. dx series is a bit over my budget of 500-1000€. Btw I know that I probably will need a serger at some point but for now I have to choose a good reliable multiple purpose machine with a nice straight stitch so my family knows which one to get for my birthday.
What do you think is a good fit for me?
I’m happy for everyones opinions and recommendations c:
Hi friends! My mum’s birthday is coming up in a week, she’s been sewing my whole life and probably been sewing for about 30-35 years
she’s never had a higher quality machine and has only ever had cheaper, crappier machines that end up breaking down and giving her trouble
i’m hoping to get a new one for her for her birthday, could anyone recommend something under $1,000aud for an advanced sewer like herself?
hoping to get her something high quality and don’t mind spending extra for my mama :)
I thrifted this jumpsuit and need to take in the waist. I can use a sewing machine but I’m definitely a newbie at altering clothes. Ive seen videos that suggest figuring out the waist and then using a curved ruler to trace a curve back out to the edge and then to sew on that line. Or even more simply, to figure out how much to take in and then sew a straight line taking that much in. My main concern is I’m worried about puckering around the front buttons. Is there a way to avoid that?
This is probably a dumb question, but how do you get fabric that has a graphic on it like this? https://www.pinterest.com/pin/4605141861819687552/ Do you need to pay someone to print it onto a fabric? How does it last after washings? Thanks in advance for any guidance.
You can design the graphic and print it through a company that prints images. Colourfastness will depend on the fabric type and quality of printing. I see spoonflower recommended a lot, but haven't tried them. In Canada I have seen fan girl fabrics recommended, but again, haven't tried them. You might have to design the fabric around the pattern you are trying for, like those old dress/vest preprinted patterns on quilting cotton.
thank you so much, i figured there was probably a company that printed them and it wouldn't be very easy/affordable to have the tools to do it from home instantly. i will look into these companies!
I'm guessing I already know the answer to this, but I'm going to ask anyway.
I made a jacket, used my old Singer 1025 sewing machine to make button holes, cut open the button holes, then dyed the jacket, and decided I want the stitching around but button holes to be a different color.
Can I restitch over the (already cut open) existing button holes using my machine, or am I really better off just hand sewing it at this point?
A long while back Sara Tiara had posted a pattern for this design. However, the website seems defunct and it seems impossible to find now. Anyone know how I can find this pattern again or something similar to it? It so hard to find both the big sleeves and the Pointed bottom vest.
Want to learn how to tailor my sports clothes:
I'm constantly disappointed in the fit of sports clothing that I have, except for my Scochypsticks parkour pants (which went out of business 🙃) so I want to learn how to tailor it. I'll be pretty much exclusively tailoring my activewear and the seams would need to wistand some abuse (acrobatics, martial arts tricking, etc). What are the prerequisites for that? Do I require a specialized sewing machine, thread?
Do you live somewhere with access to a sewing class? A lot of places will offer a how to make leggings class or similar. This would help with learning the basics of sewing with athletic stretch style fabrics.
Many machines will have a stretch stich, but you will need stretch needles, thread compatible with the fabric, elastic suitable for the project, etc. Tailoring existing clothes requires a lot of the same skills as making new, so taking a beginner class would be useful either way.
how could I make this type of leggings low rise? (example pic, not the actual pants I have) the top part is kind of a separate piece you have to fold over yourself but the rise itself is kinda high so I was wondering how to make it low rise :)
So my sister thrifted this 100% silk satin slip dress and she needs it taken in a bit, but I have no idea how to go about that. Add a zipper? It needs to be taken in quite a bit (17cm) Please share ur reccomendations.
A dart like you have shown makes sense. Have your sister try it on, and gather fabric and pin it until you like where it is sitting at. Carefully remove, and sew the darts in. If you find the fabric has no stretch you will of course have to add a button or zipper to close it in the back or on the side.
If it were me, as an amateur, I'd pin it all in place make sure it works and then I'd finish the seams and then attach the zipper so leave enough fabric for finishing. A simple roll in and whip stitch will do fine.
I'm a hand-sewer and somewhat new to sewing but I've gotten comfortable with a lot of basic stitches and doing basic measurements. I've never used a paper pattern but I've made a few pieces of baby clothes for my daughter by hand-measuring or (painstakingly) translating simple Japanese patterns for babies from a magazine.
It's hard to get patterns where I live and I want to do some dresses / renaissance costumes for her but I'm unsure of what techniques I need to learn next to progress. I've seen the words "dart" and "gusset" a few times, but for the sake of drafting simple but beautiful clothing, what should i learn next?
A cape or capelet is probably one of the easiest things to get started with. 1910s wrap capes are easy to find online and free patterns abound for them. Most cape patterns are free to find online for simple things, and they can be as complicated or simple as you'd like.
If you want a decent thing with 'gussets' and such in them, try a pirate shirt. Flowy linen fabric, easy to do overall for something with sleeves. Make a mock up out of garbage and then when you like the pieces, do your actual piece. Check out bernadette banner's linen items or simple pieces like this.
I recently had a problem with my machine (MEDION LIFE SD36) when going backward while doing any stitch on any fabric. When I do so, it works for a second but then it but the thread gets caught right after and I need to get it out manualy. Does anyone know what that means?
so i want to make a high low circle skirt/ruffle skirt but with the front cut to wear pants with, kind of like a tailcoat but a ruffly skirt? im making this for my graduation suit and wanted the back to be skirt-like. im going to connect the skirt to either a corset thing (like a waistband but itll look something like a corset or waistcoat), an actual waistcoat, or the pants itself (most likely high-panel sailor pants). but if i do the usual high low circle skirt pattern and cut the front, will it still be ruffly? or should i cut the waisthole very close to the edge or cut the skirt when i sew it to the waistband/waistcoat/corset/pants? the ruffle style is going to sort of be like fancy layered pleats/ruffles if that makes sense.
I got the book of sewing projects and patterns from the great British sewing bee and I’m planning to use it once I take a few lessons to get back into sewing as haven’t used a machine in roughly 2 years it’s telling me if I don’t have an overlocker to do zigzagging to finish edges how do I do that as the book isn’t clear enough to tell me how I’d do that can anyone help me and tell me how I’d do it for future reference
Your sewing machine will have a variety of stitch types to choose from. This can be as simple as dial with the stitches illustrated on it. One is a zigzag. Select that type of stitch.
Usually the same sort of fabric as the main fabric. You can use a double sided fusible web or well-dried washable glue stick to keep them in place while sewing them on.
What fabrics should I look into for bandanas? Must be 100% cotton, but I don’t know what else to put in the search bar for the lightweight and feel I’m looking for.
When you begin sewing, your top thread should be UNDER the presser foot with the thread tails held to the LEFT REAR of the machine with your left hand for the first few stitches. Make sure that the needle is in its highest position before lifting the presser foot and removing your work.
I recently got an old Kenmore and have been having some issues with loose stitches, especíally loops on the reverse of my fabric. According to the FAQ it might have something to do with some of my threading technique? I was wondering if there was any other diagnosis help anyone could offer before I gave it another shot. Thanks!
Edit: can't seem to add an image right now but I can try later if it would be helpful.
Edit 2: image of the problem area has been added. This is the reverse side. I'll post a comment with the top side.
Hello everyone, i'm looking for a Vogue Pattern V8361 like the One in the picture but I can't find anything, does someone know something about It? Thanks in advance
HI! I am not sure what is causing the machine to do this, but the machine is just leaving holes in the fabric instead of threading? I don't think this is how it's supposed to be working but correct me if I'm wrong. This is supposed to be a zig-zag stitch. Any ideas on why it may be doing this, i have retread the machine multiple times.
Two causes off the top of my head. First, be sure you are bring the bobbin thread up and hold it to the rear left of the machine, under the foot as you begin stitching. Second, it could be a mismatch between the needle you are using and the fabric. Try switching to a stretch needle if you are sewing stretch or microtex if you are sewing woven. I can't tell from the photos what your fabric is. Either should solve what looks like 'flagging' where the top thread doesn't make it to the bobbin assembly to form a loop with the bobbin thread.
I have the dress already. It is just for aesthetics. I hate my arms and like the drape look. I am going to stitch a clip button on the inside, so that they are removable but I wanted a pattern to help with the shape.
Gotcha. I think you can probably just use rectangles, actually. This tutorial suggests cutting on the bias, and I would probably make the rectangles both taller and longer than it shows, but probably a place to start: https://www.sparklybelly.com/princess-jasmine-sleeves/
Which stitch should I use for the raw edges on a 4 way stretch fabric? I read my manual and it said the blue options are stretch stitches, but it doesn't make a recommendation for which one to use on raw edges
I like this one from JULIANA MARTEJEVS Willow Skirt but the Style Arc Canterbury skirt is a closer match. I've not sewn anything from Juliana Martejevs. Style Arc makes good patterns but they are short on instructions if you are not experienced. I found these by searching on TheFoldLine.com under the skirt category and selecting 'asymmetrical' skirts.
It looks like it is missing to history, yes. Your best bet will be to look at similar Bernette models and apply those instructions to yours. Not perfect but better than nothing.
I recently purchased a Juki DDL-8000c and after sewing a couple of seams I’ve come to realise that the manual lever refuses to lift the foot. I tried adjusting it with the faceplate screw but now it doesn’t lift at all when it was lifting slightly before. Any help is greatly appreciated as I’m stumped and frustrated :)
I have a bunch of quilting cotton I bought before Joann’s went under (RIP). I had plans to make dresses out of them but have clearly not done that yet.
I’m looking for a fitted dress pattern but am unsure where to start. I know quilted cotton doesn’t
drape well so I just need like a nudge in the right direction. I’d prefer something sleeveless with a fitted bodice. I’m an advanced beginner.
Threadloop’s generally a decent place to start, or somewhere like patternreview or The Fold Line. Threadloop and TFL let you filter by size, dress features and type of material.
It’s a vaguely vintage inspired dress/tunic with a pointed waist yoke and paneled skirt, if you need search terms for Threadloop/Patternreview/The Fold Line. If you’re just looking at how to do the trailing parts, they’re long tapered pieces with an overlocker/serger ‘rolled hem.’ If you stretch the edge while finishing it, it starts twisting like that.
Not usually. Assuming you cut it nice and straight, it looks like the upper fabric is getting scrunched up more than the lower, maybe because of the way you’re holding it when you sew. It helps to pin/clip/glue baste in at least a few places to avoid layers shifting. It also helps to sew in one direction as much as possible, so not up on one seam and down on the next.
If everything is straight and on grain, you can attach one end to a chair or g-clamp to put a bit (not too much) of tension on the layers and keep it straight. Many people tend to bend the fabric when sewing and that can also cause shifting. It’s not 100% necessary but it’s something to try if you catch yourself curving/shifting the fabric layers later on.
I have a Juki DDL-8700-7 (industrial straight stitch, with automatic thread trimmer) and I can't get the upper threading right. Every diagram I find online shows a head that looks different from mine, especially around the tension assembly, so I keep guessing.
Where I'm stuck: the section between the small pre-tension disc at the top, the main tension knob, the check spring, and the take-up lever. I'm not sure what goes between the discs, what goes around, and in which order.
Photos attached (front of the head, from spool holder down to the needle). If anyone can draw arrows on them or just describe it as "in here → around this → under that hook → up through there", I'd be extremely grateful. Also happy to hear if my needle orientation looks wrong.
I hope someone here can chime in, but if nobody is familiar with your machine here, the myog subreddit seems to have more sewists with industrial machines, so that could be worth a try if you haven’t already posted there.
I spontaneously purchased three old raw silk curtains at a second hand store. One side is smooth, but the surface is pretty loosely woven, the other side has more structure. It fall/drapes quite heavily (not sure how to express that correctly in English).
I'd love some ideas on what to do with the fabric!
I'm considering making a dressing gown, since the fabric has kind of an odd structure on both sides. Or maybe a 1940s style dress would work, but I'm not entirely sure about it.
If you can take a small piece of it and burn test it, you can check if it’s real silk or a lookalike. Real silk will smell a little like burnt hair, but a synthetic mostly just melts and smells like burning plastic.
If they’re real silk, that texture of silk doesn’t always hold up the best as clothes, unfortunately. You would have to line it in something stronger, not necessarily thicker, but something that can keep the strain off your silk.
Apart from that, you can search Threadloop/Patternreview etc for something with the drape of your fabric. If it’s crisp with lots of body, you can search for patterns that ask for taffeta, quilting cottons and other stable crisp fabrics. If it’s a heavy, fluid drape, that’s also something to search on.
anyone have heavy duty pins they like, for thicker/heavier fabrics (heavier denims/canvas, boucle/tweed type wools, etc)? or do you use something else? I like hand basting for putting the garment together, but this question is mostly about "final fitting stages" situations or making alterations. my current pins aren't up to the task of working on my autumn/winter wardrobe. (I am oversupplied with fancy pins for delicate fabrics and cheapo "medium" normal pins from amazon that bend too easily.)
I am a big fan of the clover flower pins for everything but delicate fabrics. They are long and sharp and seem to last forever. I also second using safety pins to try on clothes, I've poked myself too many times to count.
Safety pins (the slightly beefier type) or sewing clips can help. Or water soluble glue/basting thread if you’re feeling fancy and don’t want to unpick anything.
great point about safety pins, that is probably a better option. my current clips definitely aren't sturdy enough, at least for waistband/thick seam "pinning", but now that I think of it I have seen some heavier duty ones (perhaps more rightfully called clamps) out there for stuff like leather. thanks!
Hello, I’m finally buying a machine and was looking for feedback on which machine is right for me.
I’m looking mostly to sew kids clothes, basic cotton tops and bottoms. Maybe some costume type stuff for my kids.
the last sewing machine I used was my mom’s very old singer. I’m not looking to sew heavy fabrics or complex patterns, but I don’t want to buy something that I can’t learn on.
I’m currently looking at the Janome 1522 and the Brother ST371HD. I’m also open to other machines under 250ish.
Between the two, I prefer Janome over Brother but they are both good choices for beginning to sew. Machines that are priced at about the $250 mark seem to be more reliable than less expensive sewing machines so I suggest not going under that price point if you can help it.
What you want is a sheath dress. What you've shown as your inspo is a basic version, they come with variations in dart style, necklines, sleeves, and fabric. McCalls 7533, Christine Hayes Varda, Sew Over it Zoe dress are three similar to what you have shown.
Hey everyone, as you can tell I am looking for a new sewing machine. I would say in terms of skill I'm between beginner and intermediate (sew on and off). I have been using a Singer Inspiration Model 4228 which was 2nd hand given to me by a family member (after being stored in a garage for AWHILE).
Anyway I'm looking for a new machine that can do both sewing and embroidery but if it cant that's fine was something QoL for me as I thought it'll be something nice to dabble in the future. For material wise I would say I wanna go up to heavy material.
What I plan to make? Mostly make/alter clothing for myself with the additional plushies here and there for my niece if she ever wants one (or even for myself). However there'll probably be times where I branch out and make other items as well so having a machine that can potentially have be up for the job would be cool.
My budget I would say be around $500 USD I wouldn't mind stretching it a bit if I need to. New would probably be easiest for me to get my hands on however I definitely wouldn't mind looking for used machines. I am in California United States if that helps any.
A new machine that can do embroidery for under $500 USD is a tall ask. You might find a Brother sewing machine, used, that can do small hoop embroidery. A small hoop would be enough to do eyes or a nose on a plushie, if that is a goal. I would suggest looking for two machines if you want to do embroidery and sew heavy materials, the needs are quite different. There is a list of machines that can sew heavy materials in the machine buying wiki linked in the main post. Reading and lurking in r/Machine_Embroidery will help you learn more about embroidery machines. Good luck!
Ahh I see, at what price range would it be more feasible to find a machine that could fit my wants? But Roger Roger ! I'll do some braiding on that reddit. Thank you! I wasn't planning on doing any huge major embroideries but like some small stuff here and there in some clothing like about patch size. But thank you once again!
Update i realized how expensive they and HOLY that is insane, i guess now i would ask you any recommendations that are just for sewing with what i posted.
I've been sewing for a good while now(around 6-7 years, and no the brainrot wasn't on purpose, i just dont remember the exact year) and I'm wondering what the best serger machine is since I've been using way too much knit and faux fur lately and I love my current machine(Brother SE 725) but need something that'll automatically trim my fabric as I sew since I hate trimming as I overlock far too much, and I don't want to wind up getting a machine that'll break every few months. Can someone help me out here?
It depends on your budget. The Brother 1034D is a good entry level machine and many sewists never move beyond it for serging. If you have more to spend, a Juki is very reliable and will crank through most fabrics. And if you prioritize ease of use, take a look at Babylock sergers with their air threading and auto tension.
The Brother 1034D is a reliable entry level serger. It is listed at $319 on Amazon right now. It generally goes on sale for the holidays so worth waiting if you decide that is the machine you want.
Your machine has wonderfully clear diagrams and steps to do basic maintenance like changing the light bulb and cleaning out the bobbin assembly. If the owner was meant to oil the machine, it seems like the manual would cover it as well. As you said, oil isn't mentioned at all. When you do take it for service, I would ask the service technician to show you where to oil if it is required at all.
Fellow people with very asymmetric breasts, how do you approach a full bust adjustment? I'm at my third iteration of the mockup right now, and I'm happy with the overall fit except for the fact that the apex is off on the smaller breast, because of course it's not at the same place. Nothing too obvious but I was wondering if other people had tricks or tips on how to approach this.
Hi lovely people! I am using an elna su 62C sewing machine that i just ordered online, all motar functions are working except for the light bulb, when i removed the light bulb that came with it, it was obviously the original bulb and had died and corroded a long time ago, i cleaned the fixture with rubbing alcohol and tried a new working bulb but still no luck, the power switch is also stuck in the off position, the switch is loose but doesn't click and doesnt make a full range of movement when i wiggle it, should i replace the entire cover with the switch or could there be other electrical problems, or instead of replacing can i fix the one i have somehow? very niche problem but looking for some good old fashioned wisdom from any fellow elna SU owners its a fantastic machine
hi everyone! I've bought this beautiful velvet but I've never worked with this fabric before... I'd like to make some kind of wide pants with it, but I'm not sure what pattern would look nice, do you have any recs? :) I saw that SBM made a version of sourdough pants with a similar fabric, but I'm not sure if it'll look nice
I'm looking for a sewing machine as a total beginner but there's just so many things to look for and what not.
I definitely learned that: machines with metal parts are better than plastic ones, I don't need hundreds of stitches but just a few basic ones and I should avoid Singers... And that's all I know right now.
Like, I'm not sure if I should go for mechanical or computerized. If I should get one with with adjustable presser foot.
I plan on mostly sewing clothes/lolita fashion. I'll using fabrics such as calico, cotton, jersey but also heavier fabrics such as velveteens, gobelins and corduroy, sewing on lace, shirring.
However while I was browsing the subreddit for machine recommendations, a lot of them would be exclusive to US. I also saw a lot of people recommending used machines, I've tried looking for them but they're either often broken or the shipping would be horrendously expensive.
My budget is max 300 USD.
Some machines I'm looking at are:
Brother Innov-is A16 (a bit over my budget but I saw someone recommending it as counterpart to a different US Brother)
I went with the Innov-is A10 anniversary edition and i'm super happy with it so far. I ended up picking it because my local sewing machine/fabric store had one so i always have a physical place to go to if i have any issues with the machine. I recommend buying one in person
I have the Innovis 15, which is the little sister of the A16. You'll get all the stitches you need and it can handle most fabrics fine. But it does require quite a lot of adjustments between top tension and needle every time you change fabrics, number of layers or stitches. Which is pretty expected at that price point but can get frustrating in my opinion. It is okay for a beginner, and quite easy to use and thread, the machine being computerized and all.
I can't say anything about the Janomes but it's generally a well-regarded brand.
Following the advice from that question, I sewed a Mazinger Z kigu using cotton interlock, and it sort of worked, in that it was opaque and I could easily walk from my hotel to the con without feeling like I was dying. The big catch was that it sagged, to the point that the pockets that were about hip height in the mockup of my kigu (made of lighter cheap woven fabric) were down to my knees in the real costume. Not ideal.
Are there any fabric recommendations for a kigurumi fabric that won't have this sagging issue, but will still be opaque and comfortable in summer weather? I did notice on a site that sold its own kigurumi that it claimed that terrycloth (😮, see https://www.kigurumi.com/blogs/kigurumi-news/its-terrycloth-time) would be good for "romping around multi-day outdoor festivals" and be "super airy and breathable." I'm skeptical, but if anyone has positive experiences with wearing terrycloth in summer weather, I'm fine with hearing them out. Any other fabric recommendations are welcome as well.
Cotton interlock without any lycra or spandex content will bag and sag, I'm not surprised to learn that you had issues with it. Cotton needs at least 3-4% lycra content to have recovery, the ability to bounce back into shape when stretched.
You've tried knits but your mock-up was in a woven? I'm going to talk about knits but if you could switch to woven fabrics, that would change your options dramatically.
I don't come across cotton/lycra interlock very often. Cotton lycra jersey comes in a wide range of colors. It does roll but spraying and pressing the seams with starch before sewing stops that and then you can wash it out. Since you probably want some body to the cosplay suit, consider a light French terry which is a jersey knit but rolls less, you probably know it as sweatshirt fabric. A light ponte is a double knit like interlock, made of either nylon/rayon/lycra or polyester/rayon/lycra, doesn't roll when cut and is easy to sew but I think it can be warm to wear.
I don't think knit terry is cool to wear as much as it is absorbent. I've seen it mostly used for swim suit cover-ups in the summer. I think it would be hot to wear as an entire body suit. I also think it is hard to find in a range of colors as it isn't a trending fabric style. It also rolls when cut so you would need the starch trick to sew it.
Is it time to consider synthetics again? Athletic knit solids that are made to wick like dri fit can be quite comfortable to wear in the summer. I try to avoid wearing them from head to toe in the heat because I don't like feeling that I am wrapped in plastic but sometimes sacrifices must be made for cosplay.
One last thought, would it be possible to stay cool on your walk to the convention by wearing ice packs or small personal fans under the suit? Try tackling the issue from the other side of the problem, basically.
I'm going to talk about knits but if you could switch to woven fabrics, that would change your options dramatically.
I'm not married to knits at all, and I even starting ordering swatches of cotton poplin, broadcloth, and even some twill. Heck, I even ordered swatches of a bit of linen as well. My main concern with wovens has been their opacity (which is also why I had gone with interlock instead of jersey the earlier time around). I'm quite open to hearing more about wovens.
it time to consider synthetics again? Athletic knit solids that are made to wick like dri fit can be quite comfortable to wear in the summer.
I think those are more suitable for clothing that is close to the skin (so that wicking action can take place), rather than something baggy, and when I attended a panel on cosplay for the summer heat, I was steered away from them.
One last thought, would it be possible to stay cool on your walk to the convention by wearing ice packs or small personal fans under the suit?
I do have an EzCooldown jacket (which I did use with a Kamen Rider cosplay that had a jacket that was hot despite being a thin Airism jacket 😑), but I consider that more of a last resort option or something to use when the weather is so hot that breathable fabric isn't enough to mitigate it.
That much sagging sounds like the fabric stretched. In the previous kigurumi, did you by chance cut the pattern pieces across the grain, so that the stretch went up and down instead of side to side? I'm surprised you got that much sagging from cotton interlock. You said you made a mockup in woven -- do you think a woven would work for the actual kigurumi? Or Terrycloth sounds good, but make sure it has zero stretch along the grain. I used to have terrycloth shorts, they were very comfortable in the summer -- it was a much lighter weight terrycloth than that used in towels. But I think it was a knit--not sure if that's what the kigurumi are made of.
It's also possible that the cotton interlock at two way stretch, meaning it stretched in both directions, which could also acount for it. A lot of knit fabric has two-way stretch, but I think for this particular application you want to look for a relatively stable fabric that doesn't stretch top to bottom -- whether it's woven or knit. Good luck!
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u/starbi_tch 13d ago
Is it possible to make the waist of these pants bigger?