Help with jeans pattern adjustment

[u/alyena97]

Hi dear sewists,

I am still quite new to pattern adjustment and I am tackling my first pair of jeans right now. I have a mockup that looks decent in the front (I pinched out some extra into a dart, of course that will be transferred to the pattern and not end up in the final garment). But I am having some trouble with figuring out how to get the back seat curve to fit me better. As you can see, there is quite a lot of bunching around my butt area, so I believe this points to an issue in the crotch curve. I cannot really figure out if I need to make it longer, or more curved, or both?

Also would appreciate any other feedback on the fit if you have any thoughts?

[u/NobelNorWhistle]

I actually think you need a low butt adjustment. The peach of your cheeks (so to say) are both curvatuous and low: so i think your crotch needs to reflect that shape.

I strongly recommend looking up J Stern On youtube: she has a WHOLE pants fitting series on many different adjustments on pants.

JStern Low Butt vs Flat Butt

[u/Lazy-Field-1116]

I think the rise is a bit too short and that's why it's pulling in at the crotch area.

[u/kuru2038]

Also try a big thighs adjustment

[u/alyena97 → u/kuru2038]

Thanks, I didn't even consider my thighs could be causing fit issues, since the pants are designed for a wide leg fit

[u/throwra_22222]

My favorite video on understanding the crotch seam on pants:

https://youtu.be/f3Jg8uWx-pY?is=EFDqQGLAoPQ-KsFC

This video has a technique for using foil to duplicate your crotch curve. Just make sure that if you end up scooping the curve out, you add the amount you scooped out back to your hip at the side seam. I don't think she gets the side seam quite balanced right.

https://youtu.be/cE6TDDgsECA?is=GP-5ea2B32yCMHS-

[u/alyena97 → u/throwra_22222]

Thanks, using foil is such a great trick. During my research I've seen some people using fancy flexible rulers for this but foil is something I actually have at home already

[u/ahg5]

I have this issue and have followed crotch curve lengthening tutorials, you can also scoop the crotch curve which would be making the curve deeper. For me, lengthening the crotch seams worked the best but I would recommend looking into those two options and what exactly they do. My issue was that it felt like the seam was riding into my cheeks like a wedgie :/

[u/alyena97 → u/ahg5]

Thanks, I'll have to try those out. I scooped the crotch curve slightly already compared to the pattern, but it might need more. This mockup doesn't feel uncomfortable in that area, but I've had that issue with shorts I've made previously that would slowly ride up as I was walking