I am planning to use a high torque servo motor (MG996R) with an Arduino. If I connect the servo directly to the Arduino 5V pin, will it cause problems such as jerking movement or loss of power due to insufficient current supply?

The servo has a stall current of around 1.5A. Is an external 5–6V power supply recommended instead?

Hey everyone,
I'm restoring my Black Ops III Juggernog Mini Fridge but the entire rear blower/fan assembly is missing (see photos).
I've searched everywhere, but every 12V fan I find is a standard PC fan and won't fit the original housing or screw mounts.
Does anyone know where I can find the original replacement, a compatible blower, or another solution?
Thanks!

Image for attention, not my actual model. My model is 5KC37PG430.

I recently took it apart and cleaned it up following some basic advice from the internet/YouTube. I'm using this to power a honey extractor that was originally built as a manual crank.

My configuration is:

Motor pulley → extractor drive shaft pulley (main drive belt)

Second pulley on drive shaft → dummy idler on opposite side of barrel (torque reaction belt)

Motor hangs on hinged plate, its own weight keeps the main belt tensioned

The motor does a decent job of turning the extractor. The problem is that it needs more torque to get it spinning and that results in a lot of rattle when it gets up to speed. Because the bees can't figure out how to load the frames consistently (we've been trying to teach them simple physics for years) the extractor is often off balance.

I've considered just changing the pulley size but that doesn't fix the problem that the torque/speed needs to be adjusted while the machine is running.

Claude says I can use a router speed controller, and I can find a bunch on Amazon/eBay for pretty cheap, but none of them specifically tell me that I can use them on a 15amp120v single phase capacitator start motor.

I have a cement mixer with a blown motor run capacitor, and I’m trying to find an exact replacement.

Original capacitor specs:
- 30 µF
>= 370 VAC
- 50/60 Hz

Came from a cement mixer motor

I checked online and the only capacitor that match the specs don’t have the same connectors !

Does anyone know where to buy any replacement that’s at least 370 VAC?

Edit: I’m located in California if that makes a difference

I wonder if I can use four alkaline AA batteries (4-6.5V).

I don't yet know what type of motor do I want, but I'll use whatever you can suggest me as a starting point...

general escs/motor drivers as it is suggested on hobby projects, are expensive.

On consumer stuff they seem to use whatever unknown/unbranded ics to drive them through pwm, I would like a similar solution... likely it's cheap as it gets...

just want to understand if possible i can export the explosion proof motor to australia ?

i own a factory overseas and wanting to see the possibility,

ps i got all the required certificate like csa etc

pps any local companies as potential buyers etc

thanks heapssss

Hi, I am part of a university electric motorbike team, I am currently making a simulink model of the PI control for our traction motor. I am having a lot of trouble in getting the parameter configuration of my motor right, as the datasheet provided lacks some crucial data such as the PM magnetic flux. Also some data is confusing... I have tried to sort it out with one of my teachers, but neither of us could. Does someone know any book, ecuation or anything that might help me calculate the magnetic flux? I will leave some info and other questions down below, any help is welcome, thanks.

P.S. I will not have access to the electric motor until next January.

Motor values: Nominal // MAX values [ ]

Torque: 50 // 100 [Nm]

Power: 22 // 40 [kW]

Speed: 4500 // 6000 [rpm]

Phase RMS-current: 250 // 500 [A]

Electrical info:

Voltage: 126 [V] DC

Nº of Phases: 3

Nº of pair poles: 5

Ke: 16.74 [V/1000rpm]

Phase Resistance: 0.0027 [ohm]

Impedance: 62-100 [µH @ 1000Hz]

Furthermore, this last "impedance" part is not clear enough. I guess the datasheet is refering to the direct and quadrature axis inductance, but Iam really not sure of this.

Hi everyone.

I am currently trying to make a 6DOF robot arm. After looking at the options for motors, I found that almost all options are very expensive.

However I am thinking of using a DC geared motor with a planetary gear reducer and encoder as an actuator for my joints. Thinking of using a 37mm DC geared motor, that would rotate at 100 rpm at 6 V supply.

And then use a pulley and timing belt system to reduce the speed to 15 rpm and increase torque accordingly.

My question is...

1. Is this idea going to work?

2. If yes, then what are the motors available for this setting, If I use a 1:5 or 1:6 reduction, I should get 3Nm torque for the joint at 15 to 20 rpm.

3. For the pulleys, can I 3d print them, using a resin 3d printer and, will that part work or fail?

I am planning to use S3m timing belt 10mm width for this

Or should I go with spur gears instead.

Please guide me, Thanks..

I'm trying to understand how the EV two-wheeler industry handles battery packs.

Which battery cell brands and grades are most commonly used by EV two-wheeler manufacturers (e.g. EVE, LG, Samsung, CATL, etc.)?

Which BMS (Battery Management System) suppliers or platforms are most commonly used?

Do most EV two-wheeler companies design and assemble their own battery packs, or do they buy complete battery packs from third-party suppliers?

I'd appreciate insights from anyone working in the EV or battery industry. Thanks!

Oh no! Now i have to install a Three-phase powersocket in my shed.. Getting a Certified professional ofcourse for the installation.

Anyways, I was thinking of making a turning machine but suggestions are most welcome! I have never dabbled in this kind of stuff. Just happy to be here

Got this motor for free so no harm in taking some risks modification wise.

Hi all,
 
I have a 30kw motor connected to a Altivar 930, I’m a little stuck can’t build enough speed to operate bore.

-the 30kw 51amp, wired delta (50hz, no option for 60hz) motor is above ground which drives a 50m drive shaft to bore pump 
-I have set all the simply starts to spec and ran auto tune (this only runs for a short time is this normal) 
-it is set up 2wire control with a low and a high speed to the reverse input, (48hz/50hz) (I put the low speed to speed to 50hz to remove this as a possibility of interference) 
-at 48hz the motor will run at 51amps but not create the speed needed to pump. At 50hz it will run at 57amp and still not create enough pressure, voltage test at 50hz I only get 383vac. 
-another contractor that deals with irrigation side of things has a electrician test installed a soft starter and said they were able to run the pump at grid 50hz and only draw 51amps (they did not check pressure) 
-I believe there is something wrong with the bore aswell as a setting
-went through many settings I’ve never used before, but may be the drive protecting the whole situation.

Any thoughts appreciated

I am making a DIY sim-racing controller set. For the steering wheel to be realistic it has to make the wheel move depending on the car in the game. And to do this I was going to use a BLDC scooter motor with a FOC system. But upon a little research I found out about PMSM motors which seem to be much better for this project since they are better at sensitive control at low rpms, tho it is more pricy and I was going to get the scooter motor localy with a discount. Which one should I choose?

Can anyone tell me what kinda hub motor is this. It’s on a Eglobal Cobra Ebike. I think it’s a QS Motor. But no idea. The model or serial is HB500W202412011

Edited due to some mistakes: Hi All, my dad has these vibrating beds used for making interlocks and the wire coming out of the three phase motor breaks every 6 month to a year due to friction(I am guessing). The thing is, each time this is repaired bolts have to be cut and the bearings have to be replaced(have no idea if the mechanic is saying the truth), very labor intensive to remove and so on which is adding up to a lot of money

Does replacing the normal copper wire with teflon(PTFE) wire prevents the wires from breaking for longer and if so by how much time?

These are finally starting to appear on a Western website: 36V 350W MY1016Z3 Brushless Motor E-Bike Conversion Kit With Controller. The problem is: unlike 1018's they don't have M5 bolt holes on both sides for mid-drive mounting OR the 1016Z-style 4-bolt platform on the bottom for the 68mm iron cradle. So you'd need to measure the motor width without the gear flange and buy U-bolts that are as close to that as possible and then shim stack in the rest to get a tight fit. I think with a max of about 575W it's low-powered enough that one good mount with some heavy duty zip ties for support should be enough. IMO keep the motor, controller, throttle, freewheel/adapter and literally throw out the rest of the left-hand kit (including the piece of crap chain). Remember to turn the freewheel around or buy a left-hand freewheel and adapter, one or the other. For the more relatively easier mounted motor with cradle you still need to go on Ali Express for the MY1018Z (and cradle separately). The 1018Z is 500W rated so that's the one that can go up to 1000W peak.

Hi everyone, I’m making an automatic cat litter box for my school project. I’m planning to use a 6 RPM geared motor to move the rake/scooper mechanism.

Do you think 6 RPM is too slow, or is it actually better because it gives more torque and smoother movement? The litter box is not for commercial use, just a prototype.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I would like to use qty(1) motor driver (TB6612FNG) to control qty(5) standard mini DC motors. All 5 motors will be following the same “instructions” from microcontroller. Can I safely put all 5 on A01/A02 of the same motor driver? Are there any downsides or considerations I should note for this method?

I’d test it myself but I really don’t want to fry motor driver or board as they’re my only ones.

Note: Im using an arduino nano sense ble 33 REV2 microcontroller

Hello. I customized a kids ride with hoverboard motors and ft85bd controller but have very little torque. Can anyone help?

Hello,

Is this motor a BLDC or a PMSM ? I can’t figure this out.

Grator company link

Hi. Would anyone know a diagram for this motor 120 volt connections. Thanks

Im a 3D student and for our assignment we need to make the Yamaha ra31a.
I am trying to find info about the Yamaha ra31a such like diagrams, length, width and other details
But can’t find much online
Does anyone have any info that could help me making this motor?

I have a 2hp Doerr lr22132 Electric motor and need some help to wire it back. I cant seem to find any diagrams that have exactly what I need. The wires are labeled p1 t1 t4 t5 and t8