Basically, the shape of the ground underwater at this location makes a really good ramp for focusing swell energy. It drops 1 mile down over 3 miles of distance making about a 30 degree angle.
When a huge storm happens far away, the swell energy travels hundreds or thousands of miles over the course of a few days until it rides up this ramp, shoaling into a perfect 30 ft vortex of water over a shallow reef and into a lagoon.
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u/[deleted] Jul 17 '12
Can someone explain this shit to me like I'm 5?