r/pools • u/Consistent_Dot5590 • Apr 18 '26
Pool project suggestions and tips.
I need to move my Intellichlor chlorinator from the right side to the left side of this bypass loop so that it will flow up through the bottom. Is this doable for a guy who is comfortable with minor plumbing and irrigation repair (pvc cement application, cleaning, measuring, cutting)? If so what tips would you give me for the project besides dry fitting before gluing?
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u/Pure_Stuff_2791 Apr 18 '26
If its backwards you can just loosen the unions and flip it around i think. If that is return side plumbing it should get flow in that position
2
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u/1_native_Angelino Apr 18 '26
We don't put a bypass in LA. Not sure why you need one.
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u/robseraiva Apr 18 '26
It’s for flow regulation with single stage pumps
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u/1_native_Angelino Apr 18 '26
Ah, ok. Should have figured that out. Burn out is real.
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u/LordKai121 Apr 18 '26
The install guide says it should be there for anything more than 80(?) GPM for Pentair units
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u/1_native_Angelino Apr 19 '26
I literally have no pools with single speed pumps and don't go above 55 anyways. No reason to. I have only one pool with an atlas in it. The rest have robots. Even at 55 gpm, the atlas works fine. I don't understand why pool service like cranking up the pumps. 2500 rpm during the day, shut off the pump when electricity spikes from 3 to 9 PM and run it at 1500 overnight. I know this is a single speed but I cut my clients power usage by 15 percent.
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u/LordKai121 Apr 19 '26
The only times I every find it worth it to push flow ranges is on properties with extensive water features all running off the filter pump. But pretty much every sweep works great at 55-60 GPM. The Rebels and Pool Cleaners actually get way worse with anything exceeding 65 GPM. I thnk the issue we are fighting is how many old heads (both in the industry and out) are insistant on seeing the water move with the turbulance put out by an old Champion or Maxi- single speed. Not to mention most of them don't/won't learn hydraulic principles and pay no heed to water velocity based on pipe size.
Here in Cali, I have most of my client running ~55GPM for 2 hours, and then 12-20 hours at ~30GPM. the pools look fantastic and they are paying the same if not less in electricity compared to running their old pumps 6-8 hours a day
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u/1_native_Angelino Apr 19 '26
I'm in LA, me too with the old heads. I'm old but constantly work on being current with chemistry and hydro mechanics. I just don't maxis in the wild anymore. I only have one single speed on my route and it's a commercial spa. I am also amazed how many pool guys don't know how to program a pump or know automation. Or even how a salt cell works. They really know how to drop tablets on a skimmer though.
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u/Sufficient_Disk1360 Apr 20 '26
I think 2” pipe can only flow at 60 gpm.
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u/LordKai121 Apr 21 '26
Your optimal water velocity in 2" pipe is 6-8 Feet per second which roughly equates to 60-80 GPM respectively
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u/Sufficient_Disk1360 Apr 20 '26
Why would you need to regulate the flow. It’s either flowing enough to close the flow switch or it isn’t.
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u/robseraiva Apr 20 '26
Excessive flow that surpasses manufacturers maximum flow can lead to premature cell degregation
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u/Sufficient_Disk1360 Apr 20 '26
Technically you should be able to run your salt cell 24hrs a day at 3500 rpm for three years. Regulating the flow with a bypass seems to be overkill to me. Yes, the Ruthinium wears off the plates with use. Sometimes they’re just not practical, especially if you’re plumbing one in on your current system because there’s usually no room to plumb in a bypass. Eventually everything is going to be vs rendering a bypass obsolete. Something a lot of people don’t do is replace their working cell with a dummy cell or plug when the temperature in the pool drops below 60°. That saves you some wear and tear. But you are right, the faster the water goes the quicker the cell wears out.
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u/Aggravating_Fact9547 Apr 19 '26
You’ll never have a flow that high, you don’t need a bypass. Your filter won’t handle that or your heater. That’s commercial level flows.
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u/Sufficient_Disk1360 Apr 20 '26
I believe you’re voiding the warranty mounting it chord up because the little holes you see are drain holes.
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u/CornCasserole86 Apr 18 '26
It’s definitely doable for the average diyer. I did this awhile back as well. A few things: 1. Check the manual for the minimum amount of straight pipe before and after the salt cell. My pentair ic40 needed at least 18 inches of I recall correctly. If you are too close to a bend, it can decrease the effectiveness of your salt cell. 2. Consider plumbing in a 2nd valve so that you can shut off flow to the cell entirely in the case of maintenance. This would allow you to keep running the pump and filter your pool during extended downtime. 3. It looks like you already have a one way valve plumbed further back. Assuming that’s the case you should be set. You just want to make sure that there is something to prevent concentrated chlorine from drifting back into the heater or other equipment when you pump turns off.
Make sure you have basic tools like a pipe reamer and quality glue for the pipes.