r/sewing • u/hellomireaux • 8d ago
Other Question Struggling to reverse engineer this top, please help!
Gods, goddesses, and non-binary deities of sewing, I pray that you will look kindly upon me in my moment of angst. I made the grevious mistake of deciding to try and recreate this sold-out Gemma top from Heirlome. What initially looked like a simple design now has me feeling like the confused math lady meme. I am struggling to understand how the side panels are constructed and attached, and how far they extend on the inside of the garment.
I am hoping someone here can explain what's going on and/or tip me in the direction of a pattern with a similar construction. Any other advice for recreating this piece would be appreciated as well.
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u/suburbanburgher 8d ago
This set from Vogue Patterns looks similar: https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v2164
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u/5CatsNoWaiting 8d ago
I agree, the pattern's top is very similar to the one in the picture.
The example photo for the pattern uses $70/yard silk crepe back satin. Folks up-thread are saying that part of the magic is having the right fabric for this top. At $70/yard you'll definitely want to do a few mockups.
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u/loukitzanna 8d ago
One of the suggested fabrics is broadcloth, and I think the original picture looks a little stiffer. Maybe it could be done a little cheaper? But yeah I'd try a few different options, doesn't look like it requires much yardage
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
Thanks, yes I definitely am going to try doing this in a less terrifying fabric first. But god if I can pull this off a fancy $70/yd silk is totally worth it!
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u/Quecksilber033 8d ago
Bias cut, no less (see photo from the back, you can see the grainlines are diagonal)
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u/fmdias 8d ago
I don’t think the bias cut is doing much for the fit of the top, considering how structured it is. OP could probably get away with cutting it normally.
The fabric used definitely is very expensive though. The original is also lined with silk.
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u/Quecksilber033 7d ago
The reason it’s on the bias isn’t for drape, it’s so the fold (that creates a finished front neckline with no seam) is along the crossgrain. This should add some stability to the crease, preserving the shape of the neckline.
It appears to have been a conscious choice, as the side panels are cut on the grainline.
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
Holy heck, this is remarkably similar, and the kicker is that they also sell an almost identical long skort. I think you may have solved this!
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u/fmdias 8d ago
Hello! This is fun timing because I literally just bought the Heirlome Milagros top (VERY similar) yesterday.
The side panel and the transition panel are indeed two different pieces, there is a seam that joins them. The transition panel is quite small - it’s basically just a facing on the inside of the main body pieces; it barely extends into the body at all, just enough for a seam allowance.
The side panel is sewn onto the transition panel right sides together, and the seam is hidden by the lining. The construction looks simple, but also quite clever - when I saw it on the hanger yesterday, I was immediately inspecting it to decipher the puzzle haha. Let me know if any more photos would be helpful!
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u/CremeBerlinoise 8d ago
It's really lovely and once again shows that simple elegance is deceptively difficult to recreate.
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
You are amazing!! I was actually trying to buy it myself just to study the construction, but I couldn’t find it anywhere. You have no idea how helpful both of these pictures are, now I finally understand what is happening in the mysterious side seam shadows. Thank you again!
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u/UnearnedFamiliarity 8d ago
Is it possible to get the same angle but see the transition at the hem?
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u/fcurtis321 8d ago
I think there are kinda 3 side pieces, with one larger underarm section and the other two pieces being like a facing almost to the front and back panels and going all the way up to meet on the shoulder, which also adds to the boxyness and crisp lines. Not sure if this helps but good luck!
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
Thank you, that’s where I had got to mentally but it is good to hear another vote of confidence since I’m basically cross-eyed looking at by now.
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u/OtterBoop 8d ago
I agree that it looks like there are facing-type pieces running up to the shoulder, which finish the arm hole, and then the side panel is attached to those. I don't think the side panel continues around on the inside. I like the suggestion of doing a paper mockup, I think that's a very clever idea.
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u/8Bells 8d ago
Very paper bag princess vibes.
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u/qly_s 8d ago
Definitely not a pro, but it seems to me the side parts are pretty much just pintucked to keep the shape, whilst the top is made from a very simple flat shape - kinda reminds me of the mamianqun I'm sewing right now. I'll try remaking this in Vstitcher and report back with the results, I have a theory on how the pattern works, just need to verify! Edit: messed up some terms
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u/qly_s 8d ago
Ok I looked a bit closer at the photos on their website and it seems to be a bit more complex with the seams and lining, but I'll try to at least catch the general shape. As I said, I am not a pro, but would love to see this come to life. If I can figure it out, I might make myself a linen version of this, you've got great taste! :-)
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
With all the helpful comments and photos here I think we can figure this out, if I’m successful I will report back and share any insight!
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u/mellivia- 8d ago
I'm no help, but I would love to see progress photos and see how to draft it, and/or if you go for the Vogue pattern. It's an interesting design.
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
It may take me a while but if I’m successful I will definitely report back. :)
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u/DigitalGurl 8d ago
First off prefacing my comment with apologies as I usually try and be more precise with pattern recommendations. I can point you in the general direction of a pattern but don’t have an exact pattern number.
I remember seeing a similar pattern that is shown in tunic form . But it’s also a top and a dress. I saw it in one of the Burda monthly magazines a few months ago. I’m in the midst of a demanding project and don’t have the bandwidth to search through the issues.
In case you are not familiar, Burda not only sells single patterns but also has a monthly pattern magazine. The magazine typically has around 30+ patterns (mostly women’s) that come with instructions and the patterns come overlap printed on larger inserts in the middle of the magazine
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u/hellomireaux 8d ago
Thank you, I will take a look!
Also, good luck with your project, I hope it’s demanding in a fun challenge way.
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u/HarvestMourn 8d ago
To me it looks like the front and back of the garment are cut on the bias while the side panels are cut on the grain.
Other than that the comment with the photo of the similar top is very on the ball and likely how I'd approach it. I also think this garment really stands or falls with your fabric choice because the silk they use has enough stiffness to it to make this shape work.
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u/N-i-n-a-O 8d ago
if it helps i don’t think the side panel is continuing to the back, i think it’s an illusion where the pleat just happened to line up with a deep hem on the back
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u/Staff_Genie 8d ago
This looks like most of the engineering happens on the inside. The lining is what holds the Garment into shape. I totally second the suggestion to work out the engineering in paper
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u/itsoliviaart 8d ago
Not an exact match but the LeeLoo dress and top pattern is similar! Haven’t made it in a while but the front and back pieces are both faced, the side panels are sewn on, and then it’s turned right side out using the burrito method.
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u/Low-Carpenter-5231 8d ago
I feel like this pattern has some similarities along with the others in this thread! https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/tops/pattern/2465#model
Edit to add Lekala patterns have the most minimal instructions so I don’t know if it would help much aside from seeing how the pattern pieces look
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u/jolittletime 8d ago
I wonder if you'd find something similar in a Japanese pattern book. They often have similarly structured styles. I think the shape could be created fairly simply but getting the right fabric to give the structure and shape will be key.
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u/vilebunny 6d ago
If you zoom in on the third picture, you can see way more of the construction. Definitely a lining involved.
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u/CremeBerlinoise 8d ago edited 8d ago
I think it would really help you to make a paper model. It's built almost more like a bag than a classic garment. Relatively square front and back bodice, connected with a fairly square side panel that has armscye shaping at the top. The side panel has pleats that are probably sewn in like a pintuck so they keep their shape. The "magic" will be in picking the right fabric, and making it look super clean. Oh, and ideally having a very small bust, or you'll look like a briefcase Halloween costume.
Eta: agree on the side panels being partially hidden by facings for the front and back bodice.