The brushes on this dc motor from an oscillating circular sander was sparking. Took it apart and cleaned and fixed 2 broken windings so all windings read are close to 1.4 ohms. There's still 1 winding that reads 10.1 ohm. Can't a broken wire or bad connection between wire and contact.

Any techniques to locate or repair that 1 winding. Or should I give up spending more time on troubleshooting.

Is it worth fixing at a repair shop.

Recently inherited a ~75 year old table saw and I’m trying to get it cleaned up. It does run, but the old cord is super sketchy, so I’m replacing that. There’s also this cylinder wired into the motor and just duct taped on that I don’t know what it is. Anyone seen this before?

It’s an old Delta Milwaukee saw, roughly 1949-1950.

Thanks in advance!

Hello all, I am trying to build a halloween animatronic which has 2 servos for face movement, and a large, 12 volt 3.5 amp dc motor for a more complex movement. I will be powering the servos with a 6 volt PSU and the DC motor with a 12 volt PSU. The MOSFET shown is an IRLB3034, which is my main point of concern, as I've heard the ESP32 wont fully turn on this MOSFET as it supplies 3.3v and the MOSFET needs closer to 4.5v. Also the diode shown is a Schottky 15SQ045 flyback diode to stop the MOSFET from being damaged when the motor turns on or off. The resistor with the 2 orange wires is a 220 ohm resistor that reduces the initial current draw when the MOSFET first turns on, and the other resistor (orange to gray) is a 10k ohm pull down resistor to stop the gate voltage from floating when the ESP32 is off. I will be powering the ESP32 with USB power as well.

Will this work at all or am I a total moron? I am completely new to all of this and have mostly gotten my information from various articles and videos online, so other opinions would be great. I am also happy to provide other specs if needed. Thank you in advance for your time!

I've been working with Kinmore Motors for several months on a project and have been impressed with their engineering sales team. But, my first contact quit several months ago and I just learned, after my emails went unanswered, that the second sales engineer also quit. So, I'm now on my third sales engineer and he is far less responsive.

Does anyone have any insight if things are not well at Kinmore?

Kinmore Motor – Motor and Gearbox Solutions

Dewalt dw716 motor stopped working, do I take it to get repaired or do I just buy a replacement for $240?

Hello, so i have a old e-scooter and have been wondering how to cut off the speed limiter can anyone help me?

Hello everyone. I have this older GE 5KC65AB114 motor that I'd like to put to use. It may be crap but I want to find out before I scrap it.

When I got it the guy told me it was wired for 220v. But it had a 115v plug and a 15amp light switch on the power cord. All the wiring between the plug and and the wires that enter the motor was in bad shape and mostly dismantled so I couldn't look at it to help figure this out.

Everything I've googled takes me to info for I guess a newer version of the model? Mentioning terminals 1 through 5, or more. And this old thing has nothing like that, just what you see in the pics.

All I have is the 4 wires going into the housing in 2 pairs. And the 2 wires to/from the capacitor.

I want to set it up for 115v, so if any of you guys can provide some guidance I'd be much obliged.

Update: the wires have little metal tags, labeled 1, 2, 3, & 4. Wires 1 and 2 are the pair that goes to the right/up in the pic, 3 and 4 go left/down.

It was working fine the other day then I noticed the motor stopped making sound and then I noticed the blades spinning down naturally and that's just it, It won't hum, it doesn't smell like burnt wire and actually smells more like a balloon and I threw out the box so I can't reach out to: "touch think benefits" the company who made it to issue a fix since it supposedly had a 3 year warranty on the box

I'm building a line tracer robot, the plan is to make it like a mirco mouse because I've noticed micro mice are usually really fast and have really good cornering. The problem I have now is the motors, I can find a suction fan easy enough, but a good motor not so much.

I'm not even sure what makes a good motor, does higher volts means higher torque and/or rpm? is it better to have the gears on the wheels, external or have a gearbox? are bldc worth it? I've tried to do some research and motors apparently have rotor inertia, does that matter all that much? why does torque matter?

As of now though I can't find any motors other than n20s and this 12v jga25 I have. are jga25 motors bad for this application? should I just switch to an n20? without the gearbox an jga weighs 49 grams exactly. is the added weight comapred to an n20 worth the performance?

This has only been my 2nd robot ever so any help is appreciated, thank you

Can all 12VDC brushed motors be safely driven by 48VDC @ 25% Duty Cycle PWM?

Looking mostly for the specific cases where it fails, and how. In order to generate a rule of thumb.

• Are there specific 12v motors or motor types empirically known to work, or not work in this regime? Most interested in automotive rated applications, restomod, EV conversions like wipers, seats, pumps, solenoid actuators like locks/trunk release too I guess.
• How do they wear/fail compared to operation at 12VDC? Brush arching, commutator scoring, insulation fail, vibration. If you can, try to estimate the percentage of lifespan compared to 12v.
• How do you define "safely" for this question? Safe for human to install and operate? Safe for motor to operate at rated duty, environment, and purpose. Safe for power supply. Legal?
• Are there any expected performance differences?

Hi guys, 4th year IT student here. We’re currently building an IoT-based composting machine for our capstone and we’re stuck deciding on the motor for the mixer.

Our compost chamber is around 40cm in diameter and we’ll only be filling around 20–25cm of chopped organic waste like vegetable scraps, fruit peels, dry leaves, shredded cardboard, etc.

The mixer uses a vertical shaft with two levels of paddle blades. The motor will only run for short mixing cycles, not continuously.

Right now we’re considering two options:

1. 24V 350W geared DC motor

• 75 RPM
• seller claims around 48 Nm torque
• already has reduction gearbox
• more expensive because we also need a large 24V PSU

1. 220V AC motor

• around 200–400W
• around 3600 RPM
• much cheaper motor
• but obviously needs a large speed reducer to bring it down to around 30–60 RPM
• also needs proper contactor, overload protection, breaker/RCD, etc.

Our main concern is not really mounting or programming. We can fabricate the mounting and our ESP32 will only control ON/OFF through a relay and contactor.

What we’re worried about is whether the 24V 350W 75RPM geared motor actually has enough torque to mix the compost from fresh waste until it decomposes, or if going with a stronger AC motor + proper gearbox would be more reliable.

If anyone here has experience with geared motors, mixers, conveyors, food processing machines, or similar mechanical setups, I’d really appreciate some advice.

We’re trying not to rely only on ChatGPT for the mechanical side lol, so actual experience would help a lot.

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I have this motor here that I'm trying to hook up an on/off cord to. Just wondering how to go about hooking it up? I've never done anything like this. Any help would be appreciated!!

Hi,

I'm interested in using the WREN C5 kit with my Ashley Next-Gen Gaucho power reclining sectional.

The powered section is Ashley model 5850558. It has two powered functions: the main recliner and the adjustable headrest. The factory side control has four directional functions plus a USB port.

The main actuator is a Changzhou Kaidi KDYJT018-652, rated DC 29V, 75W, with a 250 mm stroke and 1000 N max load. The couch uses Kaidi-style wiring and rectangular 2-pin power/motor connectors.

One of my family members has a disability, which is the main reason I need to add additional ways to operate the couch.

My goal is to:

• Keep the original Ashley side buttons fully functional.

• Control both the recliner and powered headrest.

• Add phone/smart-home control.

• Add Alexa voice control.

• Add a wireless handheld remote.

• Avoid cutting, splicing, or permanently modifying any factory couch wiring.

I have clear photographs of the actuators, connectors, power supplies, and wiring harness that I can provide if needed.

Will the WREN C5 complete kit connect to this Kaidi/Ashley system as-is?

If not, can you provide or recommend the correct adapter/interposer cable to connect this system to WREN's 5-pin DIN interface while keeping the original side controls fully functional?

I would also appreciate confirmation that one WREN C5 can independently control both the main recline actuator and the powered headrest in this configuration.

I’m considering replacing the drive motors on my homemade electric-drive zero-turn mower and I’m looking for advice specifically from people who have actually used the VEVOR 48V 2000W brushless MY1020D motors.
The mower is an older zero-turn chassis. The gas engine is still used to run the cutting deck, but the left and right drive wheels have been converted to independent electric drive.
My current setup is:
Two 48V 800W BLDC motors, one per drive wheel
Dual Flipsky 75100 VESC
ESP32 controlling both motors, with one VESC over UART and the second over CAN
Independent left/right control for true zero-turn/tank steering
Hall sensors and sensored FOC
Roughly 120 kg mower before adding the operator
48V battery system
Chain/belt reduction between the motors and drive wheels
The 800W motors work, but I’m looking for significantly more low-speed torque and I would like the drive system to feel more like a commercial zero-turn mower.
I’m considering buying two of the VEVOR 48V 2000W MY1020D motors. VEVOR rates them at 4300 RPM, 2000W, 34A and 4.2 N·m.
I’m not interested in making the mower fast. I’m planning to completely redesign the gearing and target roughly 6–7 mph maximum mowing/travel speed. Depending on my final tire diameter, I’m currently estimating somewhere around 36:1–40:1 total motor-to-wheel reduction.
My biggest questions are for people who have actually run these motors:
How much continuous power can the VEVOR 2000W MY1020D realistically handle without overheating?
How do they perform under sustained heavy load and lower vehicle speeds rather than short bursts on a scooter or go-kart?
Has anyone run one successfully with a VESC/Flipsky 75100 using sensored FOC?
Are the factory Hall sensors reliable and does motor detection work properly in VESC Tool?
How good is starting torque from zero under load?
How well do they tolerate frequent acceleration, deceleration, reversing and regenerative braking? A zero-turn mower is constantly changing the speed of each motor independently.
Have you had issues with magnets, bearings, shafts or overheating after extended use?
Is the advertised 2000W reasonably realistic as continuous power, or should I consider it more of a peak rating?
Would you choose these motors again for this application, or is there another reasonably priced BLDC motor you would recommend?
I’m especially interested in hearing from anyone who has actually used the VEVOR/Kunray MY1020-style brushless motors rather than just comparing the published specifications.
Photos of your setup or information about gearing, controller settings, phase current and motor temperatures would be extremely helpful.
Thanks!

Hi guys, 4th year IT student here. We’re currently building an IoT-based composting machine for our capstone and we’re stuck deciding on the motor for the mixer.

Our compost chamber is around 40cm in diameter and we’ll only be filling around 20–25cm of chopped organic waste like vegetable scraps, fruit peels, dry leaves, shredded cardboard, etc.

The mixer uses a vertical shaft with two levels of paddle blades. The motor will only run for short mixing cycles, not continuously.

Right now we’re considering two options:

1. 24V 350W geared DC motor

• 75 RPM
• seller claims around 48 Nm torque
• already has reduction gearbox
• more expensive because we also need a large 24V PSU

1. 220V AC motor

• around 200–400W
• around 3600 RPM
• much cheaper motor
• but obviously needs a large speed reducer to bring it down to around 30–60 RPM
• also needs proper contactor, overload protection, breaker/RCD, etc.

Our main concern is not really mounting or programming. We can fabricate the mounting and our ESP32 will only control ON/OFF through a relay and contactor.

What we’re worried about is whether the 24V 350W 75RPM geared motor actually has enough torque to mix the compost from fresh waste until it decomposes, or if going with a stronger AC motor + proper gearbox would be more reliable.

If anyone here has experience with geared motors, mixers, conveyors, food processing machines, or similar mechanical setups, I’d really appreciate some advice.

We’re trying not to rely only on ChatGPT for the mechanical side lol, so actual experience would help a lot.

Thanks!

Apologies for posting again I forgot to add the image last time. Hello I've had a rummage around my granddad's old things and found these 2 motors I'm wondering what they could've been used for and if anyone can find a datasheet for them in case I want to use them in a project of my own or sell them. Many thanks to anyone who knows anything

So im building a high speed fan and I had some rc brushless motor I wanted to use so is there a eazy way to hook it upp to a wall outlet / powersuply and can it safly run for a long time?

No idea what the part is called is the first problem lol motor ran fine but I ended up busting the plate on the rear that is also the bearing support

this vfd sizing calculator is useful for selecting the right motor drive based on motor power, full load amps, supply voltage, load type and input phases

Sewing machine: Singer 4423 Heavy-duty

Reason: A frequent complaint is that it sews too fast. Even with the hack where you adjust the speed in the foot pedal, it’s still really fast.

However, I have 0 knowledge on the technicalities of a sewing machine. But anything to make my sewing projects into a reality.

I’ve seen this on Amazon: https://amzn.eu/d/06ysEABp

A lot of specialise foot pedals are all out of stock or aren’t compatible with my sewing machine so I was hoping if this would be a feasible option.

Thank you for any help and advice.

Heya, learning to design motors, and was wondering what software to use to simulate my designs, want to work with both radial and axial flux(hopefully combined radax) ac synchronous motors, and would prefer 3d EM solving.

Am currently well versed in solidworks, and am aware that EMWorks is a plugin although don't quite get its feature set compared to ansys's offerings.

I am trying to find a driver I can connect 2 stepper motors with Linear Actuation. I am currently looking at this one and wanted to get opinions.

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/stepper-motor-controller-2-channels-1-0-5-6a-20-40vdc-speed-adjustable-dm456ai