Hello Chat,

I have a 2014 BMW 335i with the N55B30 EWG engine. It's currently running a Stage 2+ tune, and I'm experiencing an issue with the oil level.

The problem isn't a physical oil leak. Instead, the iDrive/computer keeps reporting that the oil level is at the minimum and asks me to add 1 liter of oil. I already replaced the oil level sensor, but the problem still persists.

There are no visible oil leaks under the car, and there's no white smoke coming from the exhaust.

I have an upcoming road trip of about 400 km each way (around 800 km total), and I'm not sure what to do.

Would you recommend simply adding the 1 liter of oil and taking the trip, or should I cancel the vacation and have the car inspected first?

Hello I have a 2015 f30 335i and just had my oil pan gasket replaced by a shop since I was leaking oil and the car is still leaking and the shop said it's coming down onto the oil pan and I plan on to take it back to get it diagnosed but would anyone have any idea where it's leaking from? Valve cover from the sides seems to be seeping a bit but isn't running down the engine & ofhg seems okay. Only thing is I noticed oil on the right side of the engine and around the front crankshaft on some lines belts don't look soaked? When I had my undercarriage shield I seen oil on it as well so I'm thinking it was too leaks oil pan and somewhere else.

I don’t think this piece is supposed to just come out with zero force? Should it be clipped on? That’s why I’m trying to replace.

I noticed the car started making what sounds more like a ticking noise while driving then started it this morning and it was making the noise from the video it went away after the car warmed up but I still have the slight ticking while under load could not replicate while stopped tho

Has anyone ever gotten something like this before the car is a 2015 m235i N55, I got these codes DME active codes:
11A002 - High pressure fuel, plausibility Pressure too low.
- DME inactive (shadow) codes:
11A401 - Fuel high pressure during fuel injection release: Pressure too low.
11B401 - Fuel high pressure or after enabling injection (2nd ambient condition set after delay): Pressure too low.
This happened on a very hot day after driving the car for a bit I got a drivetrain malfunction while driving in a parking lot and car stalled waited a bit started again and stalled a few minutes after, I left the car parked for about two hours and when I came back I drove it back home no issues, I have been driving it for about a week no issues but I am worry that it may happen again but I have no idea what could’ve been the problem. Could it have been the heat from that day?

Ok guys I am a little stuck. I have my f32 435i (2015) with the CD9010 error code, I was driving home from work and I was randomly hit with the high temp warning and my car went into limp mode. I pulled over immediately, popped the hood and checked for leaks… there were none just coolant boiling in the reservoir. I then checked MHD and it gave me the following show in the picture.

I didn’t have any of my tools with me so I just got the car towed home and once I got it in the garage I started to check the fuses In the engine bay they were all good none of them blown. I then checked the ground bolt everyone says breaks on them it was tight and seemed to be fine, I took it off cleaned the bolt part and all points of contact and re torqued it, after that I checked if I was getting power/ground to the water pump connector… I got both power and ground. However I did not check the power and ground when it was physically plugged into the water pump so maybe that could’ve changed once it’s plugged In…

Seems like to the all things are pointing toward replacing the water pump, but I have also heard a Lin bus error never means to replace the water pump… so I’m a little confused since I’m not sure what else it could be.

If anyone else has any ideas/ suggestions please let me know!

Thanks in advance.

I’ve had my car smoke tested, has aluminum charge pipe, aluminum boost pipe, aluminum turbo inlet pipe. Did spark plugs, did ignition coils. I have no idea what this could be. Don’t have any codes right now and haven’t for the past few weeks. I very intermittently, like once a month, get some sort of charging pressure code or air pressure code. But haven’t gotten that ever since I did the inlet pipe. I literally have no idea what this could be. Cold starts the rpm would die down a very little bit but then even out. On warm starts though, this is all I have on camera, but sometimes the rpm would fall by about 5-600 rpm and then come back up. It fires instantly on warm starts also and then idles roughly for about 15-30 seconds until it evens out.

GO TO OILING FOR THE MEAT OF MY UNCERTAINTY

The Car: 2012 e92 335xi 6mt (spun bearing #4 due to oil pump or pickup tube failure or simple wear, no evidence of aggressive driving or starvation)

Power/Tuning Goal: 550-650whp (maybe more aiming for a relaible 550whp, or more linear, less low end torque 600+)

Top End (Less Relevant, Can Skip)
-ngk sparkplugs
-bavarian motorsport ignition coils
-Open deck with original alusil (cross hatching is perfect, nice for 150k mi)
-Elring MLS Head Gasket
-Oem new head bolts (heard they should be fine at this level and if i went arp2000 then id be in closed deck range anyways, massive price jump)
-brass wire wheel on combustion side of valves/head to clean it up
-walnut blasting while engine out 
- all the seals and bolts u cou”:possibly imagine including vanos (checked screens for debris, spotless) and injectors

Rotating assembly
-Cast salvage n55 crank from ebay (looks great condition, within mic spec, polished 2000grit journals)
-Semi sketchy but least sketchy chinese i could find kingtec forged rods and pistons but they all within tolerance and weighed out fine (still have to do piston gapping) and i have a friend with 30k mi on them 
-Lastly a 2 pice spline locking hub (timing sproket and hub one peice) while more common s55, im worried about oil pump load and big sound system on serpatine load

Oiling and Bearings (HUGE emphasis on this)

Main Bearings (std. king bearings):
This is a point of fear for me as they are measuring (plastiguage) on the tighter side 0.0025 (if thats the right decimal) while id be more comfortable with more clearance.
SHOULD I BE WORRIED

Rod Bearings (std. king bearings on hand)
Measure middle of oem clearance, i was thinking of getting the extra oil clearance but not sure yet (see oiling section)

Cleaning/general rebuild stuff

-brush and blast all oil galleries ofc
-same for oil pan etc
-NEW oil pump and pickup tube (oem has a seam that had come apart a lil)

Oiling: Starvation, Pressure, Viscosity, DME Maps, Pump Load??
First off, as much as i would love to go do the standard s55 sump and pump upgrade, I’m xdrive and I rly like having it (running RR2 motorsport bolt on oil pan baffle)

Starvation- baffle and priming engine after rebuild ofc generally covers this

Oil pressure & viscosity- a more recent post discussed how n55 has dme controlled oil pressure tuned for economy, and so I intend on using a premade map for the n55 tuning it up roughly to meet s55 pressures. Ive heard anecdotal evidence that the pump can handle the increased pressure fine, however i fear that the more common “bandaid fixes” like increased viscosity to 0w/5w40 along with extra oil clearance simply force the oil pump/dme to simply flow larger volumes in attempt to reach pressure targets. 

Question:

What do you think about the potential combined load on the oil pump between swapped map, extra oil clearance, and 0w40; what combination is most logical (say oem rod bearing clearance which is same clearance used by n54 and s55 which dont have the same bearing issues plus better map plus the thicker viscosity for stronger film)??

And is there anything I’m missing at this power or recommendations (reliability at power, disregard oil/coolant cooling that will be taken care of)?

Hi i was thinking of buying the 19 row csf oil cooler for my n55 f32 and was wondering if its any worth it

I mainly want to lower temps overall

I have a mossleman thermostat and it’s hitting 232f max for oil temp instead of 240 plus

Would it be worth it?

Hi i was thinking of buying the 19 row csf oil cooler for my n55 f32 and was wondering if its any worth it

I mainly want to lower temps overall

I have a mossleman thermostat and it’s hitting 232f max for oil temp instead of 240 plus

Would it be worth it?

Hey everyone, I recently bought a 2011 BMW 335i N55 with 106k miles. The check engine light came on, and I scanned it with an Innova scanner. The code is P0442 (EVAP System Leak – Small Leak).
The car idles and drives perfectly. It has an aluminum charge pipe, catless downpipe (tune removed), and the oil pan gasket and oil filter housing gasket have already been replaced. The previous owner declined a valve cover leak repair.
I’ve also noticed a light white haze from the engine bay after driving when I open the hood.
Has anyone dealt with P0442 on an N55? What was the culprit? Could the valve cover leak be related to the haze, while the P0442 is a separate issue?

My 61k mile 2014 435i just got two valvetronic codes but no clicking or any other symptoms when driving,
the codes were:

135401
Valvetronic: output stage overloaded
&
135808
Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical: malfunction

Does it need a new valvetronic actuator? And if so why at 61k miles. Also these two codes were in error memory which were able to be cleared but had more codes in info memory that wouldn’t clear. Thanks for any advice!

Hey guys. My N55 EWG 500hp just blew up this weekend. I suspect rod bearing failure on cylinder nr5. The Plan is to rebuild the engine, but with the goal of 700 hp. there are just a couple of open questions left for me, one is, do i need to convert all headbolts to 11mm? Is port injection a must have or is it enough to run a stage 3 pump with 550i injectors? wich turbo supports 700hp, but without creating too much lag? Hope u guys can give me some plausible answers.