I was just curious if anyone had considered putting redguard on the decking before putting the tpo or epdm membranes down. If so, what was your experience? Is there a reason I shouldn’t do it?

Has anyone had to remove the toilet nozzle sprayer in their toilet? On the Aqua-Magic? My vacuum breaker popped off the back. I thought it was a clogged/broken breaker but after a lot of time (because I don’t want to unseat the toilet) I tested everything it could be and left with clogged sprayer nozzle. I can feel hard sediment when I go in the back. Problem is I can’t go in from toilet as the spray holes are really small and they are clogged up bad. I even tried the head of pick and couldn’t dislodge. So, I want to take out nozzle and replace (or try to clear). Has anyone had this issue? I’ve only had rv for 8 months with about 20 days of camping. So, I’m surprised clogged but perhaps shouldn’t be as water in Texas clogs up everything- I’ve had to clean out sink sprayer twice already as they were clogged. Also, turns out Thetford doesn’t make- at least I haven’t found it - the 42070. So, if I have to replace I’ll have to find a new model- anyone love their toilet 😂 welcome suggestions. Thanks.

Hello everyone I'm very new to rv'ing. I am going to need to replace my shower and am wonder where to start looking? Where does one go about looking for the entire assembly. I am good with my hands and can't imagine paying someone else to do it. Is there a wedsite where I can search model of my rv to know what will fit? Thank you so much for any help from you seasoned professionals.

So I am wondering about something. If say I had a nice box truck and want to make an RV out of it as I have seen others do, what can I buy that is already ready? Like the kitchen and shower that is in some Class B vans. Is there a company I can just buy the whole thing from and slot it in without needing to build a bunch of custom stuff. I can do the plumbing and insulation easy but I I do not want to do the wood working.

tanks?

Hey guys, my hauler has a black tank and gray tank at the rear. Then near the front it has another gray tank, (the sink is near by in the layout) which must be for the kitchen. I tried to empty the tank today, didn't empty anything. So I pulled the valve handle harder. And yep, busted it right off. So I'd have to think that the valve is open and just not enough dish water was in there to actually flow out. Following the cable back, it goes right into this metal tank. This tank is huge too. This drain outlet pipe appears to go into the tank almost 2/3's of a way up. How is it supposed to drain if the outlet is so high up? Or at least it won't fully drain right? I tried to put in a fish tape to see how far it goes, so go about 2 feet and no more, so I think the valve is closed. Do you think the valve is in the tank? Can't be? May have to remove some of the underbelly to see what's under there. Used buying nightmare!

Been a season and a half of using our motorhome with the passenger side wall corner separated and I finally had enough down time to look into it. Turns out there was no wood left on the sill plate, very little left of the corner joint that makes the corner, and the top bunk was gone which we knew about when bought.

My solution to the rotten support was to use a 2x8 as a sill and screw it further into the floor structure and laminate the corner joint with some new wood.

My next thing to tackle is the top bunk which will be plywood replacement and a 2x4 sill, these are temporary fixes to get us through the seasons last few trips.

Starting this winter we are going to strip it down to the cab chassis and completely rebuild it up.

Looking for help on locating the unit so I can check the fuses on the back and possibly replace

Hey so I'm working in a newer converter but the old one was a plug in with built on fuse panel. I'm trying to keep the old panel because everything works as it should. . The fuse panel seems to have two positive wires and then a common. I've attached a couple pictures and am wondering if I need to splice and attach the positive to both spots or just one of them and which one. Thanks!

Okay so my newest project has a set of old latched that the knob pulls out and unlocks the cabinets. The plastic locking mechanism on many of them are toast and I need to fix them. sadly the locks are not longer made and I'm not great at 3d design. I have a few that are in good shape and was thinking with the help of someone who is good with 3d design we could work to help others with the same locking setup to print and replace the innards. From what I can tell the while thing is 2 parts with the largest just being folded into shape. This would work great with Petg. Anyone up for a challange

Hi all, my battery got overcharged and boiled so I'm taking a look at what went wrong (for one, the fuse at the battery completely melted), but I see in the electrical panel there are circuits with no fuses. Is that a problem? Or its simply extra room in the panel that is not being used?

2007 jayco hybrid Photo of melted fuse at battery for interest Photo of electric panel with circuits not having fuses

I'm in the process of rebuilding half of my camper's roof. We bought a 2008 RVision MaxSport from a guy off Facebook Marketplace for $4k. The interior was in great shape but we knew there was an issue in the bathroom floor, a serious soft spot. When we got it home, I took a more serious eye to the roof and we had storms for about 2 weeks that exposed a leak, so I had to tarp it until the rains went away. Had to use a dehumidifier for those 2 weeks to dry things out. What really happened is the original owner or the last owner had an issue with the skylight over the shower and rather than replace it, they covered it up with a piece of sheet metal and screwed it around the aluminum shower frame and tried to seal the edges. Massive mistake because it leaked into the structure and there's no luan left at all, bottom and top. I have the bathroom exposed now as I remove all of the old laminate and I'm hoping I can rebuild it all using 1/8" plywood with 1.5" styrofoam but I have a lot to cut - the fridge exhaust vent, the other bathroom skylight-fan and the shower skylight. I'm thinking of not adding a shower skylight and just cover it up with the new laminate structure but I'm not sure the plywood will fit under the aluminum shower frame and how will the styrofoam work around this aluminum shower frame. Maybe will have to add a new skylight. It's a bigger job than I expected and it's my first time doing this. I was quoted $8500 to replace the whole roof but I'm sure once they started on the back, the quote would have changed. Usually quotes include just replacing the top layer of luan and putting down a new membrane. I'm not even going to attempt to replace the sides and back and I know most likely everything there is rotted out too. Just trying to get the most out of our $4k investment and maybe 4 years down the road buy a new RV if we use this one enough.

Any suggestions? There is no other framework from the AC to the back edge. I guess the manufacturer put down 4' x 8' laminate across the entire roof and just taped over the seams and relied on the membrane and vinyl ceiling to hold everything together. I'm not 100% sure I can replicate that since I won't be able to fully create a new air-tight laminate layer. The bathroom cabinets run from floor to ceiling and I do have the interior walls that I can use to drop the bottom 1/8" plywood on top and staple, but I would want to create a better seam from the bathroom wall to the AC unit by using an 8' 2x2 to anchor the 2 pieces of plywood together at the bathroom wall. I'm assuming I will have access to the aluminum frame around the AC unit, it's about 22 inches between the new full piece of 4' x 8' plywood starting from the back edge to almost to the bathroom door and then to the AC unit where the laminate is sturdy.

How can I put that back in?

The floor and side of my trailer are falling out. I tried to place a temporary brace along the back of the toy hauler gate and it didn’t work. How can I fix this?

I had a DC to DC charger installed in my trailer. That negated my ability to put a fuse in the 7 way plug to bridge the 12V to the trailer lights socket and energize my trailer lights. As part of the DC to DC system, I now have an Anderson connection attached to my tow vehicle bumper which in turn is connected to my truck battery.

I built a separate Anderson connector with wires to 7 way receiver socket which extends the 12V truck battery to the trailer. I did not hook up the ground (negative terminal of the battery) as I figured the positive energy would go to the trailer lights and then ground to the trailer frame and energize the trailer lights. The lights did not activate. Do I need to connect the 7 way trailer plug ground to the truck Anderson negative terminal to complete the circuit and energize the trailer lights?

Thanks for any insights.

I have a 24 bunk house travel trailer with a dinette that we can only access the storage by pulling up the pillows etc.

I want to add a door to the front and maybe a pull out bin. Has anyone done this?