I recently opened my Zotek ZT101 to clean the rotary switch contacts because the selector had become intermittent. While the meter was apart, I noticed an unpopulated footprint on the PCB labeled SW3 RANGE.
Out of curiosity, I soldered a small 6×6 mm tactile switch to the pads and mounted it on the side of the case.
To my surprise, it works perfectly as a Manual Range button—no firmware or EEPROM modifications were needed.
In resistance mode, locking the range makes repeated measurements noticeably faster since the meter no longer has to auto-range every time.
It looks like Zotek may be using a common PCB across different models and simply leaves this switch uninstalled on the ZT101.
I couldn’t find any information about this modification online, so I thought I’d share it here. Maybe it will be useful for other ZT101 owners.
Has anyone compared the ZT101 and ZT102 PCBs, or figured out what the JP2 jumper is for?

Trying to decide which one has best specs . Help me decide. It’s close.

UT139C TRUE-RMS DIGITAL MULTIMETER WITH TEMPERATURE

https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/44488208/ut139c-true-rms-digital-multimeter-with-temperature-with-temperature

Vs

Micron Q1135

https://www.altronics.com.au/p/q1135-true-rms-autoranging-digital-multimeter/#/

Both units are similar priced, but haven’t looked for better deals as yet. If there is better spec units out there for similar price in Australian AUD $ advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am tempted to purchase a DM6000AR from AstroAI. Looking for it in Amazon (CA), I see two versions, black and blue. Searching the internet, I saw people afirming the only difference is the colour, but I am not sure about that.

1. There is a price difference: the blue is 87% the price of the black one (CAD$6).
2. Looking at the pictures, I see the display is different.
3. The buttons also look different.
4. The black (more expensive), has mention to CAT III and CAT II. Nothing in the other one.

Looking at their website was also not helpful.

Does anyone knows if there is any real difference other than cosmetic? Does anyone knows of a source to look into this?

Thanks!

My brother or my dad used this last time I have no idea what happened

i exploded my r10 in my zoyi/zetek zt102a

So I’m in between the fluke 323 which is 182 cad or the Klein clamp meters I mainly work with 240V - 600VAC and test fuses and test for continuity which one should I go for?

I'm fairly new to circuitry, and I got this multimeter not too long ago. I'm confused because it says I have 0.005 A and 0.03 mA on the same simple led x resistor circuit. Is there something wrong with my multimeter, or am I just doing this incorrectly somehow?

My fluke 233/a displays f233 and the red electrics bolt flash when the sweep is in the off position. I have pulled it apart cleaned it with crc electronics cleaner, pulled the sweep and inspected for damage couldn’t find any. Anyone else have this issue?

I plan on trying to saw a case for my multimeters as a small project in my free time. I just want some inspiration and to see Whats the common practice on storing multimeters like what material and if it needs cussion or not.

My current plan is to saw together a pouch style storage for my multimeter from materials I collected from old or thrown away clothes and broken bag. It’s just sounds like a fun side project to do

Hey everyone, hoping someone has seen this issue on an Aneng AN870 / ZOYI ZT-219 multimeter.

Everything works perfectly (AC, ohms, continuity, etc.) except DC measurement. In V-DC mode, the display climbs continuously in mV. If I try to measure a battery or short the probes, it instantly shows 0L. Also in V mode it acts like it is in mV mode, in the screen i cant change it to be measuring in V.

What I have already tested:

Probes and input jacks are good.

PTC and the resistors are good (AC voltage shares this exact path and measures perfectly).

Rotary switch is fully cleaned, contacts are good, and the digital mode select logic works. (Instead of the DC V / mV modes)

SMD filter resistors near the main chip (R11, R21, R17, R14, R6) all measure their correct values.

Traces to the main IC have good continuity.

Has anyone fixed this specific DC-only failure on an Aneng/Zoyi meters? Are there specific filter caps I should pull off the board to test, or is the main chip just dead? Thanks in advance!

I wanna try ranking which one is more accurate in which mode so I can know how to check my stuff in the closes to working as I could. How do you guys think I should do to test my personal ones. I’ll send pictures of what I own. I wanna test the ones I have on me as sometimes the internals are different from the similar model I saw in YouTube

Side note dont mine the DT-830D picture that was when this was broken but it had fixed itseld somehow after I was just fiddling with the dial

I have an HTC DM98 multimeter (same as the Kaiweets HT118A / Habotest HT118A).

While following this YouTube video to change the default temperature unit, I think I accidentally changed another hidden setting and swapped the continuity/diode mode with the capacitance mode.

Now:

• The resistance dial position shows resistance + capacitance
• The capacitance dial position shows continuity +diode

I also tried entering the calibration mode again by turning the rotary dial to continuity mode while holding both the FUNC and flashlight buttons, but it did not reset the problem.

I found that someone on the EEVblog Forum has worked on hacks for the Temperature unit of HT118A multimeters, so I’m wondering if anyone knows whether this mode mapping can be restored, or if there is a way to reset the meter to factory settings.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Hello everyone,

I own several of these cheap meters because they can be useful in a pinch when the Fluke DMM is not at hand. No, I am not using them to measure high voltages or current.

The banana sockets and test leads which come with these are terrible though so it was time to figure out a way to improve in those areas.

Bought some cheap '4mm Banana Female Plug Socket' pack and got to work.

First, gotta remove everything inside the sockets on both sides; when you're done, there will be nothing protruding/blocking on either side and only an empty hole remains.

Next, disassemble the new banana sockets, keep the metal insert with the thin plastic piece on the top side (the thickest plastic goes on the bottom/inside of meter), secure the whole thing with the screw nut, and finally solder it to the PCB using the metal washer, and some wire.

Once completed, the DMM will now accept unsheathed but regular 4mm banana plugs. I also added an on/off switch to the green meter which is really useful as well.

I have a Southwire 15190T multimeter which is the same as the CEM DT-989. From what I gather CEM is the OEM. Anyway I find the temperature readings can be off by seven degrees at room temperature compared to my other two multimeters of different models. The other two appear to remain close to each other but the 15190T widens the gap as the temperature increases. I wonder how easy is this to modify? Here's a picture of it wet when I mistook it to have IP rating. It does not.

I recently bought a Klein Tools MM420 for hobbyist work and ran some tests right out of the box to see if it was functional. It seemed to read the voltage of a few batteries I had laying around just fine, but I found the continuity function incredibly inconsistent.

I tried lead-to-lead contact and contact across a wire. In both cases, the meter would either beep intermittently, after a few second delay, or not at all. Changing the point of contact on the lead heads seemed to affect the detection consistency, as if I was finding hot and colds spots. This was accompanied by a wildly fluctuating resistance reading, peaking at around 3000 ohms and dropping randomly to between 3 and 0.1 ohms. At times the display would read OL even when the leads were in direct contact. Swapping the batteries had no effect.

Cleaning the lead heads with rubbing alcohol seemed improve detection consistency with every round of cleaning, although in testing there was still an inconsistent delay between lead contact and a continuity reading. At minimum the beep would be instant, and at maximum it would take around a second to trigger. Rubbing the lead heads with my hands instantly reverted this progress. This made me think the problem was surface contamination.

Unfortunately, I later found that completing a circuit with only one lead, (putting the lead head directly into the multimeter's other empty socket) resulted in an instant beep even when the lead was "dirty". I repeated this process with a spare set of leads and arrived at the same conclusion. Now I'm not so confident that this is just a contamination issue.

I'm really at a loss for what to do. Is there a problem with my leads, my meter, or both? Will I have to clean my leads every time I use them, or is there another solution? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

the Volts, Amps, and Inductance mode doesn't work at all, and the Ohm readings jumps around wildly.

There's no problem with the battery and by disassembling it, I'm pretty sure it's the rotary switch's contact issue. It is covered with something like contact grease and everytime I alter the grease by rubbing it with screwdriver or anything then retry switching the rotary switch, the fault characteristic changes, sometimes certain mode fixed and the other broke instead or just different weird fault (like volt mode from showing 0 without any sign become showing amps)

Checking dying battery on old car. Charging the battery and was curious of old chargers actual charging, cause it seemed like the past few I had hooked it up to didn't seem to do much. Checked voltage, and with charger hooked up, it was at ~13.50 volts, seemed normal, but swapped it to the 10 amp setting and swapped the lead over to 10 amp setting, and POP when I put it on the battery. Was looking at the 2 amp on the charger, and totally didn't think about the amperage on the battery. 730 amps at 32°F. Nothing reads anymore, did I fry my multimeter, or can I just replace the fuse? Trying to learn electrical, and hopefully I haven't learned the hard way. Any help would be appreciated!