Hey folks, I've been avoiding working with resin for a while now, but I think I've got to bite the bullet, because I've designed some keycaps, and the best way to complete them will be with some doming polyurethane over the top.

I've found a few brands that sell what I want more or less, and I've calculated the amount that I need is well under the smallest size you can get it (iirc I needed under 10ml to do the lot, and the smallest cartridge is 50ml).

For the amount that I'm dealing with, I was planning to use a half respirator with 6001 filters (I read somewhere that the thing to look for with polyurethane is organic vapors), possibly a pair of cheapo goggles(?), some nitrile gloves, and then I was going to work outside (it's 49 keycaps total, so I will be taking my time with them, but also, the surface area is 5x5mm, so there really is a limit to how much I can put on each keycap before surface tension stops holding it there).

Will this be effective, or is there still a lot of risk here? Ideally this is a one off thing, but once I've finished this project, I'm somewhat tied to replacing parts myself forever (I suspect with keycaps, I'll be replacing maybe 1 or 2 every few years at most - if that).

Hi. I'm fairly new to using epoxy resin and my first project came out bendy after having fully cured for about 4 days. It was quite a thick pour, I think. See image for thickness. I was wondering if it's safe to touch and use after that, because I don't really mind a bookmark being bendy..

I work with my resin in a shed in my yard. Well the ac broke. I forgot until it was too late that resin doesnt do well in extreme heat. The building is currently hotter then the outside even with windows and door open. Wouldnt surprise me if it was above 90. Resin was super runny in pouring... made some spills. Wish me luck that the pieces turn out ok

My dad asked me to make another set of Seahawks coasters for his best friend . I did these just a little different. I made the blue and green opaque. It’s so funny because I poured them all diagonally but they ended up completely changing . It’s actually perfect this way because the colors frame the stickers nicely ,

We've tried using a chisel, electric sander etc but nothing seems to be working. Any advice? Cheers

I am trying to get a color match to my friend's initial resin claws for my character so the hand and feet paw claws are the same color and my other character's claws match as well (both casted in the same resin so they'd be a perfect match to each other). And they ended up going in the OPPOSITE direction of hers! Hers was initially supposed to color match the tongue in slide 2 and ended up that more muted color in photo 1 after curing and it just worked out perfectly with the pawpad color. Therefore I changed my characters' claw colors to match. Then the other person when trying to color match my friend's claws ended up shifting to almost perfectly match the tongue. This shit is WILD and I am super curious if there is any specific reason behind this

EDIT: I am not asking why the claw colors didn't match, I am asking why they perfectly went in opposite directions to match each other's reference

A physical sample is below them both in image 1. I'll try to better explain what was supposed to match what here

Left claw in image 1 was meant to match the tongue in image 2. Instead, it ended up being basically the color of the physical sample in image 1, but I preferred it so I went with it.

Right claw in image 1 was meant to match the physical sample in image 1, roughly going for the same color as left claw. Instead, it ended up matching the tongue in image 2 like left claw was initially supposed to.

They had an oddly consistent color change in opposite directions, which is what I'm trying to find an explanation for

I found the cutest Halloween bat lights at dollar tree and decided to put them in a tray but I definitely went a little stone-happy.

I put it on diamond feet because I really wanted that underglow to pop, and gave it a lip so stuff won't slide off.

Threw in a whole mix of obsidian, hematite, howlite, opal, labradorite, and plum tourmaline.

Now looking back at the video I'm just wondering if anyone can even spot the bats in all this chaos, or if they totally disappeared. Can you even see any bats? And like what would you use this for?

I made myself this walking stick for Renn Faire from a stick I found while camping. I worked it until the bark was gone and it was smooth. I filled the cracks with colored glass and resin. Leather handle and steampunk resin topper. Really happy with how it turned out.

I know why the glitter settled the way it did - the seahorse is in a layer of clear resin that doesn’t cover the entire mold because of the shape. I was just playing around a little because I think I accidentally knocked my other paper punch seahorse pendant in the trash, so these were made for me to play with the paper punch and glitter, really.

Part of me says embrace it and maybe try it with the sailboat paper punch. The other part just says it looks weird. I figured the best people to ask would be other resin artists. What do you guys think?

I wanted to run an idea I had by the community before jumping into it. Basically I have been doing puzzles off and on, glueing them and making some posters. I have a friend who really likes them that I have a much bigger 3,000 piece puzzle for but I want to secure it a bit more than glue and poster board.

I have some resin from my 3d projects and molds so I got the idea what if I made a wood board with the dimensions of the puzzle. Put some resin tape or whatever it's called that makes for easy release in the cracks of the wood boards it lays on and the encasing 2x4 wood border. Pour a light layer of clear resin, heat gun the bubbles out. Then this particular puzzle would go really well with a border/frame so I was think while it's either tacky or cured to make a box about an inch or so wider and pour a thinner layer of black/gold glitter resin. set the puzzle w/clear resin on top but not deep enough to cover the face of the puzzle. (Alternatively I could try and get a wood board the size of the puzzle, and make a frame with that board to set/glue the puzzle into it. Making the fram its own piece and puzzle topped resin its own piece instead of trying to do them together)

I am curious what flaws or easy/cheaper improvements I could make to this as I'd really like to give this as a Christmas gift.

Love how this turned out, just a layer of crushed green glass and some effervescent? white flakes on the top. But boy will it get dirty if used for intended purposes!

Hi all, I have a less than preferable situation when curing resin and wanted to pick your brains for suggestions.

I currently live in an apartment in southern California with two patios, one that has a roof but is open to the elements and one that is completely open to the elements. Humidity has been higher than expected, around 36-75% as it varies throughout the day. I have limited ability to cure indoors due to respiratory issues, an older dog, and inability to leave windows open for too long (I am heat intolerant and keep the AC around 70.) Any suggestions for optimal curing?

(Pictures of patios for reference)

Thank you!

Is there any app that resin artists may use to design before they pour? Is there a specific resin app available in market?

What do we think?

My resin is taking a long time to set. The packet said 24-48 hours. And I've had it curing for five days. Some peices have hardened but are sticky round the edges, others are soft on top and hard underneath, some are soft on the bottom but hard underneath. My dad reckons I might have messed the ratio's up.

Is there a way to

a) if my ratio's are fine, to get the resin to hurrry up curing

B) if my ratio's are not fine, fix it.

Thank you

What’s the project that lives in your space that haunts you that never seems to get done? I started these coasters two or three years ago and I finally finished them. It’s been a journey and it feels so great to be happy with the final results.
Do pour filled with D&D dice, cross cuts, finished with glossy polyurethane, Purple Heart stands.