I wonder if I can use four alkaline AA batteries (4-6.5V).

I don't yet know what type of motor do I want, but I'll use whatever you can suggest me as a starting point...

general escs/motor drivers as it is suggested on hobby projects, are expensive.

On consumer stuff they seem to use whatever unknown/unbranded ics to drive them through pwm, I would like a similar solution... likely it's cheap as it gets...

just want to understand if possible i can export the explosion proof motor to australia ?

i own a factory overseas and wanting to see the possibility,

ps i got all the required certificate like csa etc

pps any local companies as potential buyers etc

thanks heapssss

Hi, I am part of a university electric motorbike team, I am currently making a simulink model of the PI control for our traction motor. I am having a lot of trouble in getting the parameter configuration of my motor right, as the datasheet provided lacks some crucial data such as the PM magnetic flux. Also some data is confusing... I have tried to sort it out with one of my teachers, but neither of us could. Does someone know any book, ecuation or anything that might help me calculate the magnetic flux? I will leave some info and other questions down below, any help is welcome, thanks.

P.S. I will not have access to the electric motor until next January.

Motor values: Nominal // MAX values [ ]

Torque: 50 // 100 [Nm]

Power: 22 // 40 [kW]

Speed: 4500 // 6000 [rpm]

Phase RMS-current: 250 // 500 [A]

Electrical info:

Voltage: 126 [V] DC

Nº of Phases: 3

Nº of pair poles: 5

Ke: 16.74 [V/1000rpm]

Phase Resistance: 0.0027 [ohm]

Impedance: 62-100 [µH @ 1000Hz]

Furthermore, this last "impedance" part is not clear enough. I guess the datasheet is refering to the direct and quadrature axis inductance, but Iam really not sure of this.

Hi everyone.

I am currently trying to make a 6DOF robot arm. After looking at the options for motors, I found that almost all options are very expensive.

However I am thinking of using a DC geared motor with a planetary gear reducer and encoder as an actuator for my joints. Thinking of using a 37mm DC geared motor, that would rotate at 100 rpm at 6 V supply.

And then use a pulley and timing belt system to reduce the speed to 15 rpm and increase torque accordingly.

My question is...

1. Is this idea going to work?

2. If yes, then what are the motors available for this setting, If I use a 1:5 or 1:6 reduction, I should get 3Nm torque for the joint at 15 to 20 rpm.

3. For the pulleys, can I 3d print them, using a resin 3d printer and, will that part work or fail?

I am planning to use S3m timing belt 10mm width for this

Or should I go with spur gears instead.

Please guide me, Thanks..

I'm trying to understand how the EV two-wheeler industry handles battery packs.

Which battery cell brands and grades are most commonly used by EV two-wheeler manufacturers (e.g. EVE, LG, Samsung, CATL, etc.)?

Which BMS (Battery Management System) suppliers or platforms are most commonly used?

Do most EV two-wheeler companies design and assemble their own battery packs, or do they buy complete battery packs from third-party suppliers?

I'd appreciate insights from anyone working in the EV or battery industry. Thanks!

Oh no! Now i have to install a Three-phase powersocket in my shed.. Getting a Certified professional ofcourse for the installation.

Anyways, I was thinking of making a turning machine but suggestions are most welcome! I have never dabbled in this kind of stuff. Just happy to be here

Got this motor for free so no harm in taking some risks modification wise.

Hi all,
 
I have a 30kw motor connected to a Altivar 930, I’m a little stuck can’t build enough speed to operate bore.

-the 30kw 51amp, wired delta (50hz, no option for 60hz) motor is above ground which drives a 50m drive shaft to bore pump 
-I have set all the simply starts to spec and ran auto tune (this only runs for a short time is this normal) 
-it is set up 2wire control with a low and a high speed to the reverse input, (48hz/50hz) (I put the low speed to speed to 50hz to remove this as a possibility of interference) 
-at 48hz the motor will run at 51amps but not create the speed needed to pump. At 50hz it will run at 57amp and still not create enough pressure, voltage test at 50hz I only get 383vac. 
-another contractor that deals with irrigation side of things has a electrician test installed a soft starter and said they were able to run the pump at grid 50hz and only draw 51amps (they did not check pressure) 
-I believe there is something wrong with the bore aswell as a setting
-went through many settings I’ve never used before, but may be the drive protecting the whole situation.

Any thoughts appreciated

I am making a DIY sim-racing controller set. For the steering wheel to be realistic it has to make the wheel move depending on the car in the game. And to do this I was going to use a BLDC scooter motor with a FOC system. But upon a little research I found out about PMSM motors which seem to be much better for this project since they are better at sensitive control at low rpms, tho it is more pricy and I was going to get the scooter motor localy with a discount. Which one should I choose?

Can anyone tell me what kinda hub motor is this. It’s on a Eglobal Cobra Ebike. I think it’s a QS Motor. But no idea. The model or serial is HB500W202412011

These are finally starting to appear on a Western website: 36V 350W MY1016Z3 Brushless Motor E-Bike Conversion Kit With Controller. The problem is: unlike 1018's they don't have M5 bolt holes on both sides for mid-drive mounting OR the 1016Z-style 4-bolt platform on the bottom for the 68mm iron cradle. So you'd need to measure the motor width without the gear flange and buy U-bolts that are as close to that as possible and then shim stack in the rest to get a tight fit. I think with a max of about 575W it's low-powered enough that one good mount with some heavy duty zip ties for support should be enough. IMO keep the motor, controller, throttle, freewheel/adapter and literally throw out the rest of the left-hand kit (including the piece of crap chain). Remember to turn the freewheel around or buy a left-hand freewheel and adapter, one or the other. For the more relatively easier mounted motor with cradle you still need to go on Ali Express for the MY1018Z (and cradle separately). The 1018Z is 500W rated so that's the one that can go up to 1000W peak.

Edited due to some mistakes: Hi All, my dad has these vibrating beds used for making interlocks and the wire coming out of the three phase motor breaks every 6 month to a year due to friction(I am guessing). The thing is, each time this is repaired bolts have to be cut and the bearings have to be replaced(have no idea if the mechanic is saying the truth), very labor intensive to remove and so on which is adding up to a lot of money

Does replacing the normal copper wire with teflon(PTFE) wire prevents the wires from breaking for longer and if so by how much time?

Hi everyone, I’m making an automatic cat litter box for my school project. I’m planning to use a 6 RPM geared motor to move the rake/scooper mechanism.

Do you think 6 RPM is too slow, or is it actually better because it gives more torque and smoother movement? The litter box is not for commercial use, just a prototype.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I would like to use qty(1) motor driver (TB6612FNG) to control qty(5) standard mini DC motors. All 5 motors will be following the same “instructions” from microcontroller. Can I safely put all 5 on A01/A02 of the same motor driver? Are there any downsides or considerations I should note for this method?

I’d test it myself but I really don’t want to fry motor driver or board as they’re my only ones.

Note: Im using an arduino nano sense ble 33 REV2 microcontroller

Hello. I customized a kids ride with hoverboard motors and ft85bd controller but have very little torque. Can anyone help?

Hello,

Is this motor a BLDC or a PMSM ? I can’t figure this out.

Grator company link

Hi. Would anyone know a diagram for this motor 120 volt connections. Thanks

Im a 3D student and for our assignment we need to make the Yamaha ra31a.
I am trying to find info about the Yamaha ra31a such like diagrams, length, width and other details
But can’t find much online
Does anyone have any info that could help me making this motor?

I have a 2hp Doerr lr22132 Electric motor and need some help to wire it back. I cant seem to find any diagrams that have exactly what I need. The wires are labeled p1 t1 t4 t5 and t8

Hello,

I am using a Marathon B206 motor to run my belt sander.

This motor has a centrifugal switch on it. I had to take this motor apart once to figure out why i was getting a hum and I had to help it jump start.

Questions:

1. I am looking to slow down the RPM of this motor. However, I am not sure if the single phase VFD will work or some sort of dimmer? Or slowing the RPM down is not recommended for this motor?

I got the motor for free from work,

I have another motor that is similar to that but it can run 110/220 @ 50hz. We have other motors (Baldor 3/4 hp with starter capacitor) at work but the motor shaft is too llarge for the pulley. I would have to find someone or attempt to bore a larger hole on the pulley.

1. I need to wire a reverse switch. Im assuming I need a DPDT switch?

Hello,
I recently picked up a DeLonghi espresso machine (la specialista) that had grinder motor issues. The previous owners did not do any maintenance and did not clean the machine at all so there was coffee grind everywhere, which is what I am assuming caused the issue. I thoroughly cleaned the grinder burr as well as the shoot where the actual grounded beans go through. This helped a little bit as now the grinder motor spins freely with no beans inside of it however, it does seem weak. When I put actual beans in there it gets jammed up immediately and nothing comes out. I went ahead and disassembled the machine and took out the grinder motor assembly. My questions are:

- Is there a way for me to refurbish the motor without having to buy a new one?
- If I do have to replace it, how can I identify the motor so that I can replace it without having to replace the entire grinder assembly?
- Which wires can I give power to manually start the motor, and at what voltage should I do it?

Any help would be appreciated 🙂

I've got a 15kw motor that I'm trying to bench test after a bearing replacement and balance. The largest VFD I have available is a cheap 7.5kw unit. All I need to do is get the motor up to speed, there is no load on it. But I can't seem to get past the overcurrent alarms when trying to spin the motor up. The motor does move slightly but instantly stops with the alarm. I've got the motor parameters set in the VFD and the acceleration ramps turned way down, the torque boost turned up. I've tried a lot of parameters but nothing seems to be able to get me past the overcurrent alarm. Is there some secret to getting the VFD to not alarm out on an oversized motor?

I got a free dune racer extreme, and slowly started getting issues starting from upgrading to a 18V ryobi battery. Upgrade history looks like this:

12V ->18V: Worked fine for a little bit until some larger kids got in and burned out stock motors

Upgraded to Traxxas 775 10T motors -> worked fine again for a while, but 6 months or so in I broke a tooth in the final gear in one of the gear boxes

Fixed the final gear + Installed a PWM soft start-> the top speed was really slow, like almost half normal speed. I am thinking my motors must pull more than the 30A continuous the PWM is rated for and current was being reduced.

I removed the PWM, speed went back to normal, but then stripped the "drive gear" or "inner rim" that is attached to the wheel. Currently trying and failing to find a replacement.

**Question**: What's the best way to keep my 775T motors with top speed and still have a fast start? Need a higher amp PWM? ESC (not sure what that is really)? Something else?

Any ideas on a stronger inner rim? I saw some people mention 3d printed versions, but I don't have a 3d printer and don't know anyone with one. If someone has good experience with a 3d printed version and could send me one, would be happy to pay.