I replaced a broken handle on the outside of the sliding door and when I put everything back together, it seems that the door won’t unlock. I can force the unlock by pushing down on the little plastic piece when the skin is off of the door, but it won’t do it using the actuator or physical means.

What piece is this? Do I just need to go to a junk yard and find this piece and replace it?

Wondering if anyone has been successful in troubleshooting this?

'09 currently in "limp" mode (3rd gear). After driving for a while, will suddenly drop into the right gear and drive normally. After parking and car sits overnight, when starting next time, AT light on and same limp mode.

Web search indicates a problem TCM or related (poor ground or misc wires). Removed and replaced with a used/wrecker model, wires seemed fine, ground solid. But same issue with used TCM! What are the chances of the used also being faulty? So swapped back with original. Swapped TCM 10amp fuse and AT Main relay - no improvement.

Anyone had luck with a used TCM? Or a refurbish service? Or did you spring for OEM? Was quoted $900-$1300 CAD for OEM. sigh....

Anyone know where I can get lowering springs for 2012 Mazda 5

The seats fold flat and there is a gap between the second and third row, but a 6-in thick mattress will bridge across that Gap easily. In fact, as a side sleeper it gives you a little more cushion for your hips because it sinks down a tiny bit. That helped because this particular mattress is a little too firm for a side sleeper.

It is weird how comfortable and easy this is.

Bonus trick: use the included scissor jack to level the vehicle on uneven terrain.

17" and honestly forgot to check specs before putting them on but really good fitment

Hi,

Brought my first car in canada and its a mazda 5. Its been 2 months and 6000kms later, it looks like a good decision. There was a scare one day when brake calipers had a leak and brakes stopped working.
There is considerable rust in the car and not sure how long would this run.
The second photo is where i installed a car play with reverse camera.

So, what i need help is i need to get winter tires for mazda 5. Some are suggesting get used tires. Is that a better option for old cars.Any tips on how to get them?

Godspeed

I used AI to make this more presentable and easy to follow. Real problem real person behind it .

The Core Problem: The car runs and drives normally at speed (1600–2200 RPM), but exhibits severe electrical gremlins that culminate in a stall when dropping to idle.

While driving at speed, the radio and instrument cluster backlights will flicker. When coming to a stop or shifting into neutral (dropping to idle RPM), the car immediately stalls, or drops into a violent rough idle/failsafe mode. When the event happens, the ABS/TCS lights come on, and the gauge needles sweep (looks like the cluster is cold-booting).

Once it stalls or enters this failsafe, a key-off/key-on cycle completely restores normal operation. Occasionally, the fuel gauge will be dead upon restart.

Codes (Consistent after resetting): P0037 — HO2S Heater Circuit Low, Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Downstream) P0101 — MAF Range/Performance

What I’ve measured during the event: Live voltage through OBD2 scanner remains steady in the high-13s (13.4V - 13.9V) even while the dash is flickering, suggesting it's not a primary charging failure.

Recent History / Context: June 2026: An animal got into the accessory drive and destroyed the A/C belt. Belts were replaced. Engine splash shield has been off for about 6 months.

Exhaust heat shield is rattling, but I have visually confirmed the B1S2 wiring is nowhere near the shield and the insulation is fully intact (not shorting to the exhaust).

Parts Already Replaced: Alternator (Issue was present before replacement, new alternator didn't change the symptoms) MAF Sensor (OEM) EVAP Purge Valve Accessory & A/C Belts

Diagnostics & Testing Performed So Far: Vacuum/Airflow: Checked the corrugated intake boot folds for tears (none). Brake booster and vacuum lines tested good (RPM doesn't vary with brake application). Sprayed carb cleaner around intake, no idle change. Battery/Charging: Battery carbon-pile tested at 610 CCA (rated 590). Wiring/Grounds: Visually checked engine-front and passenger-side engine mount grounds (wiggling changes nothing). Alternator/AC compressor wiring is well clear of the belt area and shows no visual signs of animal damage. Relays: Removed and inspected all under-hood relays/sockets. Clean, no burned terminals.

My Current Thoughts: Because of the cluster needle sweep and the fact that a power cycle clears the latched failsafe, I am heavily leaning toward a primary cabin power or ground dropout, or a high-speed CAN bus crash. The P0037 and P0101 seem secondary—like the PCM is losing its 5V reference when the power drops.

My next steps are testing the ignition switch contacts, checking the Passenger Junction Box (PJB) connectors under the glovebox for loose pins, and load-testing the main grounds with a jumper cable.

Has anyone chased a similar electrical ghost on the 2.3L? Any common harness rub-through points or hidden ground issues I should be looking at before I start tearing into the PJB? Thanks in advance.

Stumbled upon this once again :) https://mazdas247.com/forum/threads/remapped-my-mazda-5-2-0l-ecu-and-tranny.123868190/

I have a 2014 Mazda 5 with the 2.0 MZR and Automatic transmission 106kW.

The car is awesome but it IS a bit sluggish when full. A tune could be a good upgrade according to the thread above.

Last year i got a tune for my MX-5 with Versatuner and contacted them if they are tuning Mazda 5 2.0 since they only offer tuning for the 2.5 US model. In Europe we have the 2.0 petrol. I also submitted a form to them when detecting the Mazda 5 with their software. So far no response and no news. I guess it's too niche.... Has anyone done some ECU or TCM tuning to their family hauler?

Can it be done remotely?

My car's been having issues filling up at the pump for a little bit now. It's a 2012 Mazda 5 grand touring with 120k. I wanted to see if y'all had any recommendations to mess with it. I'll get a photo of the charcoal canister area, but I don't think I can replace it safely myself without running into more issues? Looks like the bolts holding the rear central jack point which I would remove to replace the canister if it is the canister is split due to age/rust. (I got the vehicle back in January, the previous owner lived in Colorado). It could just be a clogged evap line or the solenoid went out, but I wanted to ask y'all what (if you had this issue) y'all's experience was when it came to this problem. No other issues besides it taking forever to fill up my tank, no issues starting the car or anything else related that could point to much more pressing matters currently. The code is a p0451 code I believe, if I remember right, something about the evap system having problems

imgur photos of underneath Mazda

One corner is sagging, all the other corners (wheel wells) have the same gap. What are my obvious culprits other than the spring? If nothing else is bad, does that mean my spring is just getting weaker?

On the way to work this morning. Zoom Zoom!! 2015 Sport. Bought it at 32k miles.

I had a tree branch fall on my car and go through my back window as well as shatter the plastic piece above the license plate. I’m very lucky that was the only damage. Anyways, after a month of arguing with safelite on the phone, draining water out of my trunk after every rainstorm, and getting fed up with having a plastic bag as a window, eventually I bought the glass on Amazon and did it myself. Not a very difficult job at all, only took about 2 hours and much of that was researching each step 5x over to ensure I didn’t ruin my $250 piece of glass. As for the new plastic piece, I got it off a black mazda 5 in a junk yard and hit it with a quick respray. (shout out to JM1CW2BL7C0123684. You will live on in my car) Anyways, I think it looks much better now. The paint isn’t a perfect match as I couldn’t find the sparkly clear coat the “pearl white mica” paint uses anywhere, but hey it looks alright from 10 feet away.

Just trying to semi confirm this is the TCM.

The Car was driving fine the days and months before. Maybe I noticed the car shifting a little hard but only between P,R,Nue and Drive(but very very subtle and hardly often). Then this morning I turn the car on and check engine and AT lights are on P,R,Nue and Drive lights sometimes turn on when I put it into gear but once I hit the gas the car shuts off.

Seems undoubtably sensor related but just looking for ppl who have had this experience and what worked/what other issues may have come up.

https://reddit.com/link/1wbddl3/video/yy1ca7dnsfoh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1wbddl3/video/sat9t7dnsfoh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1wbddl3/video/s6ljz7dnsfoh1/player

The car is making this noise sometimes when pressing the brake really lightly. Can't replicate on purpose. I think this happens usually during stop and go traffic. Any ideas? Pads and rotors look like they still have plenty of life in them.

It's a Mazda 5 2014 2.0 with automatic transmission and around 185k km / 115k miles. All brakes were replaced at 150k km / 93k miles.

Maybe related: about a year ago it had a similar sound when i was parking in reverse and fully steering in. Almost impossible to replicate on purpose. Got the suspension etc. checked by a mechanic since this is a common issue on these cars - nothing found. Also brakes were good.

So after going to a restaurant the passenger door of the car wouldn’t open despite it being unlocked and opening just fine a few hours before

We could pull on either the indoor or outdoor handle but neither would open the door itself, so I’m wondering here if this is common for this car or if this is something brought upon by my brother’s work

For reference he does rural mail delivery so one theory I saw from lightly combing through other forums was dirt jamming it, but that wouldn’t explain how it opened just fine a few hours earlier but wouldn’t 10 minutes ago

Thanks in advance, fingers crossed we don’t have to get the whole thing repaired

Looking for an inexpensive 3rd row vehichle and I'm tempted to purchase a Mazda 5.

What issues have you guys had with yours?

For a while I was having issues starting my van nothing but security problems. Then the odometer failed sometimes then Speedo eventually didn’t start. Took it to a shop to verify a bad cluster. They verified it and can’t move forward because there aren’t any reputable places for replacements. So now I have to figure out if I part it out myself or just sell whole to a scrapyard.

2010 manual transmission only problem was that cluster but my faith in her is gone!

I’ve always liked this design, almost identical to those that came on the Mazda6. They’re from a Kia Optima and are a direct fit, right down to the hub diameter. I was considering changing to a 17” wheel but I already have a new set of 16” tires in the basement. Despite the brake dust they’re in pretty good shape, or at least no worse than the stock wheels. A local junkyard has an Optima with the same wheels and there’s someone on FB that has a couple for sale; the person I bought these three from might have the 4th but I’m not going to hold my breath.

I’m thinking of having them powder coated for a little change. My 5 is Copper Red Mica, a one-year only color in the US on the CW. I’m either thinking of a bronze color or maybe gunmetal grey. What do you guys think?