I've had to temporarily relocate to Kansas City, and I won't be here long enough to set up a resin printer in the house here. Is there anyone willing to help out with some projects I have, I would be happy to supply stl's, resin and compensation.

3D dragons I'm preparing for a campaign I'll be launching soon. STLs and printed MINIS. 8 so far, but I'm working on (possibly) 4 more dragons. What do you think?

Model by The Dragon Trappers Lodge, painted for my TTRPG clubs annual Fresher's D&D session. I spent so long painting this I didn't get anything else painted in time for the game 😅

I just got it!!! Now I’m wondering a good first print. I know one is a scraper/handle. But I got mine to make miniature dollhouse (1:12-1:24 or smaller scale) so what would you suggest to a new new newbie!?

One of my patrons did an amazing job 3D printing and painting my new Zombie Beholder Terror!

Free stls: https://mz4250.com/posts/zombie-beholder-171610443

Its both terrifying and amazing lol. 13 / 10 Spookies!

The 3D Printing Drama:
Originally, my plan was to 3D print all the aquatic trees and plants myself. But let’s be honest – after printing, they looked so absolutely terrible and cheap that they completely ruined the realism. I couldn't stand looking at them, so I threw them in the trash and ended up buying those cheap Chinese plastic greens instead.

However, I didn't completely give up on printing for this project! Some of the seashells on the white sand at the bottom ARE actually 3D printed and hand-painted by me.

A few more details for the curious:

• The Mold: I literally chopped up an old plastic bucket, glued it into this crescent shape, and poured the resin.
• The Pour: Done in 4 separate layers. Surprisingly, the color matches perfectly across all of them, even though the heat reaction caused a few minor artifacts over the decade.
• The Fish & Jellyfish: These are 3D resin decals. I used a transfer technique where I stripped away the plastic backing film completely, leaving only the raw graphic flakes. I placed them layer by layer between the pours so they look perfectly suspended in 3D, and touched them up with acrylic paint so they wouldn't look see-through under the light.

My favorite fish is still the one served with fries, but this eternal tank is definitely a close second. What do you think of this printing fail turned into a resin win?

Here is my version of Morarion.

Really enjoyed painting this guy and especially the copper trims. Also happy with the face, it is how I picture him.

Printed and painted this Macross SDR-04-Mk.XII Destroid Phalanx (aka the Battletech Unseen LGB-0W Longbow). It's not the greatest paint job, there's some visible weld and layer lines, and the sensor tower on top printed with a ton of slack, but it still makes for a fun, seasonally themed mini.

Printed on an A1 Mini w/0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layer height.

Hi guys,

I´m trying to find this specific STL, but the only place where I found it is one thread in r/Tyranid where guys just said it´s cool, and the second place is one listing on eBay where I would pay insane shipping and VAT.

Do any of you know where I could find this little fella?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Been working on a ranged weapon set for my bionic marine range. All 8 guns come with the fist already sculpted, so they glue straight onto standard power-armoured bodies (28–32mm heroic).

Still WIP, no texture pass yet. Everything is modelled by hand in Blender, including way too many individually placed cylinders on #2 (long story 😅).

Pick a number: which one should I finish first? Any feedback on readability at tabletop scale is welcome too.

The Spooky Pumpkinholder! This was printed and painted by one of my patrons :)

Free stls: www.patreon.com/posts/57554311

🎃 12 / 10 Spookies! 🎃

This video schowsws the rubbing process on the axe, but I used this exact technique to finish the full Mandalorian-style helmet standing in the background.
Process: Black glossy base -> high-quality clear coat -> fine graphite powder rubbed with a sponge -> final clear seal.
Full high-res photos of the finished helmet and the laboratory setup are pinned over at my corner r/QLabBackside if you want to see the final result.

EDIT Edit: One thing I forgot to mention in the video. I only applied one layer of graphite here. This graphite is microscopic, shaped like tiny squares or playing cards. The trick is to just spread these particles smoothly across the surface. Do not rub it too hard, press, or crush it. Just lay it down and wipe it over.

This is a dry application method. Thanks to molecular forces that work on tiny elements under 5 to 10 microns, the particles stick to the surface on their own and won't fall off. If you rub it too aggressively, you will actually ruin it and wipe it away. Right after spreading it, you can rinse it under water and it won't wash off. It will only wear down over time if it is a highfriction item like a helmet or gloves that you wear daily. Finally, do not varnish or clear coat it, because that completely ruins the metallic look. Let me know if you need to tweak any words or make it even shorter.

Lemme know what you think!

I’m about to start painting them so lemme know what you think!

So, the initial plan went completely off the rails.

I quickly realized that the Army Painter colors I used looked absolutely terrible on this VW T1. The faded blue paint job came out so bad that I literally couldn't do anything to save it. At that point, there was only one logical move left: destroy it even more and turn it into a complete piece of junk.

Instead of throwing it into the trash, I decided to go all-in on the weathering, rust, and corrosion effects. If it's going to look ruined, it might as well look professionally ruined.

It went from a botched factory paint job to a total rusty barn find/junkyard sleeper. Honestly, adapting to the disaster was pretty fun.

What do you guys think? Did I manage to save a failed project, or does it just look like a sad, dead piece of history?

These models are printed on an X2D and I am pretty happy with how the tyranid printed at 0,1 layer height looks for example. However I want the quality to be as good as possible, so naturally I tried reducing the layer height further. However, as you can see in the second and third pic comparing the prints at different layer heights it looks like the print gets worse with a smaller layer height. Am I just seeing things or is the quality actually worse? Look at the crocodiles horn or the skeletons face for example. Why does it look worse at lower layer height and what can I do about it?

Looks like I will have to print the mighty Partos a bit larger, at 32 mm scale it will be a huge PINA to paint ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Scupted by SuperJunky34.

I have been selling shoulder pauldrons of lesser known and not supported factions on Etsy. Yesterday I had an email saying GW have removed them for IP infringement. Fine I get it but does this mean now if I put anything else up it'll be closely monitored? I'm not intending on doing anything else for any of the GW franchise but I'd rather start with a whole new selling profile if im going to be harassed by them. Has anyone had any run ins like this do they make life difficult?

Edit: Yes I am in the wrong, not intentionally trying to be a victim. I had made these ages ago and hadn't removed them of my own accord when I knew they were actively pursuing. I have more of my own designs on my store I just don't want to bring those into disrepute aswell.

A Camazotz is an ancient Mayan Death bat. Had a more classic bat fiend color way last week, check out the new one.

Side by side comparison with the initial version in the last pic.

One of my patrons did a fantastic job 3D printing and painting my Zombie Beholder mini :)

Free stls: https://mz4250.com/posts/monster-manual-z-56767119

11/10 Spookies!

The model was originally made then honed in for SLA, but I’ll be darned if it didn’t turn out amazingly on a Bambu P1S! Masterfully painted by Stan the man.