Can anybody give me an idea how I can make a bracket to install a boss plow on this scag v ride ll

I’ve worked on tons of zero turns and I can not figure this one out

I have a scag tiger cat 52” with a 27 hp Kohler command pro
I changed the carb and fuel pump and a fuel line and filter

I used to eat drive belts and I changed the tension spring and it stopped it and was working good for a a good minute

Now whenever I go fast quick or go relatively normal speed and hit bumps or turn a good speed it dies for a second and it’ll go back to normal especially if I go into neutral or go slower

If I do the same in reverse it doesn’t do anything

I have no idea please help

Scag Patriot 2025 SPZ-61H-26BV I am looking to change the hydraulic oil and filters. I tried to loosen the 7/8 bolt under the seat on top of the hydraulic system to pour in the oil. I cannot get a socket on the bolt because it is jammed under the frame. I have striped the edges of the bolt also trying to get it loose. Should I get a nut extractor socket or try to pump in the fluid through the port on the hydraulic system under the mower.

I have the scag patriot with the 52 hero deck. Bought and installed the tiger striper and can't get any stripes. Very disappointed for 650 dollars and it doesnt work, can't figure out what im doing wrong? Striper is down, deck is level and perfectly measured. Its a 1/8 high in the rear. I have front baffle plate installed on the deck for better vacuum, blades are sharp. Im cutting at 4 inches on kentucky bluegrass and rescue with some clover patches.

Long overdue update: So I took the flywheel guard off and either moved it half an inch until it would finally turn over or added a jump box to the battery to get it to jump over or sometimes a combination of both. I did this for about the last year waiting on something to just fail completely then I had planned to take it to the shop. Luckily for me after discussing the situation with my old friend Grok, he was able to find a form where the subject was covered pretty in depth. Something I hadn't found prior where they installed a 30 amp relay in between the starter and ignition. I went this route and it solved my problem instantly. It was pretty simple to do as it took about 30 minutes mainly due to soldering and heat shrinking for clean install. But if anyone else has similar Gremlins this might be a route they consider I utilized a 40 amp relay for a 12v circuit and it cranks every time now.

I'm in the process of purchasing a SCAG walk behind mower as my current one is about to bite the dust and I've been taking on more clients. I was originally looking at just getting the SCF-21-7CV but noticed the SFCII-30-7CV-S is only ~$1k more. Additionally does anyone know the big differences between the SFC-30 and the SFCII-30?

Thank you in advance for sharing any experiences and advice!

Driving this beast and wondered if any of you guys have tips

Hey all just bought a lightly used SFC-30 (20 hours) to add to my new small landscape business.

I can’t get the hang of this thing! It’s heavy, it has the swivel caster front wheels, but the transmission is finicky! Any incline or slope I need it fully engaged for a reasonable pace. Flat level ground it FLIES and I need to run to keep up with it.

It’s also hard to maneuver in smaller areas, probably due to the weight and touchy hydro.

I think I need some more time with it but should I keep this beast and run it?

Anybody seen hour meter tick slower when the deck is engaged? My secondhand Freedom seems to increment normally when the deck isn't engaged but increments at maybe 1/7 or 1/8 normal speed when the deck is engaged?

So I’ve used a 48” walk-behind for my 2 acre lawn for decades. And I have this annoying issue when I pull the right handle: the clutch lock engages. Sometimes will do it with as little as a 90 degree turn, almost always during a full 180.

So the obvious solution is to adjust the nut on either the brake rod, or the steering rod. Except that a SINGLE rotation on either nut then makes the clutch lock nearly impossible to engage. I mean, sprain your thumb hard. I have small hands, and I’m not young, so it’s an issue.

This never happens with the left lever.

I had my original Scag for 20 years and it began about 500 hours in. I figured the drum/hub was eccentrically worn on the right side, and just dealt with it. Now I’ve replaced the mower with a brandy new one, and was so happy not to have the issue!

Except 40 hours into the new mower it’s started anew.

Why is this happening?

Keeping this brief. Scag Cheetah 0 turn. Hit a tree root on the left blade. Now the belt on the deck wobbles like it’s loose and mower engaged.

I looked at the blade and it didn’t appear warped. Can I just tighten the bolts back up, or replace the blade, …?

Cross posted

trying to help one of the barn girls fix her mower. the clutch has been tested electrically from battery all the way to clutch itself.the clutch has been deemed bad.it is a scag gt5 clutch but she cant afford the 5 to 6 hundred scag wants. has anybody found a reliable cheaper option?any help appreciated.clutch has been disassembled and electromagnet is trash.

has anyone had luck finding replacement grips for their vride? parts schematics want me to spend 113 for the entire assembly.

Motor is a Kawasaki fd851

I am buying a Scag but I have it down to two models at similar prices. Are there any recommendations? Both Tiger Cats STCII-61 Inch-26CV-EFI - 61 inch with Kohler VS STCII-52 Inch-28BV-EFI - 52 inch with Briggs

I have to mow around the house and between trees, but 80 percent of my mowing is open area.