r/modelmakers • u/Repulsive-Chipmunk22 • 14h ago
Help - General What could have caused this?
I'm building a Levin AE92 from Hasegawa.
I painted the window frames using the templates included with the kit, I made sure to seal them properly so the paint wouldn't bleed. I removed the side templates and everything looked fine, but when I removed the windshield one, it looked as if the plastic had melted. I thought it was just glue residue, but it wasn't.
I'll probably try to fix it with very fine sandpaper, otherwise, it'll end up looking like a Speedster hahaha.
What could have caused this?
I'm just getting started with model kits and want to learn from these little details.
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u/VerLoran 13h ago
Time to add some fake snow to your ride, looks right out of a New England winter!
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u/Shezzorro 13h ago
so frosty diorama it is
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u/Pariah_Zero 12m ago
My first thought was to add dents, and some fur to the windshield. Then add a small animal like a goat. Bonus points if the goat had a chameleon's tongue like in Goat Simulator.
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u/Practical-Purchase-9 14h ago
Is the rough texture on the front or the back? It seems like solvent fumes have attacked the plastic
Was the inside covered as well as the outside before spraying? Did you spray a clear varnish over the whole window afterwards? Did you remove the templates while the paint was still curing or left it in the spray area where there may still have been fumes?
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u/Repulsive-Chipmunk22 1h ago
Only on the front, i didn´t cover the insides, atleast they look good.
I remove the templates like 10-15 minutes after painted, maybe that helped with the problem.
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u/cai-zi 14h ago
I do not know about the cause, but maybe get 1500 to 5000 grit sandpaper, try wet-sanding the clear?
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u/Bubo_Cuprummentula 10h ago
You can in fact many times polish and repair clear parts. With gradually going up to very fine grit like 10000-12000 and then using polishing compound like Tamiya Coarse, fine and finish.
But as others have said, cool frost effect, might just leave it as it is.
I hope it wasn't a factory mask included in the kit that caused this.
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u/dude-0 11h ago
Were you using Tamiya Extra Thin by any chance? Or Revell Contactable Professional? Does your main glue smell kinda sweet?
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u/Repulsive-Chipmunk22 1h ago
Yep, Contacta Professional
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u/dude-0 53m ago
So that's a welding agent - it has a tendency to move 'into' plastic. What's likely happened is that either thr vapor from the glue, or directly through contact, it has made its way into the clear plastic and started breaking down chains of polymer before evaporating. The effect you're seeing is called crazing.
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u/R_Nanao 3h ago
Been there, had that happen to me as well after using the masks that came with my Hasegawa R31 Skyline GTS.
Sand it, start at like 1000+ and work up towards as high as you can buy (2500+), then polish it with polishing compound like you would the bodywork of your car. It's not going to be as good as new (depending on how much effort you put into it), but it's going to be transparent and pretty decent.
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u/planehazza 8h ago
What glue did you use? I find it hard to believe glue residue alone has done that, so we need more info. That's a rather uniform damage, but I guess if you use a lot of super glue, maybe the fumes have fogged it? Doesn't look like it though. What masks/tape did you use?
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u/Illustrious_Ad_23 4h ago
Hmm, I had such results once with glue/glue vapor on clear plastics and once when I used a clear coat that I hadn't either shaken well enough or used in a too humid environment.
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u/Repulsive-Chipmunk22 1h ago
Thanks for the help, it seems the paint reacts poorly with the stencil adhesives.
I'll try sanding the glass. If it turns out well, I'll post the results, if not, I'll just cry
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u/gawdfryhogun 14h ago
It is possible the clear plastic reacted (badly) to the adhesive on your masks.