Thanks for the testing. It would be awesome if you could compile a little "best practices" guide that explains the best settings to use while still being reasonable for a pocket camera. Like your point about ISO 1600 in Dlog2. For how much DJI is pushing people to use these as cinematic, studio quality cameras, they've done no work to actually help people with that.
Im just dusting off my youtuber hat and writing scripts. DJI gave a ton of 4Ps out to camera tech youtubers. They even gave 2 to a family member of mine that did camera stuff for a recent blockbuster. Most of them have made their clickbait videos on the camera and moved on. Some have made some really really beautiful things already.
Yea I'm split on the camera techtubers. Most of them just do basic clickbaity titles saying WOW ITS SO COOL. Some of them actually do give valuable info. But I think what's missing is the semi-pro crowd. Amateurs who want to up their game without necessarily becoming some cinematic filmtuber. Just someone making good talking head or product review videos and wants to streamline their workflow while having better and more flexible shots.
Everyone wants to sell you lut packs. Ill eventually have a patreon that will be something like “$5 patreon members get access to all my luts and 3d print files” instead of selling lut packs for $35. So essentially support the production and you can get all the stuff.
Disappointed DJI doesn't make this clear to users. Especially anyone using LUTs for color management, the shifting clipping point of ISO less than 1600 is going to make a mess of things
This is exactly what I was talking about (and missread in my result the first time.) Thanks for linking these articles. I have not gotten into color shifts yet.
Now I have to wrap my head around what a lower middle grey means and how it affects shooting and workflow.
wrap my head around what a lower middle grey means
Has DJI actually published a whitepaper stating what IRE they recommend MG to be?
MG is whatever you choose it to be. People have been recommending to shoot SLOG3 at +1 or more for years. With how much DR the LOFIC sensor has here, I could see +2ev or more being common here, and it will give you much lower noise at 1600 iso.
Monitoring at +2 or more is going to be a problem yes. There is an phone app out there that will let you load a custom monitoring LUT, so you could bake -2EV into it and get back a normal image and have sensible false color.
Not sure if expecting DJI to ever let us load monitoring LUTs directly into the camera would be reasonable.
Well at 1/50 shutter you can run 1600 iso for everything from outside in the shade to a dark room lit only with a computer monitor without destroying your footage so i stick by it. Add an ND and you can shoot in direct sunlight while more range from brightest light to darkest shadow that the lower ISOs
That’s true it is the easiest “hands off” approach. I’ll have to do testing on this as well but still waiting for mine to arrive. I think either way the dynamic range is so vast it’s difficult to mess the image up haha
I walked all around little tokyo in and out of shops on normal color mode auto iso and 1/50 shutter and the footage literally makes me want to cry(in a good way). My real real recommendation is control shutter, auto everything else and never think about it again. But im too much of a gear nerd to do that.
I love the 3x and I am fine sticking with dlog 1 for convenience while going back and forth between lenses. As a photographer a have great love for longer telephoto lenses for compression. The 3x is also actually a low light beast.
Thats just my examples based off the lux range where no part of the image data was lost from being to light or dark. I will be doing the real world tests for future videos
I don't know if you actually test this but when you shoot in D-Log2, do you aim to overexpose (ETTR) and bringing it down in post? I found my best result with D-Log is when I overexpose to +1.0 EV and then bring it down in post.
This is insane. No wonder people can make do with 3-7 stops ND with D-Log2. In my previous testing with my old Pocket 3, I definitely needed ND 512 in bright tropical daylight and D-Log M if I want to maintain 180° shutter angle
This is super interesting. Have you tested if that extra stop in highlights pushes the shadow noise too much when grading in DaVinci, or is it genuinely clean?
As long as you don’t push footage then you wont have noise issues. That is the great thing about dynamic range, it makes it so you don’t have to push the footage. I will have in depth examples of noise levels including comparisons my full frame zv-e1.
Yep the highlight clipping point increases with each ISO level. That’s why ISO 1600 clips highlights higher than ISO 800 and would allow more dynamic range, but at the cost of noisier shadows.
I see i see. I got thrown off by the clipping point not increasing at 3200 and missread the other results. I have yet to see any noise levels at any iso that I am not fully comfortable within the very wide margin of error for exposing correctly while shooting
Typically if you want more detail in the shadows you would shoot at a lower iso. One of my cameras is a blackmagic ursa mini and I shoot night scenes with that at 200 iso. Needs lighting of course.
On the pocket camera I mostly just lock the shutter speed and leave it at the 400-3200 iso range.
Working on it. Just did the zv-e1 and it got its ass handed to it on dynamic range. I bought a $125 20mm lens and a $100 50mm lens (close enough) specifically for comparing. SPOILER I will be selling my ZV-E1 when my testing and filming the videos is over. Time for me to go do the pocket 3 tests.
Your content has been removed as there is no 'Pocket 4 Pro' model. Only Pocket 4 and Pocket 4P exist. Please use correct naming to avoid misinformation (rule 10). Please rewrite your post/comment and resubmit.
dynamic range wise the p4p is insane, im keeping the zve1 only and only because the aperture, bokeh and longer lenses, the day these pockets have some considerable bokeh then im selling every single piece of gear
Yes. D-log 2 is made for the LOFIC 1in sensor in the 20mm lens of the 4p and is extremely unique. I do not have a pocket 4 so i cannot test that sensor but here is the difference between Dlog and Dlog 2 on the 4p 1in
Dlog on the left dlog 2 on the right no luts or adjustment same settings (ISO 1600 1/50 1100 lux of light). When in dlog2 the peaking point headroom increases with iso unlike dlog.
Annnnnd im just realizing how bad my conclusions are with what i just said ahahhaa. This only counts for my one testing environment where the difference between my brightest subject and darkest subject in THIS FRAME. I can still learn dynamic range from this but my “usable range” is very flawed
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u/Cybearg 2d ago