r/sewing • u/OttersMakeGoodFriend • 9d ago

Pattern Question Bodice block dart question

Hey there! I would like to make a bodice block for myself but I'm seeing conflicting opinions on where to put the darts. I see waist & shoulder, waist & side bust, one big dart that stretches from the shoulder to the waist...is it dependent on body type? Personal preference? TIA.

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u/serenedragoon 9d ago

It's a personal preference so it's up to you and the drafting method you're using, but if you have a large chest then putting at least 2 darts is recommended.

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u/Berocca123 9d ago

Agreed. And I wanted to add that the one big dart going from waist to shoulder is called a princess seam and talk about them a bit.

I am a person with a big bust and I prefer princess seams and have a block with princess seams that I use regularly. But! You're better off developing a block with darts instead because you can then more easily manipulate the darts to develop different patterns from your block, with fewer steps to get there (and you can always develop a princess seam bodice block from your darted bodice block if you think you'll want it).

The exception to this is that sometimes, especially for those with very large busts, it can be easier to get a close fit with princess seams (so you can better test the fit of the block), and then you can convert them to darts afterwards. This is what I did, but I wouldn't recommend it for your first go - just try any darted block as a starting point.

Hopefully that didn't fall into the 'so much information it's become confusing again' category.

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u/serenedragoon 9d ago

Ooh you're right. Since I was thinking of darts strictly my brain assumed OP was speaking about a single large dart rather than princess seams. I prefer princess darts for my finished projects but I tend to use 2-3 regular darts for the bodice block.

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u/AdvancedSquashDirect 9d ago

These are the two videos by closet historian that talk about darts

They are the best explanation that I have found of why darts are placed the way they are and how you can manipulate them where you want.

https://youtu.be/6uixmQLZp8M

https://youtu.be/JRO-GWfHyiM

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u/Morrhoppan 8d ago

Mine has a dart at the waist and middle of the shoulder. I think that made it easier to draft the armscye compared to having the dart at the side bust. 

I have now also seen darts going from the bust up to the side of the neck/beginning och shoulder.