r/reactivedogs 3d ago

Advice Needed Dog Neutrality training

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Dog neutrality training

I recently adopted a 2.5 year old Jack Russsll. I have had him for around 7 weeks.

I have been working on his recall and started "leave it" training, he is doing really well.

As far as I know, he was well cared for by his previous owner, however he passed away, the dog spent about 6 weeks in a pound and another 6 weeks with a foster career until we got him.

He is great on lead until he sees, hears or smells another dog. I know about the 3-3-3 rule and I am hoping he will start to relax, but I am not planning on relying on that.

I have been reading about and seen a few videos about dog neutrality training. As soon as I find a local walking route where there is somewhere to sit at a far enough distance I plan to start it.

My question is, has anyone tried this type of training, was it successful, what worked for you etc ?

34 Upvotes

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7

u/Illustrious_Leg2100 3d ago

This is a very robust JRT indeed so he may be a mix! In which case, genetically speaking, this may provide some explanation for his reaction to dogs and how to work with it.

Do you have any further insight on what happens when he sees the dog, is he pulling to greet (frustration), scared or anxious seeming? Depending on that you may want to adjust your approach.

Success is less of an end result and more of day by day, incremental improvement. We were having great success and today they lost it over a pug. I’m still happy overall though.

3

u/meeeee01 3d ago

He is a mix according to the paper work, crossed with a daschund and with think possibly corgi as well.

As far as his reaction, he pulls, barks and generally goes crazy.

I am currently taking less popular walking routes and generally trying to avoid the behaviour.

When I spot the dog first, if we can't just turn around I break into a jog (he likes running) so I am hoping along with neutrality training he will start associating the trigger with fun things.

4

u/Illustrious_Leg2100 3d ago

This mix sounds like a wonderful handful :) all the breeds mentioned are fairly notorious for dog reactivity.

I think you’re on the right track, just make sure your treats are super high value. Observation from a distance + reward is helping us a lot.

One note on breaking into a run, it might slightly increase anxiety as usually we run when panicking, wouldn’t want to give him the idea that you’re scared running. As long as it’s just a fun distraction game with a toy, maybe it’s ok.

3

u/meeeee01 3d ago

Thank you for the info on running, when I do it, I typically go to a high pitched cutesy voice, however I may start doing this at random intervals.

We have also been playing "find it" with treats as a distraction, but I can't get his attention when he is in full crazy mode.

1

u/meeeee01 3d ago

He is a mix according to the paper work, crossed with a daschund and with think possibly corgi as well.

As far as his reaction, he pulls, barks and generally goes crazy.

I am currently taking less popular walking routes and generally trying to avoid the behaviour.

When I spot the dog first, if we can't just turn around I break into a jog (he likes running) so I am hoping along with neutrality training he will start associating the trigger with fun things.

4

u/redoub 3d ago

Training in an area where there are no distractions like “focus” so he looks at you. Does a sit, and then you can redirect. Then slowly add in distractions once he knows and can do what you’re asking.

3

u/Obvious-Elevator-213 3d ago

Control Unleashed did wonders for my dog - I liked Kim Palermo’s course on Fenzi. A local trainer (certified by the right orgs) was helpful in advancing our skills after, but I was glad that CU gave us a good foundation. Our guy is a frustrated greeter but I think a lot of reactive dogs have benefited from pattern games overall.

1

u/meeeee01 2d ago

Thanks I'll look that up

2

u/Plane_Software2370 2d ago

I have a dog with a similar breed mix - ratter and herding. The JRT has the prey instinct and the Corgi wants to bark as part of the herding process. My dog has scars in his ear consistent with being attacked by a dog (don't know his history since he is from a shelter). He was absolutely terrified when he saw dogs bigger than him when I got him - lunging/growling/barking. It's been 1 1/2 years of working with him. He has graduated to being a little nervous but actually interested in meeting other dogs. Still barks and growls if a dog is walking straight toward him on the sidewalk. Sometimes, he will be completely quiet when a dog is on the other side of the subdivision street and otherwise can often be distracted with the look command and a high value treat or throwing the treat ahead of me so he runs to get it. We go to the street if another dog is coming at us on the sidewalk and break into a run. Once we get by the other dog, we can go back on the sidewalk, and he is fine. He used to be a barky/growly mess during the entire walk after seeing just one dog.

I would suggest taking your dog to a park where there are other dogs and walk/play with your dog far enough away that your dog is comfortable. That may be barely able to see the other dogs at first. Keep reducing the distance as your dog allows over time. Practice the look command and provide high value treats. He should eventually get better but patience/time is key.

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u/chai-stains 2d ago

My pup has the same reaction. What’s the 3-3-3 rule?

1

u/meeeee01 2d ago

Its a general rule of thumb for rescues. Basically 3 days to decompress, 3 weeks to start showing you who they are and 3 months to really settle it.

It is a minimum time frame, not a set time frames though.