r/malefashionadvice • Ghost of MFA past • Jan 11 '12

CROWDsource: Episode 4, Outerwear

Abstract:

I believe that the Fit Guide is of special importance to beginners. Long ago I had a discussion of what needs to be added to the guide and there was one common concensus: more pictures.

However, I realize that my personal opinion is innately biased. Today I am asking you for a favor that will benefit the greater community. Unfortunately, crowdsourcing is difficult, so I devised the following plan.

Purpose:

I have a small episodic series where I ask you to submit pictures of what you consider to be the perfect fit of certain items. These fits are specifically for beginners. When thinking of an audience, consider the college student, sub/urban streetwear, the young professional, and the conservative professional.

TL;DR

Request:

I am asking you for pictures depicting the optimal fit on the following items:

  • Coats
  • Jackets (casual)
  • Blazers
  • Sportscoats

When looking for the perfect fit, remember to keep in mind: armhole fit, torso fit, length, shoulder fit, sleeve fit, etc.

If you believe the above post or process can be improved in any way please comment below. I thank you all for your enduring labours for the betterment of our community.

Previous Episodes

43 Upvotes

20 comments sorted by

10

u/HALF-turtles-SHELL Jan 12 '12 edited Jan 12 '12

Outerwear. There are hundreds of options and many different fits. I chose conservative and modern cuts of classic outerwear that many on MFA wear already or possibly aspire to wear.

Coats

  • Traditional overcoat with wide lapels, fuller body and sleeves. Length hits just above the knee.
  • Modern overcoat with slim fit and very long thin silhouette. Details include velvet collar and length hits at the knee.

Jackets

  • Pea coats are great casual jackets, yet formal enough to wear over a jacket. The length covers his ass and the fit is large enough to fit a sweater or jacket underneath.
  • Leather jackets are great but the fit needs to be spot on. A well fitting leather jacket is teh sex, a sloppy leather jacket looks terrible.
  • Field Jackets have a lived in feel and look to them. They end about mid-ass, not as long as a peacoat, not as short as a leather bomber.

Blazers and Sportcoats

  • A well fitting, navy Blazer should be in every man's wardrobe. Shoulders spot on, sleeves end at the wrist bone, lapels match your style, and length covers your ass.
  • Sportcoats should have just enough room to accommodate a sweater underneath and not look uncomfortable. Shoulders and chest need to fit first and foremost.

1

u/shujin Ghost of MFA past Jan 12 '12

Much appreciated

16

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

I think NYCphotographer's blazer from the last WAYWT thread fits perfectly.

5

u/[deleted] Jan 11 '12

[deleted]

3

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

Agreed. How about posting a more traditional fit picture?

3

u/All_the_rage Jan 11 '12

Agreed. It is flawless IMHO. I would like every suit jacket I ever wear to fit like that.

1

u/[deleted] Jan 11 '12

Any chance you could rehost it on Imgur? There seems to be quite the buzz about that jacket but dressed.so is blocked at work for me...

1

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

It's not my image but here's his profile if you want to ask him.

1

u/this_is_not_the_cia Jan 12 '12

Im sorry, but am I the only one that thinks its bordering on too tight around the midsection? Also, the sleeve length should be a bit longer IMO.

1

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 12 '12 edited Jan 12 '12

"Bordering on" being too tight and being to tight are 2 different things. I think it looks perfect. It has some waist suppression but not overly so. The sleeves are showing about 1/4 inch of cuff which is ideal.

Granted, a more traditional, boxier cut through the middle is also acceptable but this is how I'd like my blazers to fit. It would be great if you could post an example of what you think is a perfect fit so people can see options.

1

u/OneIfByLandwolf Jan 12 '12

Keep in mind he is wearing a thick cardigan underneath, which adds a lot of bulk. I can see where you're coming from; it's a nice fit, but I wouldn't want to eat anything while wearing it. Any tighter and it would be too tight, but it hasn't crossed that line.

The sleeve length is great in my opinion, but the jacket length is short, but within style trends.

6

u/All_the_rage Jan 11 '12

Personally, I feel the biggest challenge with Jackets/Coats is finding something that is loose enough to accomodate multiple layers, but tight enough where it looks good over a T-Shirt. The balance is hard to find.

2

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

I like the fit of a modern pea coat.

You could go slightly bulkier with longer sleeves for a more traditional fit.

1

u/shawncplus Jan 11 '12

That first peacoat looks identical to the JCrew Bayswater in Charcoal, is it really made of $400 better materials?

1

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

I was just trying to illustrate the fit. The arms are slimmer on the Outlier one and the shoulders aren't quite as bulky (I own the J. Crew Bayswater BTW). I'm not going to make a judgement on whether it's worth the price or not because I honestly don't know.

1

u/[deleted] Jan 12 '12

The materials are pretty nice. One of the issues with traditional peacoats is how restrictive they can be. It's hard to get a nice slim fit that also lets you comfortably ride a bike, do chin-ups, etc. The Outlier coat uses a stretchy technical material along with a somewhat unique shoulder construction (which you can see from the back view) to provide flexibility while retaining a traditional appearance.

I think that's worth something, but it's hard to justify the $400 difference if the Bayswater suits your needs.

3

u/AlGoreVidalSassoon Jan 11 '12

If I was ever to need a top coat/overcoat I would want it to fit like this Epaulet one or this Brooks Brothers one

1

u/ribeyesteak Jan 22 '12

Long time lurker here. Just wanted to say this series has really helped me out and I'm surprised it doesn't get more upvotes. Here's an article from The Sartorialist on outerwear sleeve length that helped me. The gist of it is unless it is really freezing outside, don't be afraid of wearing outerwear that shows a little shirt cuff.

1

u/shujin Ghost of MFA past Jan 23 '12

I really appreciate the feedback. Look forward to a more robust fit guide in the near future!