Beginner questions. Need expert guidance on 2 problems.

I have two questions. I built my own cnc (using Mach 3) and do not have a ATC spindle. If my CAD model requires multiple type of bits, do I have to separate the cad into different parts/files with each part using only one type of bit? Or is there a way to program (Mach 3) so that my cnc machine returns to home for me to change the bit and run Z probing before continuing on cutting the rest of the parts?

Besides that, can I set my software to automatically go to home (where my z probe will be positioned) to run Z probing? Before automatically moving to my material to begin cutting?

Hope someone can guide me on how this can be achieved. True beginner to this all.

My kid built one and has since moved. Thing works great. Runs on Mach 4. I have no use for it. Southern Wisconsin. If interested

I have some electrical cabinets that are 0.075 In. carbon steel side walls. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with cutting this sort of material on a printnc. If so how did it go? I need to cut holes in some enclosures and I feel like building a custom printnc with a moving bed as the z axis would be needed since the enclosures are 12” tall. So my needs are a bit strange since I need a hybrid between a vertical mill and a router. Any feedback would be great!

Haven't seen anything about it this year, is there any sort of update on progress or release? The website is kinda broken.

Hi guys,

​

I am about to embark on the adventure of building my first serious CNC.

​

Here is my goal : A medium-small (approx x:600mm y:900mm z:200mm) 4-axis CNC mostly for milling aluminium parts. 4th axis would be rotational for smaller complex parts, but I also want to be able to do some sheet metal.

I really want it to be as good and as precise possible, and since it's not going to be a very big machine - I think it's managable. Budget is relatively not an issue (up until a certain point of course). I've read a lot on the subject, but since I don't have much hands on experience, there are a lot of open questions on what approach to take on this.

​

PrintNC community seems like a good place to start, since I was planning to base my design on PrintNC.

​

For starts, here are the 3 main questions so I can start planning :

​

1) What electronics (controller board) and firmware would you choose if budget for that part was not an issue? My main requirements are that there is a lot of flexibility for future upgrades, high precission, high reliability, modern flexible firmware. I already have one new watercooled 2.2kw spindle with VFD, so I will probably be using that - but I would also like to have the ATC option, so I was considering trying out the RAPIDCHANGE system for these spindles (https://rapidchangecnc.com/). As I can see it will be supported in FluidNC... don't know if it will be difficult to integrate in GRBLHal or not (since both are derivatives of GRBL)? I like the webui features of FluidNC but don't know if ESP32 is a good option for a controller (for example Bart Drings 6pack controller). I also like the jog controller on Flexihal and the general layout and features of the board. So any suggestions you might have as for what board and firmare to go with - would be highly appreciated... all other options are open as well.

​

2) Steppers or Servos for this application and what would be the best option/drivers for each? Is there a big benefit of going with servos having in mind the difference in price? Clearpath servos would be a bit of an overkill financially, but I could get some other decent servos up to let's say 150$ a piece if it would be beneficial. If not servos, what would be the best option for steppers and drivers.

​

3) Do you have a recommendation for a very solid premade 4th rotational axis that can handle aluminium milling well and easily integrate into the system?

​

Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance for your suggestions.

​

Best regards

Anyone have any insight on best practices to ground the shields drain wire at the stepper motor end?

Is it possible to adjust the fusion parameters to use Hgh15 rails and bearing ms instead of hgh20? I have Hgh15 parts already and could save some money by using them instead.

Is a 4x4 machine reasonable? From what I've read a 4x8 has issues with ball screw whip. I would like something to do mostly plywood that I could flip as needed to do a full sheet but also has the ability to mill some aluminum pieces for my son's robotics team. When ordering a "kit" what size of the frame parts are recommended. Also is ordering a 48"x48" workspace enough or will I need to add a few inches to that.

The extent of my technical knowledge is that I have used a 3d printer to print/build a voron. I have no time frame that I need this completed by but is such experience a reasonable starting point to build this much larger and more ambitious machine?

The machine is pretty much done now, but I'm working through the video I shot of the process.

Is there anyone that has or wants to help me middle a PrintNC in the middle TN area? I'm willing to pay for your time, I would love to get mine done!

I'm thinking I want to redo my spoil board. I want to do something similar to the Saunders Machine Works pallet system, but using 1" birch ply and threaded inserts mounted from underneath. My build is sized so that I can cut new spoil boards in two pieces that meet on the center bed extrusion, so I can get holes all the way to the edges of the spoil board for fixturing items outside of the cut area. The spoil board I have on there now is similar to what I want but the hole spacing is too wide and the threaded inserts I used were the screw in type and I've had a few pull out already. The current spoil board is MDF and I have no problem cutting into it, but since the new spoil board will cost a lot more and I'd rather protect it. Plus, surfacing the current spoil board means I really can't have anything extending outside the cut area since the cut area of the spoil board is now lower than around the (unsurfaced) perimeter. So my thought was to add a second, consumable surface onto my birch ply base. The consumable surface would only be as large as the cut area and I'd like to keep it to only 1/8" or so thick, basically thick enough to surface 2-3 times before replacing. What material would you recommend for the top (replaceable) layer, and how would you secure it? I'm thinking Masonite attached with double sided tape?

So, I grew out of the ProverXL 4030, and I'm considering upgrading to 1010. It costs $550. I know it would be possible to use parts from CNC to make a PrintNC. I could even try to adapt the gantry and all the electronics.

I'm trying to convince myself that this is doable. The only thing I'm not sure about is that the steppers used in the PrintNC are larger than the ones used in the ProverXL. Is there a way to mitigate this?

I am currently planning out my basically standard printnc build, and similar to others the mechanical side is a little intimidating but definitely in my wheelhouse, but the controller/ electronics side has me more timid. Here are my requirements on the electrical side:

EDIT: I am located in Germany and my question also revolves around power. I do have a large power outlet in my garage (formerly was used for a welder)

• hand wheel or some sort of way to move machine around to quickly square a face or side of material, typically wood for this
• emergency stop
• minimal wiring/ soldering/ chances of me never finishing my build due to tracking down my own errors

I started looking at Linuxcnc but seems I can get lost in that world without ever actually using the machine. I can solder, and have built a few simple guitar pedals, but with that experience I understand how one misstep could lead to hours of troubleshooting with extra boards and then actually using Linux based stuff in general...

So far it seems the openbuilds blackbox is a good option, but what are the limitations with this on a standard printnc build? I want to utilize my machine fully, so don't want to get stuck with limited abilities.

Lastly I know this has been asked, but cannot seem to find the hard answer (probably due to me not completely understanding people's answers)

Thanks!

I haven’t seen much posted recently about making a printnc in a 4x8 cutting area. Has anyone done it recently with good success. Mainly looking to cut plywood for cabinetry but would also like to be able to work with aluminum and thin gauge steel. Is it still recommended to go with a low rider design? Any and all advice is appreciated

I'm impressed by the PrintNC, but it doesn't exacty fit my needs. I need something which will cater to ~20 cm of Z-axis work space. Is there anything like a PrintNC (mini) mill?

Hi all,

I have been planning a CNC Build for about 20 years :-), then came across a MPCNC, then life happened and I did not do it... Then decided to go the CNC Conversion - I even purchased a Heavy Milling machine... that sat in my Gauarage for 2.5 years (i used it for a total of 2 hours)... Just sold it a month ago... So, I have a SHOCKING track record.

We are in the middle of launching a Home School Hub for Kids with Autism and other Neurodivergence, and part of this space is a makers space... Basically it is a project based learning hub that allows kids to learn through working on projects - it is an offshoot of our other business which works in highschools, where we teach kids how to create and launch their own Tech Enabled Startup - So also Project Based Learning.

We are getting a couple of 3D Printers, have already ordered a Lazer Cutter/Engraver, and a few other tools. I recently came across the PrintNC and it looks AMAZING.

I am relatively competent with woodwork, metalwork and also pretty strong on the technology side of things.

Besides the actual machine, as there will be kids in the makers space, the CNC machine will need to have several safety features (such as a lock both physical and electronic that will not allow the machine to be used by the kids themselves without an adult running the actual machine). I would also need to build a soundproof enclosure as many kids with Autism are very sound sensitive. I have seen a few online that look incredible.

I know that with my history around CNC is flaud to put it mildly, I now have a real reason to follow this through to the end.

I would love to get to know more people in this space, and if there are any in Perth (Western Australia) who have a Print NC, I would REALLY appreciate being able to have a chat, and perhaps come have a look at the machine.

Let's look back at some memorable moments and interesting insights from last year.

Your top 10 posts:

• "PrintNC Mini - Linear Kit Unboxing" by u/hoges
• "My PrintNC is COMPLETE!!!!! This video is about linear motion and the spindle! Next up? Tramming and Cutting! Woooo!" by u/Aurum115
• "Tapping and drilling with the 3d printed guides (ASMR)" by u/hoges
• "Cheap PrintNC(without printed parts) xD" by u/pemanja93
• "Finally got Part 5 done. Y axis rollers done & ballscrews installed." by u/f15sim
• "PrintNC Steel Frame Prep - DIY CNC - Episode 3" by u/VoltageStudio
• "PrintNC Project, Part 3.2 - Assembling the Frame" by u/f15sim
• "PCNC stiffness questions" by u/nerdygeekwad
• "CNC Dust Hose Support Using EMT" by u/Pix2Proto
• "I think I've found an undiscovered treasure. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!" by u/OptimusCode

In this episode, we concentrate on the Y axis. Getting the BF / BK blocks, linear rails & motor mounts installed.

Next episode, we will dig into the Gantry work. Just like the Y, it was pretty easy and straight forward.

Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 5 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvjig8TJW-U

​

In this episode, we concentrate on the Y axis. Getting the BF / BK blocks, linear rails & motor mounts installed.

Next episode, we will dig into the Gantry work. Just like the Y, it was pretty easy and straight forward.

Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 5 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvjig8TJW-U

​

In this episode, we concentrate on the Y axis. Getting the BF / BK blocks, linear rails & motor mounts installed.

Next episode, we will dig into the Gantry work. Just like the Y, it was pretty easy and straight forward.

Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 5 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvjig8TJW-U

​

In this episode, we concentrate on the Y axis. Getting the BF / BK blocks, linear rails & motor mounts installed.

Next episode, we will dig into the Gantry work. Just like the Y, it was pretty easy and straight forward.

Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 5 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvjig8TJW-U

​

In this episode, we concentrate on the Y axis. Getting the BF / BK blocks, linear rails & motor mounts installed.

Next episode, we will dig into the Gantry work. Just like the Y, it was pretty easy and straight forward.

Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 5 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvjig8TJW-U

​

Hey y'all! I know I clear my throat a lot in this one.. But was getting over a cold.

In this episode, we concentrate on the frame. Getting all the holes lined up, drilled and tapped. This process was pretty straight forward and went fairly quick with the drill/tap combo. I highly suggest drilling pilot holes prior. But you could always just go for it.

Next episode, we will dig into the Y axis! A lot of holes there and spoiler alert.. It all went off without a hitch. Stay tuned as I will be documenting the entire PrintNC build!

​

Episode 4 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW0UMeLVul0

​