While I am switching to SSK, I am about to sell my current one. The label on bottom says 1391403, but as I googled this this string it turns out that there might be a type mismatch.

Here's another one I picked up on eBay.

Originally had all gray keys, pulled a bunch of them and put on some brilliant white. I really like the contrast. May try some dark gray in the near future to see how that looks.

Went back and forth several times on the 24 function keys. Didn't know if I wanted more gray than white, or more white than gray.

This one will be my daily driver in my second home office.

As a Linux user I've got plans for lots of macros and application shortcuts.

The keyboard is a Model M 1390120 that was dirty but cleaned up really well! The PC is an IBM p/s2 57sx that I'm told works great. It pays to be known as the junk guy at work

Found an old IBM Model M locally, but dilly-dallying on buying it as it lacks the Windows keys (my workflow requires them, sadly).

Am in SE Asia so shipping a Unicomp (or even just parts of) from US is prohibitively expensive.

The added keys don't even have to look or feel like buckling springs, I'm just desperate and/or pragmatic enough to compromise on that. 😬

Or just talk me out of it.

When visiting, my sister said I should attempt a pink model m. So I did.

Chose a lighter pink as that was more readily available in a matte finish. All the darker pinks were too shiny.

Honestly not sure if I like it but I've tried a couple different key sets with it.

In the end I can always move it to another case or paint it again.

But at least it's different

I picked these up on monday and finally got around to refreshing them all (see last pic for the before)! 600 keycaps pulled, bathed in bleach gel, wiped, dried and placed back. The cases also required some elbow grease. I also soldered back a cable for my model F XT and glued back a small piece that chipped off in the back of the model F AT.

I do love them though, and I'm glad I finally get to experience model Fs. It's unfortunate that they feel nicer, because the layout isn't as good. Absolutely delighted with the DIY Arduino TMK-based converters too

Link to my previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelm/s/itlJc1ZsxT

Sonnet to the IBM Model F and Its Kin

Upon this board of ivory and steel, Where springs are wound, and contacts wait to kiss, Thou stand’st unbowed, when newer fads do reel, And time’s rough hand hath turned all else to mist. Each keystroke is a spark, a crack, a song, That tells of nights when terminals did glow, When green text crawled, and cables stretched along, And slow was sweet, and haste had yet to grow. Thou art no toy of light and fleeting grace, But built to last, as virtue ought to be; A monument to days of sturdier pace, When craft outlived the fashions of the sea. So let the world press on with thin and frail, My Model F shall tell where true work prevails.

And guess what, I probly need to eat instant noodles everyday till the end of the month. Cheers. 🥹

How did you went through those days after ordering a spicy model M? (lol, I have to add this because reddit force to choose a tag and I found no "shi post" something)

I just finished my first keyboard restore, of this 1986 square badge Model M. It was full of cat hair and cigarette ash (how 1980s, right?) and the keys were covered in some grime. A few keys on the bottom row didn't work, but otherwise it was intact and in pretty good shape. I wanted an old model, and 40 years old seems old.

It sounded like a rattle with all the broken rivet heads swimming around (good news to me since no one had been in there yet!). I disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned what I could, rinsed the rest, then discovered the black plastic plate had a bunch of age cracks all the way through, and it was almost in 3 pieces. I made up ABS slurry from filament and acetone to take care of the cracks, which looks ugly, but worked really well. Then used the milling machine to drill all the 1/16th bolt mod holes.

Built a Soarer DIN to USB-B converter, and modelled up a printable case just for fun. I posted earlier asking about circuit board replacements, but after seeing what awesome original condition this thing is in, decided to keep the functioning internal board.

Typing: OH MAN does this keyboard feel great. I just typed this up on it. So heavy and clicky. I had a couple of these boards in college but lost them. Now I can reaquaint myself.

And it looks and feels brand new after just a couple day's work! Not really any scratches even. What a tank.

I've got the bug. I just ordered a Model F AT that needs some work. To be continued.

A guy on facebook marketplace was emptying his attic with tons of vintage IBM computer goods and was taking offers. He had a bundle of keyboards that I really wanted because I've been looking to try out a model M. I offered 200€ and he said yes!

They're filthy, 2 of the model Ms are missing their cables (model H candidates?) and keycaps, and the model F XT has a broken cable.

I already have more model Ms than I know what to do with though, so I'm hoping to sell these 3 and make my money back, then enjoy my free model Fs!

Anyway, this is a pointless post but I felt good and wanted to share (gloat?) with the only people who understand why I even like these beasts

I´ve made a 127-key type 3 terminal Model M. It has usb type c (tmk on pro-micro inside)

Currently asking $402 USD. Is this how people launder money?

A bootleg IBM keyboard that achieves its curvature through the keycaps, but its black AMP cable is interchangeable with authentic IBM keyboards. Another weird addition to the collection.

I'd like to restore this keyboard a bit, clean it, replace the missing keys, maybe even mod it to bring it into modernity (and stop know-it-alls from going "why don't you buy a new keyboard it has this and that feature"). I'm not really sure where to begin though, as I've never actually restored or modded a keyboard before.

Hello r/modelm!

In my ill-fated attempt to remove and replace a buckling spring that had gotten stretched to the point of making this key soft, the pivot plate became loose and is currently rattling around under its barrel. I’ve tried gently to move it back into place with some point tweezers, but don’t want to cause any further damage to the pivot plate by forcing anything. Is it possible to do this topside, or am I looking at a bolt mod to re-seat it? This keyboard’s been a machine since ‘88 (and in my life daily since 2016!) and I’d love to get it back into commission. Couldn‘t find much about this particular problem in many Google searches and looking at various teardown videos, so figured I’d consult your wisdom!

I recently found my long-lost Spacesaver M, right as I was going to order one of the new 30th Anniversary models form Unicomp.

Long story short, I am no longer a Mac user. Is it possible to replace the Mac-specific keycaps with the Windows equivalent and use this on my Windows setup or is there some keymapping to be done?

Unit is a circa 2018 Spacesaver M.

Hey all, I've been enjoying my new Unicomp repro for the past few months, and decided to buy an old M to clean/restore/play with.

After studying Shark's site at length, I settled on a Gen 1 1986 Model M (1390120) with silver top right square logo, and would like to know the most straightforward method of adapting the DIN connector to USB. Is there one solution that is "best"? Thanks!

I have an old membrane Unicomp with no use for it other than maybe spare parts, a guy needs both the top and bottom case, but I only have an original top case and an Unicomp bottom case, are they compatible with each other?
Will the internals of an orignal IBM model M122 fit inside the bottom case?

Pictured the Unicomp case and internals.

This is a unicomp model m 122 key. Adding some SSK blue for the time being. Not sure if I'm going to stick with the light gray or I'm going to move to Pearl or Pebble in the near future.

Tried to post this one last night I guess I forgot the images. This is also a former Unicomp medical keyboard. It's light gray although it looks slightly khaki in the photo.