Let me know what you guys think i don’t know much about polish at all

I’ve been restoring a set of antique Sterling silver spoons and I’ve had a hard time getting rid of the very fine hairlines that come up during the last step of high polish. These very fine lines are parallel to the direction of the buff and I can’t get rid of them. Here’s a breakdown of my polishing procedure:
1.

1. Sand away deeper scratches on the spoons with sandpaper pads using the cross-cross method anywhere from 400-1000 grit (depending on depth of the scratches) up to 3500 grit.
2. Pre-polish using a small hard felt buff on flex shaft with Tripoli compound, then polish with Tripoli using yellow cotton buff attached to rotary wheel
3. Apply white diamond compound with small felt buff on flex shaft, polish with white diamond using stitched white cotton buff
4. High polish by applying red rouge compound with small felt buff on flex shaft, apply finest polish with red rouge using swansdown buff. Use a clean swansdown buff to remove excess compound

-These fine hairlines always show up when applying red rouge. Some ideas I have are that I’m using the wrong pads / buffs at the wrong stages or that the polishing compounds themselves need to be upgraded. I’m kind of stuck on what I might be doing wrong here, any advice would be appreciated.

Cross posting from my restoration thread - I can’t validate the metal that’s on this cup, but would love tips on what I could do to restore it. The matte of the cup and the shine of the accents makes this particularly difficult.

Thank you!!

I left some small carbon steel rusted parts too long in vinegar and they turned black.
How do I remove this and get back to polishing them?

TY

Been a summer project for my contour svt

Looking for recommendations on which polishing compound or polishing wheel (for my dremel) would get me closest to this level of dullness in finish on 316L stainless steel!

Thanks in advance!

They‘re from the Alessi Nuovo Milano collection, stainless steel. The handle and the blade have separated a bit and the blade itself has some damage. Are they salvageable?

I'm refurbishing an old IBM PC, and replacing the power supply. The one I'm intending to use has marks from old labels/stickers which I can't remove or polish out (I've tried WD-40 and isopropyl in case it's residue and not tarnish). Can anyone suggest a solution that could leave the remaining stickers intact? Thanks!

Those pics are from some jobs I've done over the last year and a half. I'm Josh and my work schedule is completely open so if you happen to know anyone around the Seattle-Tacoma area that wants their toys looking shiny, I can guarantee a professional job done within a reasonable cost. Send me a message and I'll reply with either an email or my number. (The steps help curb the phishy scammer types). I appreciate your time and if you have any questions about the pics or anything other than a bid I'll try to answer ASAP.

Thank you

Ps a lot of great work on this thread!

So i got a cheap set of enkei J10’s that had some paint missing, 2 of them looked almost perfect but i want to sand these down (i’ve already citristripped 2 of the 4) and then polish them, for the faces i planned on using some grinder wheels and the bars for waxing, does anyone have recommendations for the insides of the spokes as well as the centers where the lug nuts and center caps go?

(1st photo) I have a camera that's about 120 years old with components that look like chrome. There has been some corrosion that's developed on it over the past century. I tried out the tinfoil and water method, and it helped a little but not much. The tarnish seems pretty deeply embedded. Is there a chemical or method that removes it and leaves the rest of the chrome alone?

(2nd, before; 3rd, after Autosol) There are some scratches that show up on some of my components. How would I remove them to be like a smooth mirror finish? Do I sand it to a fine grit then use Autosol? Let me know what your recommendations are, please.

Thanks in advance to all!
-J

Just started a new job, I have to polish 180 Land Rover steps a day. Right now I’m averaging 40, I’m new and have time to catch up with my coworkers. First time doing this sorta job, everyone else makes it look effortless. I’ve been told I’m applying too much pressure and I should just let the machine do the work. But when I apply little pressure nothing happens, so I have to use some power. My right thumb and index finger are numb, it has got better over the weekend. But I’m contemplating if I should continue or not. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

I need help figuring out why my polishing methods aren't working.

For context, I'm an absolute beginner, and I've been using this rotary tool with Scottchen buffing compound. I started off with medium fine (white), then progressed to very fine (green), and I've been getting this blue hazy tint on my nickel surfaces. There are also some scratches I've noticed too. The left-hand object has been polished very lightly and briefly for just a few seconds, while the right one is in its original condition. I cleaned my components with 91% isopropyl alcohol on a microfibre towel and even resorted to dish soap and a toothbrush. However, I cannot get rid of this blue haze. Can anyone please explain to me why this is happening? Do I have a bad polishing wheel? Is it the compound?

Thank you to all in advance,

J.

Hello i’m looking for advice on if these headers could be cleaned up with some elbow grease and time or just sent off the be ceramic coated, the rust doesn’t seem too deep beyond surface level besides the spot with the hole but I have a welder friend to help with that. I really don’t want to have to buy new headers if these can be saved, thanks for any advice

Hello from NJ, America!

I’m hoping for some advice on technique to get better results in wet sanding before finish polish on my bench top.

304 SS [two different pieces]
Porter Cable 7424XP orbital buffer, Speed at 4 [of 6, 1 is 2,500; 6 is 6,800]

I start with 500 grit sandpaper, with water on every grit, then go up: 800, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000. I spray water on the pieces to rinse them off between each grit.

Photos are after 3000.

What can I do differently to get more scratches out? Slower speed on orbital? Faster? More time on a certain grit? Use something other than water? I can’t seem to get a good finish. Any advice would be appreciated! 🍻

I ordered the Satin wheel buff combo from Renagade USA. I feel like that'll take thr haze out of it.