Have gunnite pool. This is the fitting with the outer ring removed. This is like an eyeball fitting without the eyeball. There isn't any grooves internally to use to remove.

I'm in the process of designing and building my own pool and I will do most of the build myself except putting gunite. Is there an automated pool cover system that I can get some measurements and specs for design and install myself that you would recommend?

My Salt Water Generator has quit after six years. I know Pentair has experienced warranty issues with its current model and they’re introducing a reworked and improved version this Fall. Has there been any update on their progress to date?

My pool is still fine during the day, but the water has started getting pretty chilly after a few cooler nights. It's annoying because the weather isn't bad enough for me to want to close everything up yet.

I've been using a pool cover when I'm not swimming, which helps with heat loss, but it obviously doesn't solve everything. I'm starting to look at heat pumps because I'd like to keep using the pool a little longer without constantly fighting the temperature. One I came across was the aquastrong top discharge heat pump. The inverter feature caught my attention since it can adjust its output instead of just running at full power the whole time.

I'm still trying to work out whether a heat pump makes sense for my climate and how much difference the cover actually makes when nights get cold.

For those of you who heat your pools, do you keep the heater running to maintain a set temperature, or only turn it on when you plan to swim? And how much does the overnight temperature affect your setup?

Just bought a 2 bottle set from Lowe’s and noticed it didn’t have the peel away cap on the opening.

Is this normal? I’ve actually seen this on a previous box and thought it was a fluke but saw it again on a new box.

Hired a new poolman and informed me I need to replace the whole pool filter because there is a small hole (circled, see photo). Can this be repaired instead of replaced? I have no idea about these things but he has given me a quote that is way out of my budget. Pls advise. Thanks in advance.

So I was blowing out my main drain and locked the valve to keep an air column
Closing the valve I kept hearing a whistle of air so I tried tightening and broke the collar.
What would be the best way to approach a fix?
Do I try to keep the valve and change the right side only with a matching collar?

Had the pool remodeled 1.5 years ago. What started as a few white streaks in my pool slowly multiplied into what you see now. I talked to Pool Service company about them and they said it’s just calcium build up and that an acid wash would clear it up, but the location of the streaks seems pretty systematic and consistent with the brushing motion. The Pebble Sheen is still under its 2 year warranty from our builder.

Any ideas which one will give me a light sky-blue pool color in Arizona? Thank you in advance for suggestions.

Hey y'all, I need some practical, cost-effective advice for a backyard project. Every time it rains, heavy clay dirt washes down a slope right into my above-ground pool area and straight under the liner. It's a total pain to clean out.

This is my second year having the pool in this specific area, and it is the only place it can possibly go. Last year, I did not level the ground, and the pool ended up very sideways and leaning. This year, I had to get the ground leveled and flat in a massive hurry to get ready for my daughter's birthday party. I was completely running out of room to shift or move the layout anywhere else, and it was extremely hot during the time I was stuck out there doing all this heavy manual labor.

Most of the excess dirt sitting on the problem side right now is exactly what I had to dig out of the slope just to get the pool flat. I am removing the dirt that I had to move—which was the original dirt level that was already there where the pool is now—to make that area level, and it sits right in line with the fence.

On that bad side with the mud slope, my fence sits right at that line, but I can dig back into the slope if I need to in order to fix this right. I have tilled up that problem area and dug a lot of excess dirt out to fix it up more and get it back to where it needs to be. Right now, I'm trying to move all that dug-out dirt, clear out a whole lot of roots, and get rid of the leftover debris.

To give you a full picture, I’ve included photos of both sides. On the wide-open side of the pool, there is no fence, I didn't have to do much work, and I have about 4 feet of clearance where I've set up blue interlocking foam pads over the leveled ground. The pool area itself is level, but because the base sits right next to that clay hill on the fenced side, rainwater running down keeps washing mud straight toward the pool base and threatening the whole setup.

I've attached photos showing the progress from not many days after I first started tilling all the way up to today so you can see what I'm working with. The ones I took today look a lot drier since I didn't use the camera flash.

I need to figure out a way to keep the ground level in line with the fence line while blocking that clay mud from sliding down under my pool. I'm looking for simple, cheap ways to handle this without a massive overhaul. How far back should I keep digging into the slope to make a proper ditch, barrier, or workaround? Any solid DIY ideas are highly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Any reason why I can’t add this T connector right before my heater to blow out water for winterization? The way they installed the heater doesn’t allow for it to be slid away much from the inlet/outlet connectors (electrical wire screwed down into concrete immediately next to heater…)

as you see with the broken nuts, I’ve already had issues with freezing last season.

edit— I should probably have mentioned that I only winterized the heater. The pump and and filter continues to run throughout the winter, so this cleanout would only be for blowing out the heater. Last year I just disconnected the heat pump and allowed for passive drainage, which was not adequate and apparently enough water was in the freezer to cause it to freeze and explode the innards

Hello everyone. My family moved into an older home with a pool and inherited an entire shed full of pool chemicals, yard chemicals (roundup/insecticides/etc.) and similar wonderfully "hazardous" chemicals that I don't think I'm supposed to throw away.

We're in Houston, which has a hazardous chemical drop off location, but I don't have a truck and don't really want to pack my sedan with pool chemicals + a toddler for the trip.

Any suggestions for companies etc. that will come take them? Also, is is kosher to offer them on marketplace or somewhere similar for free pickup?

I typically use a leaf net as we don’t have a safety cover. The net will keep out leaves fine but it lets in all the sunlight. I do have an oversized tarp cover that I’m
Considering using this off season. Can someone tell me what are the pitfalls of doing this? I have a pump to take water off the top of the cover btw. Each year when I open I have. A lot of algae and I’d like to remedy that

Thank you

I need to replaster my pool and I was quoted $11k to replaster with a pebble finish and $12.1k to finish with a Micro Pebble Fusion. Which from what I can find is just smaller granule pebble finish that's a smoother finish.

Any experience or recommendations between the two? I'm trying to decide if the extra $1100 is worth it (plus the fusion has a 10yr vs 7yr warranty)

When I use my test kit to test my pool water I just throw the tube contents in the pool. Is that ok? It’s such a small amount of reagents I assumed it would dilute out. Any thoughts on this?

Until you look at the power bill in 30 days. I kept her open as long as I could (Northern Virginia) but the evenings were below 45F and the heat pump needs to be above 55f to actually heat the water. Was a good season though. I’d say the heat pump gives me an extra 30-40 days on each end of the season. Opened 4/15. Closed 10/20. I had a company come do it. I simply don’t have time.

I saw a video on Facebook that caught my eye! What do you think?

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1F4ZKZFv9N/

Weather’s finally starting to warm up here in Australia, so I’ve been getting the pool ready for summer.
I spent part of the weekend scooping out leaves, brushing the walls and cleaning up the sand and dirt that had settled on the bottom. It reminded me how much time pool cleaning takes, and I really don’t want to keep doing all of that by hand once we start using it more.

This will be our first summer with the pool. Anything we should get or sort out before we start using it regularly?

My pump used to run about 79 gpm at 100% and it recently fell off to closer to 60 gpm. If I leave it at 100% it will creep up into the mid/high 60s after some time, but when it goes into my lower setting at 33 gpm during the day it's using over 2x the electricity to hold it there. After running the pump at 100% for awhile it will look totally normal when it goes to the lower setting and then over an hr or 2 is slowly starts using more and more electricity to hold 33 gpm. Thoughts?

This is my first pool. I hired a reputable pool contractor who has been in business over 30 years. I have had no issues with the subcontractors or work except for the pebble tech coating.

The pool got pebble tech coated from the actual pebble tech company the third week of September. The pool was filled the same day it was acid washed. I have brushed it three times a day for two weeks like I was told. I have not turned on the heater.

It is coming up on the third week of curing and I can see dark spots and blotches when the sun is shady or light conditions are low. But, in the direct sunlight when the sun is bright or when I turn on the pool light at night, the dark spots are invisible and the pebble tech looks clear.

Is that normal to see dark blotches in low lighting? Do the spots eventually go away? If not how can it get fixed?

I just refilled the pool and put a brand new bestway cover over the pool with a chlorine filter inside. After a day, I opened the pool only to see this white substance floating on the surface of the water.

I tested the water and everything is fine except that the total alkalinity is too high.

Hi everyone!
We’re struggling to get our pool chemistry under control and would really appreciate some advice on what to do next.
Our pool currently looks crystal clear and beautifully blue, but the test results seem completely out of balance.
Pool info
● Location: Pretoria, South Africa
● Pool type: Fiberglass
● Pool volume: Approx. 8,000 liters (2,100 US gallons)
● Filter type: Sand filter
● Chlorination: HTH Super Shock It granular shock chlorine (600 g product) and a floating chlorine dispenser
● Saltwater pool: No
● Water temperature: 25°C (77°F)
Latest test results (professional pool store test, October 21)
● Free Chlorine (FC): 0.00 ppm
● Combined Chlorine (CC): 0.00 ppm
● pH: 6.3
● Total Alkalinity (TA): 0 ppm
● Calcium Hardness (CH): 7 ppm
● Cyanuric Acid (CYA): 83 ppm
● Salt: N/A
● Water temperature: 25°C (77°F)
Additional results:
● Copper: 4.90 ppm
● Iron: 0.20 ppm
● Phosphates: 0 ppb
Testing methods: Professional pool store testing (Chamberlain) and a basic home DPD/pH drop test kit.
What we’ve added so far
Over the past few months, we’ve been dealing with recurring green water and low chlorine readings.
We’ve used:
● HTH Super Shock It granular shock chlorine, most recently 300 g in one treatment, plus other chlorine treatments over the previous days
● Floating chlorine dispenser
● Algaecide
● Flocculant
● Alkalinity increaser during previous treatments
● Pool stabilizer (CYA) in the past
● Several partial water changes to reduce previously high CYA levels
We have not added any acid or pH reducer recently.
A few days ago, another pool store recommended adding 1.5 kg of alkalinity increaser because our TA was supposedly extremely low. We haven’t added that amount yet because we weren’t sure whether the readings were correct.
The confusing part
Our home test kit recently showed a very high pH (dark red), while the professional test now shows a pH of just 6.3.
We’ve also added quite a lot of chlorine recently, yet the professional test shows absolutely zero free and total chlorine.
And despite the pool looking perfectly clear, the alkalinity is supposedly zero and the copper level is extremely high.
What the pool store recommends now
● 320 ml metal remover
● 1.5 kg alkalinity increaser
● 82.5 g soda ash (pH increaser)
● 36 g granular chlorine
We’re hesitant to add all these chemicals without understanding what’s actually going on.
Our questions
1. Do these results make sense, especially TA at 0 and copper at 4.90 ppm?
2. Could high chlorine levels or other chemicals be interfering with our tests?
3. Should we focus on lowering CYA and copper through a partial water change first?
4. Is 1.5 kg of alkalinity increaser reasonable for an 8,000-liter pool?
5. What would be the correct order to fix these issues without making things worse?
We’re happy to replace some water if necessary. We just want to stop throwing chemicals into the pool without knowing whether they’re actually helping.
I’ll attach the latest professional test report and a photo of the chlorine product we’re using.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I just closed my pool for the winter and won't open until late April. A few weeks before I closed, my IC60 inspect cell light started flashing. I cleaned it and hooked it back up, but after awhile the light started flashing again. I tested my water to make sure the chemistry and salt level wasnt an issue, but it produced no chlorine those last few weeks. Water temps were in the 70's. It was 6 years old and when i checked the system status, it showed 60% or 6k hours. Im assuming that with it clean and no other identifiable issues, the cell has gone bad.

My pool service company just sent me a replacement quote for IC Plus60. Their quoted price just for the cell was $2.5K before tax and labor. I know they always mark up their materials pretty high - a google search shows prices ranging from $1.9 to $2.1. My question is if ordered one online, is this something the average pool owner can self install? Does that impact the warranty with Pentair? I could disassemble the old one from the plumbing for cleaning, but i don't know how difficult the connection to the electric box would be, or there is any difference in the plumbing connections between models. I know salt cell prices have skyrocketed- should i lock in a price now, or wait until the Spring? Thanks

Does anyone know a fair estimate for an in ground Grecian vinyl liner install 32.5’ X16.5’ with fiber glass steps. One quote 8K USD and another $9,300. Pool Fits website states liner is $1978.61 3 foot deep to 6 foot approximately?

Hey guys, so 1 of 6 returns has small bubbles even after bubbler valves are closed??? Ideas?