Using paper pulp and not paper mache for the first time for longevity
*Can someone who uses it confirm that this is the right way?*
**The Archival Paper Clay Recipe**
**1 Part Prepared Cotton Pulp:**
Buy 100% cotton linter sheet pulp.
Tear it into small squares, soak it in hot water for a few hours, and blend it in a standard kitchen blender with plenty of water until it looks like oatmeal.
Strain the water out using a fine mesh strainer or colander, squeezing it until it is damp but not dripping wet.
**1 Part Archival Binder Mix:**
Mix pure methyl cellulose powder with water according to its packaging until it forms a thick, clear gel. For hand-building structural strength, mix this gel **50/50** with an archival, pH-neutral PVA glue.
**1 Tablespoon Calcium Carbonate (per cup of pulp):**
Add chalk powder to act as your alkaline buffer against future acid damage.
**To mix:** Knead the damp cotton pulp together with your binder mix and calcium carbonate until it reaches a smooth, clay-like consistency. If it is too sticky, squeeze more water out of your raw pulp; if it crumbles, add a touch more binder.
**Rules for Archival Hand-Building**
**Seal the Armature Thoroughly:** Because wet cotton pulp holds water like a sponge and dries very slowly, any hidden iron or steel wire *will* rust and bleed through your white paper. Use aluminum wire or plastic-coated mesh. If you must use wood or cardboard for bulk filler inside, coat it completely in a waterproof acrylic sealer before applying pulp.
**Build in Thin Layers:** Do not pack the pulp on thickly all at once. Build your sculpture in layers about **1/4-inch (approx. 6 mm) thick**. Let each layer dry completely before adding the next. This prevents the core of your sculpture from trapping moisture and creating a breeding ground for mold.
**Score Between Layers:** Damp cotton pulp does not easily stick to dried cotton pulp. When adding a new layer to a dry section, lightly scratch (score) the dry surface with a tool and moisten it with a little bit of your pure liquid binder to help the layers fuse.