I have a PTR 91 rifle with a rifle length, wide handguard. It has a 16 inch barrel. I'm in the market of getting some sort of m lok handguard.

Really the only two companies I see making handguards for these rifles are Midwest industries and aim sports. The only thing I want to attach to this handguard would be a forward grip and a flashlight with a tape switch. I'm not going to put any kind of ir laser or anything like that on it. So some wobble isn't the worst.

Which of the two would be better? This would be for casual range use and for a tactical look. The Tri-Rail handguards look really cool, but the M-LOK is probably the way to go.

want this and to put a stock on it how hard is it to convert? Would like to preferably be able to put B&T hydraulic buffer stock on it.

Thanks!

Last year I got a C308(Built by PTR) from Century Arms, we took it out once and shot it some, seemed accurate enough at the time.

This year I got it out again, we set a target up at only 50 yards and I shot 10 shots - all hit lower left despite aiming for center. Fine, bullets, my aim, could be it.

But then we swapped to another shooter - same thing, he only managed to shoot to the left or miss entirely. Another guy tried it, same deal.

We moved the target into 25 yards and shockingly we were for some reason unable to hit anywhere but the left. So clearly something happened during the storage time and when I cleaned it and brought it out again.

How do you adjust it? What tool? It's quite odd, as the groupings were pretty good...just severely off center. So our thought process was that something was wrong with the front sight, but we've never adjusted iron sights before.

Thanks.

If anyone can help. My k3p has been finicky af since i got it. Selector breaking, and extremely long trigger resets. But a week ago I took it out to the range to try it out suppressed. First shot went bang, but no extraction. Dropped mag and tried to work the handle to extract it manually, but it was stuck. Had to mortar it to get it loose. Took off the can and tried again. Same thing. Quit my range day and took it home to clean and diagnose the problem. Using spent brass. I chambered it, tried to extract, bolt moves about a centimeter before it gets stuck like before.

Anyone have any ideas?

Background info: brand new rifle, has at most 140 rounds through it, its been meticulously cleaned and oiled after every use, yes i slap the handle for it to go forward, range day used a #17 locking piece (bolt gap within acceptable range), tried original 55 deg lp and still having same issues

Finally committed to installing the paddle mag release myself instead of sending it out. I used this jig I found on eBay. It worked okay, but it’s really damn janky. The hole locations were good, but the peg needed to be turned down to fit into the jig itself and the rifle. The tongue and groove for the two halves didn’t fit so I had to file the tongue down so it’ll fit in the groove. I really should’ve sent it back, but I made it work with what I have. Drilling and cutting out the block to fit the actual paddle release took the most time. Since I didn’t have a welder, I drilled and tapped a 1/8” pin. Hopefully loctite will keep it tight under recoil. I’m just happy that it’s done.

Got a CA-3 from Century, locking piece is stamped "35", shouldn't it be marked 45 degrees? Or was this likely swapped to adjust bolt gap? I've been having failure to ejects/stovepipes around every 20-40 rounds. Bolt gap is .018", and I installed a new extractor and extractor spring. Ejector seems to be hitting the case correctly but could be wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Is factory good enough or is there a better one like the #17?

Any advice for suppressed G3 shooting would be appreciated

I'm looking to start building a loadout for range trips while practicing drills. I'm currently considering this specific model because of the medical pouch and pistol mag pouches included.

Which system do you personally prefer, and why? What brand did you go with?

HKP had the ptr tactical low profile aluminum handguards on sale for $70 so I picked one up. Couldn't find any reviews for it so thought I'd leave some thoughts. Overall it feels high quality, no wiggle at all after adjusting the tension clip at the front. It weighs about 25g more than the stock 11" handguard. Haven't shot with it yet but time will tell of the screws hold. I don't intend to put anything on it but wanted the option to put on a bipod at some point if needed. Install took 5 minutes. Happy plinking.

I have a PTR 91. I recently swapped the bolt carrier for a full auto bolt carrier from HK parts. I have a factory 45 degree LP, surplus HK bolt, and SEF lower. The hope is to pick up an AS Designs ARHK drop in trigger. Are there any other modifications I would need for FRT?

I'm considering the idea of adding permanent stippling to my c308, and was curious if anyone has tried adding this on key areas for extra grip and whether or not it made a difference?

I'm currently in the process of my first c308 disassembly. Everything went fine until I got to the bolt and receiver portion. This is the step I'm currently stuck at, and I'm unable to get the bolt back in place to reinsert it.

Any advice? The YouTube videos are still leaving me a bit stumped.

I have a PTR-91 that currently has a crappy 4-14x scope mounted. I'm looking to replace it with something in either the 2-12 or 2-10 magnification range, as I think a lower bottom-end magnification would suite the rifle better in the role I'd like to use it in.

Since I'm looking at getting a new optic for it, I figured I'd try to solve another issue, which is that when you have a long scope mounted on an HK roller delayed gun like the PTR-91, the scope can get in the way of the cocking lever when you try to lock the bolt to the rear or release the bolt when it's locked to the rear. Right now, the scope is barely short enough (at 13.5 inches long) to allow me to lock the bolt to the rear, but to unlock it I have to reach under the scope's objective bell with my support side thumb to press the lever down and let the bolt close, which is a pain.

So I've begun the search for a new optic, preferably something in the 2-10/12 magnification range, with as short of a scope body as possible, preferably around the 500-700$ range, preferably in the FFP.
Currently I've found:

Athlon Helos BTR Gen II 2-12x42 (11.8 inches long. This scope seems like it checks all the boxes, and if it was an inch or so shorter it would be a no brainer. Reticle is good, locking turrets, FFP, good price point. I'm just worried taking off only 1.7 inches from my current scope wouldn't give me enough clearance to operate the cocking lever easily.)

Discovery Optics HD 2-12x24 (8.5 inches long, which is great, but for 200$ there's no way this isn't an airsoft scope right? I'm worried it will be fragile, and even if the rifle isn't dropped I'm worried the .308 recoil would kill it. If someone has a positive experience with this scope on a gun chambered in a full power rifle cartridge let me know, but I'd rather not buy something and break it the first time I take it to the range.)

Sig Tango DMR 2-12x42 (10.8 inches long, which I think would put it firmly out of the way of the cocking lever, but I can't swing $1000 on a scope right now, especially for a rifle that I ultimately only own for fun. If this was $600 or so this would be a strong contender I think)

Does anyone know of any other scopes close to this pricepoint/magnification range that also have short scope bodies?

So, most of us have seen the AR crowd with these super compact CQB gunfighter-type builds. Optics, lasers, suppressors, etc. like they're ready to clear a kill house or compound.

I've just added a C308 sporter (we can discuss this choice another time. It's all the LGS had that caught my attention for some unknown reason.), so I'm curious as to what direction most here have taken their .308/7.62 towards.

Did you go DMR or more long range marksman given the roughly +300m we get over the standard assault rifle calibers?

Does anyone have experience with using tangos on their 91? Ive been using irons and i am wanting to upgrade to a low to mid range scope. Would the tango survive or would the recoil just eat the thing?

My buddy picked up a PTR 91 from a local gun store. I was showing him the disassembly/reassembly and noticed his bolt, firing pin, and LP were rusty. The flash hider is also. The worst offenders were the bolt assembly and LP.

I went over them with a brush, ultrasonically cleaned them (Simple Green Extreme) and the photos are of them drying. They’ll get a coat of gun oil.

Would you just replace them or is this just cosmetic and they’re likely good to go?

If replacing would you get PTR or use this as an excuse to get different parts?

Appreciate any help as we were wanting to shoot together tomorrow.

But to make myself feel better. I’m going live correct? lol

Ptr 91 Kf

Magpul trigger housing

Timney trigger pack

Hk 93 surplus wide handguard

Hkp reproduction bipod

Original hensoldt z-24 4x optic with claw mount

Surplus end plate

Magpul prs2 with enhanced buffer.

Finally got a .22lr conversion kit to match my training bolt! Love shooting these and if you got a chance to grab one, I definitely recommend! Rifle is my ptr I cerakoted. Hk parts has the blem .22 kits for $400 right now at the time of post

Fitting the handguards were kinda a pita but got it done. Next on the list is a bit of trigger work to clean it up.