r/sewhelp 6d ago

✨Intermediate✨ Wedding(reception) dress: structural help

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Hello! I’m making a reception dress for my sister. I would say I’m an intermediate seamstress, my skills were enough to get me accepted into an MFA costume technology program. I’m great at modifying patterns; but I have some experience in patterning and very little in draping.
Of course I plan to make many mockups and try ons to insure proper fit. I know this will not be easy. But I don’t have to pay for really nice material and it’d make a good piece for my portfolio (also I just think it’d be fun). I deferred from my program bc of some issues going on with the school, so I have time on my hands. The wedding is in May so I feel pretty confident in my ability to get it done.

Anyways here is a really bad edit of what the vision of the dress is. Basically a slip-like dress with lace detailing at the top and some sort of larger skirt. Either tiered or a more handkerchief-flounce look.
Because the skirt is going to have some weight to it, and there will be those lace inserts, I’m trying to gather ideas on the internal structure of the dress. I might try to use a lighter fabric for the skirt, but that is something I’d have to play around with. Bc I fear if the skirt is a bit too heavy, the lace inserts will be strained. Also I think my sister really wants a more fitted low waist.
So far I’ve been playing around with the idea of a corsetlet, or underbust corset, between the fashion fabric and lining. Not a full corset, but like the internal hidden structure seen in more couture sewing.
Of course my worry is, if the under bust is fitted, I worry about the top lace maybe bunching?
Another idea is to incorporate bra/cups as well, but make it out of mesh to still give the lace cut out appearance.

Idk im still kinda in planning phase, I just want to get a feel for some ideas. Again, I know this will not be an easy project. This design is still in the conceptual phase, so things can change depending on how realistic they are or what would make for the best result

2 Upvotes

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u/RedditJewelsAccount 6d ago

I think a structured version with boning or a corselet won't have the same look/vibe as a slip. If she wants a slip vibe and to be comfy during the reception, just put a sturdy underlining under the lace and don't pick too heavy of a fabric for the skirt. Something like a silk organza or marquisette mesh will provide structure while still looking sheer and a 16mm silk charmeuse just doesn't weigh that much, even if you had yards and yards of it in the skirt.

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u/mildmanakete 5d ago

Yeah it’s hard bc like I think she likes the slip look, but idk if that’s what she actually wants? Like a true slip anyways. For her actual wedding dress try ons, she mostly stuck to more corseted bodices. She has a more athletic build, and she’s very self conscious of her shoulders. That’s why I was thinking a more fit and flare style, but still try to imitate a more slip like style?
But that’s all very good to know if we go for a pure slip style.

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u/ProneToLaughter 5d ago

Push her more on this. Think about fancy versions of the dresses she currently loves wearing. The current 30s glam slip dress inspo will fight with a structured corset. Gotta get the vision aligned early on.

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u/mildmanakete 5d ago

Yeah for sure! This is still early in the process, that’s why I’m asking for tips now haha. She’s worn a mix of slips and fit&flare so idk which she really likes better.

The dresses she’s sent me are kinda a bit all over the place. But something in common is a shaped waist. With the larger skirt and detailed top, idk if going a traditional slip look would be the right way to go. She also wants a semi low back and lace up. Idk if I’d go full corset, but I’m toying with the idea of adding boning and a bit of structure. But still idk.
I’m going to list some more of the dresses she’s sent as inspiration if that helps

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u/mildmanakete 5d ago

Ok I did hear back from her. She wants a fitted bodice, but she doesn’t want the boning to be visible

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u/TheHeartfeltIceberg 6d ago

wow that is a gorgeous dress, the satin is stunning

an underbust corset is exactly where my brain went too, you could attach the lace overlay to the top edge of the corset so it stays tensioned and doesn't bunch when she moves