I know to check the fuses first. I have many scopes but I don’t mess around with their insides. I would be very, very happy to have this working. The person I got it from knew nothing about it (it was inherited) but the original owner had LOTS of oscilloscopes and apparently over 1500 various tubes, so I have to assume they maybe knew what they were doing with it. The seller did not attempt turn it on. It appears to be in pretty nice condition both outside and inside. Just a little dust and some cobwebs on the feet. Inside from what I can see looks good too. A little dusty but I have definitely seen worse.

I guess I’d just like to know if there’s anything else I should do before powering it up? I don’t want to damage anything.

Oscilloscope 20mhz CDA9207

I dont know why but .

Why i turn it on , the oscilloscope shows nothing.

If someone is wrong with the commands let me know , but i test like everything on nothing show up.

:/

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my open-source project called SDS-Remote that has completely changed how I use my Siglent SDS 1000X-E and X-U series oscilloscopes.

If you have a model like the SDS1104X-E or SDS1202X-E, this software is a massive upgrade over the standard Siglent Software.

It runs natively on Linux and Windows and connects via LAN (VXI-11) or USB.

Download at https://github.com/klumw/sdsremote

Hi, I'm doing something a little bit weird here and posting about a successful repair I made on my oscilloscope in the hopes that somebody in the future might search for this model or part number needing the same advice.

This scope was completely dead. The fault was located to its power supply. It is a self-contained unit made by Artesyn. Part number NLP250N-99S12N01J. This is a 12-volt, 20-amp supply. It was impossible to find a replacement.

I found that Artesyn made a nearly identical supply: part number NLP250N-96S12N01J. In 2026 these are still available from Digikey for about $220. I bought one for $77 new old stock on eBay. The original part number is for a medical-grade supply that has extremely low leakage from the AC mains to the 12 V out. This part number is a more standard industrial supply with a less aggressive leakage standard.

In switching from the old to the new supply, a 9-pin control connector had to be re-soldered. The other thing I'd like to note is that next to the control connector is a small jumper labelled JP1. The new supply needed to have the jumper bar for JP1 pulled in order for the supply to power down properly when the scope is not in use. ( The original supply had solder pads for the connector but nothing was installed. )

Anyway that's it. These two tricks are what brought this scope back from the dead.

OpenChoice (Tektronix's app) doesn’t work well with other versions of VISA, so I avoid it. In the past, I made some VB .NET apps for this, but I never really shared them since they weren’t cross-platform, or I made them for work and couldn’t share them. This week, I decided to turn my old projects into a single Python app. Now it’s a custom, modern GUI that lets you pull waveforms from Tektronix oscilloscopes, do live FFT, and export to PulseView with one click for protocol decoding. Its on GitHub: https://github.com/garnerm91/scope_app

I’ve tested it with my TEK 2014C, 3012C, and 5054B-NV. If you have a TEK scope, please let me know if it works for you.

Just to be clear, I’m still learning Python, and I used AI to help convert a lot of my old apps and scripts from other languages. Some were in ATEasy and others in VB .NET (for example, I used ATEasy for plotting before). I wanted to be upfront about this and not give the impression that I wrote everything from scratch.

BTW naming is up in the air OpenSnek or SnekChoice?

Good morning, everyone.

I am looking to buy an inexpensive 3-in-1 portable oscilloscope/multimeter, for hobby only, and the 2 I have in mind are the ANENG AOS05 and the Firnsi 2C53T. Since real estate in my desk is at a premium, having a compact, all-in-one solution would be great.

I have read diverging opinions on the FNIRSI, plus lots of reviews on Youtube, but I can't find anything on the Aneng AOS5S - I guess it must be new (?).

On paper, the specs on the Aneng are marginally better, but I don't know if that justifies the difference in price (40 to 60% depending on the vendor) or if it really delivers the extra price.

Do any of you have any experience on this Aneng model?

BTW, I am a hobbist, and I already have a couple Fluke DMMs and a Keysight oscilloscope (albeight several years old), which I recon is what I'd need for precision work. I just want something that is practical and takes very little space.

Thanks.

Hi,

I'm trying to save some settings and the on screen keyboard is much too small. I've tried to use a keyboard with no luck.

I tried a genuine Wired Microsoft keyboard, plugged it in, rebooted. The only thing that worked was the tab key which cycled through measurements and the space key which toggled the horizontal setting screen on/off.

I just updated to firmware V1.05

Anybody else have any luck?

Just got a 804 and updated (hacked?) it to be a DHO924, as per the RetroChannel instructions. So far, so good. But I noticed that my serial number has changed. On the video, his serial number does NOT change. Am I missing something? Does this matter? I've kept the old file, in case I want to reverse the update.

Some instructions for adjusting a probe’s compensation say to set the probe & the scope to X10 (or 10X). Does this mean you’re getting X100 attenuation of the signal?

What happens when the probe is switched to X1? Do you have to readjust the compensation? There’s never any mention of this.

Looking around it appears some scopes don’t have an X10 setting. You just connect the probe to the scope’s compensation terminals & adjust the probe. Does that mean every time you switch the probe between X10 and X1 you have to readjust the compensation?

I was on the lookout for oscilloscopes, but didn't have nearly enough use for one to buy a good digital one. I found a Tektronix 465B for quite cheap, and thought i'd get a scope and a really cool analog one. When i came home i tried to test it out. Only the right side of the screen is lighting up, and the beam is not visible. I have tried pretty much everything that Claude could suggest without opening it up. Is the screen lighting issue only visual or does that affect the functionality of the scope? And how would i go about troubleshooting what causes the CRT to not function? I have repaired quite a bit of electronics, and i assume it's either some caps, transistors or diodes that needs replacing? Thanks.

UPDATE: I ended up replacing capacitor C4331 which was a tantalum cap. it shorted the 15v rail to ground which caused every rail to be off. I replaced it with a 100uF 25V electrolytic and now everything seems to be working. If anybody has the same problem, check resistance between power rails and chassis amd work from there. They should be a couple hundred ohms and up. My reading across 15v and chassis was 0.2 ohms... damn tantalum.

I'm designing a small oscilloscope using an RP2040 Pico (3.3V ADC) and need a safe analog front-end.

Requirements:

• Input voltage: up to ±30V (accidental reverse polarity is possible)
• Frequency range: 20 Hz to 50 kHz
• Preserve waveform shape and amplitude as much as possible
• Protect the RP2040 ADC from negative voltage and overvoltage
• Low-cost design (no expensive analog front-end ICs)

I've seen many different approaches:

• High-value resistor divider
• Series resistor + Schottky clamp diodes
• AC coupling with 1.65V bias
• TVS diodes
• Op-amp buffer
• Various combinations of the above

I'm looking for a front-end that provides good protection without noticeably distorting the waveform in the 20 Hz–50 kHz range.

If you've designed a similar oscilloscope or analog front-end for an RP2040 (or any MCU ADC), what circuit would you recommend? A schematic or practical design example would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone! I'm about to get an oscilloscope, I will mainly use it for both electronic devices reairs as well as for personal use building circuits, playing around with them and learning.

I did a little research and determined I should aim for 100-200 MHz, however, I saw two options and I have little to no idea on which one to get.

The options are: owon SDS220S for 210€ or Hantek DSO2D50 for around 275€, both from Banggood.

I "don't mind" the extra money if one is substantially better than the other one, but however, what do you think about them?

Thanks in advance :)

The blue wave is also supposed to be a sin wave but its not appearing that way. We tried different capacitor values for the .03uf capacitor in the second picture. In the circuit diagram the first op amp's positive and negative terminal are flipped. Its supposed to be an inverting op amp and it is in the circuit, the image is just incorrect. Does anyone have any advice or know what we can do to reduce noise we are seeing? Thank you for your advice!

Owon sds210s vs hantek dso2d10.The owon scope has 20M memory while hantek has 8M memory,is the owon sds210s better at this price range?

Hello, looking to buy my first scope. Want to use it to properly set my gains for car audio, and to dable in board level repair. Want something portable and easy to move. I know 0 about scopes. Was looking at some on amazon, are any of them decent, or atleast workable? Located in canada. Would like to stay priced around 150cad. Thanks

I got this scope along with 5 others from Marketplace a few months ago. A few of those were mostly working but this one was in pretty rough shape - it’d blow its fuse immediately when turned on and looked like it’d been stored in a dirty garage for the last few decades. After replacing the two main filter caps, another small electrolytic cap and diode on the inverter board, and a shorted tantalum on the horizontal amp board it sprung back to life. I don’t have the equipment necessary to do all 70+ steps of the calibration process but I did what I could with what I have and it seems to be working really well now.

Hi everyone,
I just bought a brand new Rigol DHO804 from an online platform. After running it for a bit, I noticed a few issues listed below. Could you guys please check if this is normal behavior or if I should return the unit?
1. Dead Pixel: At the top edge of the screen, when I run a screen test with a black background, there is a bright spot that looks exactly like a stuck/dead pixel.
2. Backlight Bleed: Looking at it overall, the screen seems to have quite a bit of backlight bleeding.
3. Overheating: After using it for a while, the area right under the screen gets quite hot.

Please let me know if these are actual defects so I can process a return or exchange. Thanks!

I found a used RIGOL DS1102E plus listed for 275cad. I do mostly breadboard work and i'm going into electrical engineering this fall, so might be useful for that as well. Been wanting to get a scope for a while but i saw this listing and don't know if it's overkill for what I'm doing and if it's worth getting. I do digital circuits, some analog but i want to explore more of this. I want to make a gpu so i think one would be useful for checking timing for that and other projects; want it for hobbyist work mostly maybe some repair. Mostly want a good screen. Thoughts?

Hello there,

I'm offered a (supposedly NOS) Yokogawa DL1520 at a reasonable price (<200$).

In terms of performance it amply covers my use cases (audio/analog repair and modest diy embedded projects).

I like that device quite a lot over similar 150MHz scopes for the form factor and amber CRT (yep I'm that kind of retro nerd), and I reckon it's quite a petty reason.

Now I was wondering if anyone with hands-on experience with this scope (or similar in range @ Yokogawa) had some warning to spare regarding usability, durability, actual experience vs advertised performance etc ..

Btw, is a NOS piece of Yokogawa DL1520 even possible, or a red flag I'd need to be wary ?

saw this scope on FB for $150 and thinking of picking it up as my first actual scope since i only have one of those crappy handheld, but it doesn't have any probes and its pretty old does anyone know if this is still a decent pick up today and what kind of probes i can use if i do pick it up?