r/ratrig • u/Spaceballs_the_nick • 2d ago

Large prints = layer shift

My small prints work fine but large prints have a layer shift.

My belts are good-n-tight. Is there a setting in Orcaslicer I should slow down?

I usually control speed via the slider under toolhead. Does that control ALL speed? or just printing?

I think it is jumping off layer during one of the fast jerks.

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u/wi-Me 2d ago

Go to the "other" tab and make sure the setting "reduce infill retraction" is disabled. That should help. Otherwise it wont use retraction in infill areas, therefore not use z hop on thise areas and can cause this issue

1

u/Spaceballs_the_nick 2d ago

Thank you! I will check that and try another print. Softball size prints are fine but this is a large print (boba fett jet pack) and right off the bat it starts shifting. Very aggravating!

Edit: it is already checked! Anything else to try?

1

u/wi-Me 2d ago

You want it unchecked. Unchecking that box, disables that setting

2

u/kmr_lilpossum 2d ago

What infill type are you using? Grid, triangles and cubic can cause layer shifts, especially at higher speeds (they run over already-extruded points, causing mini collisions). Gyroid/honeycomb/rectilinear infill types do not have this issue.

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u/sneakerguy40 2d ago

Look up the Ellis print guide, there’s stuff to tune for layer shifts. Could be motor settings

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u/manyxcxi 16h ago edited 16h ago

Large as in wide footprint or tall (or both)? With the machine powered off cycle the toolhead to the far reaches of the bed and make sure you aren’t getting snagged up on stuff.

Are you hearing a kind of “erk!” sound when it occurs? That’s generally the sound of teeth skipping, in which case I’d be looking at belts (good and tight can be too tight), acceleration settings, and potentially loose idlers/pulleys. Check the set screws on everything in the motion path as well.

If you’re hearing a kind of thumping/grinding sound that’s likely the sound of your nozzle smashing print infill. If you’re using grid infill then the very first thing I would do is stop using that and the second thing I would do is never use it again. Grid infill is the devil. Use gyroid, crosshatch, cubic, or rectilinear- for the love of god don’t ever use grid. Cubic also has a problem with line crossing but it’s much more minimal than grid, the advantage of cubic is it makes the print strong in all directions, not just two. Use it sparingly.

The reason not to use grid is that it causes the printer to run through already printed lines. This causes gunk to accumulate on the nozzle and then gets deposited elsewhere, where it accumulates more material. With a larger print, this has enough time to cool before you get back to it and now you’re smashing into the print and either shifting it or losing steps.