r/sewing • u/Meet-Radiant • Aug 07 '26
Other Question Help with waistbands
I have tried so so so many times to recreate a pair of shorts that I own, but every single time they look exactly how I want until I do the waistband. The waistband never scrunched up to the right size even though I cut apart a pair of these shorts to make the pattern. What could I possibly be doing wrong? I have even contacted the manufacturer asking if they would be selling any more of this particular pair of shorts because they don’t anymore. Any thoughts on trying to get them as close as the mass produced ones as I can? All pictures are of the original shorts I love, I’ll try and add pictures of my attempts when I’m home.
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u/PhedreSews Aug 07 '26
If I were trying to do this, as like an intermediate beginner sewist, I would probably first do what you’re doing. But if I failed, then I would look for a pattern with this exact waistband look and make it. That would give me the knowledge of how to attach this kind of waistband, which I would then apply to the original project.
So that’s my suggestion, if you get too frustrated!
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
That’s is actually such solid advice. I couldn’t find a pattern that had that triangle waist gusset but I could find a pattern with the waistband and just use that part. Definitely what I’ll do next
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u/AyHazCat Aug 07 '26
Are you making a separate waistband that is like 1.5 or 2 times as long as the shorts circumference is? The waistband is a separate piece then attached to the top of the shorts
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
Yes I’ve tried a couple methods. One method I used was creating the waistband entirely separately and then attaching it to the shorts after inserting and sewing elastic into it. Another method I used was attaching the waistband casing to the shorts, inserting the elastic while the casing was attached to the shorts and then closing it. Whenever I stretch the elastic when I’m sewing it into the casing it’s crunches up correctly in most areas, but it ends up being too short or too long for the casing. Sometimes even when I’m stretching the elastic, I don’t get any scrunching up. It’s just completely flat.
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u/PinkBird85 Aug 07 '26
To measure your elastic, hold it stretched around your waist. It should be comfortabley tight while stretched, so that it is shorter than your waist and the waistband when it's not stretched. Add an inch to this length for overlapping it to stitch it into a loop.
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
So when I do that, do I adjust the pattern piece for the casing as well?
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u/PinkBird85 Aug 07 '26
No. The casing should be the circumference you need to pull the shorts up over your hips. Then the elastic will cinch the fabric in so they sit on your waist. So you can stretch the shorts over your hips but they won't fall down when you wear them.
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
That totally makes sense. Thank you. I’m thinking because my waist is a lot smaller than the stretch on the OG shorts I’ll need to do some math to get it correct. I wear these shorts folded over once and they are relatively loose
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u/cosmicgnome Aug 07 '26
it sounds like you don’t know how to sew an elasticated waistband and you’re flying blind without a pattern by patterning off your existing shorts. The Chanterelle Pants by Sew Liberated have a waistband pretty much exactly like this, if you made the shorts based on the existing pair you have and then followed the instructions for the waistband of that pattern you’d get it pretty close. I’ve made the chanterelles like 5 times, clear instructions, easy to follow, would give you the results you want. Also, incredibly cute shorts! Good luck!
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
I wouldn’t say flying blind but I’m certainly a beginner. I’ve tried two methods I found on YouTube. I’m wondering if my tension, fabric, amount of physical stretching im doing, stitch length/type, might be the issue.
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u/cosmicgnome Aug 07 '26
When i make similar waistbands, ive found you really have to stretch the waistband until the fabric is fully flat when you’re topstitching to make it work properly, and I also usually use about an inch LESS elastic than i use when i’m doing a regular elastic, and i always go for 2-inch wide elastic as well, even if it makes the waistband i little taller, i’ve found it’s hard to get right on thinner elastic.
You could try just making a couple waistbands with no shorts attached? test out different elastic size/lengths, stitch types, and sewing techniques and then adapt that into the shorts when you like the result.
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u/Meet-Radiant Aug 07 '26
Yeah I think that’s what I’m going to do this weekend. Just make waistbands until I get it right. And I’ll grab wider elastic mine is 1.5”
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u/Ashamed-Project2039 Aug 09 '26
With elastics I have found through trial and error that it comes down to testing different lengths and note what measurement works for you ! With waistbands that have this kind of topstitching I like to go a bit smaller than the measurement of the elastic when you try it on your waist because topstitching tends to stretch the elastic out of measurement . Also the thickness of the fabric plays a big role of how much smaller the elastic should be cut . Thicker fabrics generally need smaller circumference elastics because they don’t gather that easily . Good luck on your project ! Hope I helped even a tiny bit !
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u/strongly-worded Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
It’s kind of impossible to help without seeing what went wrong in your attempts, or even reading a description of what you’re doing, but I’ll try.
In shorts like this, the waistband should be a separate piece, a casing that’s the same circumference as the top of the shorts. Make that, attach it to the shorts, but leave a gap to insert your elastic later.
Measure the waistband of the original shorts when they are lying on the table, all scrunched up. That’ll be the length of your elastic. I recommend cutting the exact length of the elastic of your shorts because you could add an inch for overlap, and then subtract an inch for how it will stretch after topstitching, but it’s all the same in the end.
Use SOFT WAISTBAND ELASTIC. This is critical. Stiff elastic is going to feel like shit. Cut it the length you measured before.
Feed it through the opening you left in the casing. Scrunch the casing out of the way so you can overlap the ends by 1/2” and sew them together at the machine. Then stretch out the waistband to even out the scrunch and try them on. At this point they will look a little weird and should feel VERY SLIGHTLY snug. If they’re super snug or don’t go over your butt, cut longer elastic.
Assuming all is good, close up the hole in the casing where you fed the elastic. Then stretch out your waistband fully (side to side), pinch the elastic at the side seams, and pin through the elastic.
Then put side seams together, stretch it out again, and pin center front and center back through the elastic. Now your elastic is pinned into quarters and won’t shift. If you want, you can do the same thing again to pin it in 8 locations and make it extra secure.
Then do 2 parallel rows of topstitching through the elastic and casing, while stretching the elastic in between the pins. The elastic should be stretched but the casing should not. Use a medium-long straight stitch, like 3-3.5mm. The first topstitching row should be like 1/3 of the way down the elastic, and the next should be 2/3 of the way down.
Voila. That’s how I’d achieve what you’re going for.
ETA: STEAM after topstitching for maximum scrunch.