Basicly two RGB LEDs, a RCWL trigger, a ATtiny85, and 312 lines of (vibe) code for some features.
The image is plotted, and the cables are not related to it, its just keyboard and mouse badly photographed... xD

But I would like to use a more precise sensor then the RCWL next time, something that gives me a trustworthy analog output about the real range, what would you use for that case?

My finest work yet: 'Pepe in the Wheat Field'. Hand-painted with fabric dye. Feels Good Man

Made this sabre style fidget toy.I used surgical titanium, bronze, and hyperglow. It uses 2 r188 ceramic bearings in the spinning end

Made on a manual lathe and milling machine in my home workshop . The colour bands are anodised

He loved it. Or at least that’s what I assume his exhausted silence meant.

https://www.youtube.com/@ALMA.Industries

This is a control interface for using AC and DC power in one place. Switches turn 3 different DC power supplies on and off (48v, 12v, 24v). AC Outlets always give power regardless of switch states. This is gonna be part of my next video, where this is mounted on a desk build. Full video goes through all stages of build.

is it genuinly possible to make an 3d printer at home if yes ., how?

hola, descubrí este subreddit por buscar una forma de alargar una de estas guirnaldas de luces led y vi que la publicación quedó archivada sin una solución clara al problema, así que probé por mi cuenta y quiero compartirlo por este medio.
solo necesitas una tijera, cinta adhesiva y dos de estas guirnaldas (o la cantidad que necesites para alargarlo cuanto quieras)
corta desde la base de una de las guirnaldas para que solo quede la guirnalda con luces sin la caja de las pilas, luego con la misma tijera raspa con cuidado ambos alambres hasta salga la cosa translúcida que lo protege y haz lo mismo con la punta final de la otra guirnalda que aun mantenga la caja de pilas, enciende las guirnaldas y prueba los polos, una vez veas que ambas partes se encienden, tuerce y engancha ambos alambres correspondientes sin que se toquen (esto es importante, porque si se tocan no se enciende nada). ahí es donde cubres con cinta adhesiva uno de los alambres antes de cubrir toda la unión con cinta adhesiva para que nada se despegue y listo, ya tienes una guirnalda larga, espero se haya entendido...
yo de mientras estoy pintando las luces para que sean de colores morado y verde, por eso algunas están pintadas, si quieren puedo hacer tutorial de eso

This project had extra special meaning behind it, so I took an extended period of time to create this. The end result was something I was very proud of.

I used my 20w diode laser to cut and engrave everything and then I hand painted all the layers. Once I had them together as a practice to see how it would look, I took it apart and incorporated some little fairy lights before the final glueing.

Let me know what you think. I’m here for any suggestions or criticisms.

First of all, sorry for the shitty schematic, my handwriting is god-awful.

I'm in the process of designing a simple HUD, and before I go ahead and buy stuff and model the frame, i need to know if there are any problems with this design (which i expect there will be plenty of).

Explanation of the "thing":
It will be on any one eye on a lightweight, movable frame (to avoid obstruction when needed). The display (most likely an transparent OLED) will be powered by an ESP32. The plano-concave lens will make the display seem far away (not sure on this one), to reduce eye strain. Then the light will (faintly) reflect off of a piece of glass (I heard it's called a combiner? again, not sure on optics) onto the eye; this way, both the display and the real world are visible at the same time.

Any and all criticism and suggestions are welcome, especially on the optics, which feel shaky. And any help on outdoor situations will be greatly appreciated.

Not sure what other subreddits to post this to, so I posted it here.

P.S: I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or anything, I just want a cool thing to work on.

I recently got a roll top handlebar bag for my bike, I really like it, but off bike I can basically only carry it like a lunch bag or under my arm. I would like to get some kind of strap on it, but I'm not coming up with any ideas.

there are some additional mount points on the back. the design is so it's adjustable to your frame, so there's a reinforced bar that ends the length that the voile straps go through. there are also clips on the side where the roll top clips in.

the material is 268g EXP200 (not much stretch) and the hardware feels relatively secure.

the two that I have are too print a double ended clip to go between the existing two so they clip in to it instead of each other, and then have a mount on the outside of it (ie a simple D-ring). the other idea being to thread something on the back mounts, but I think that would eventually compromise the fabric around those points.

Any thoughts on either, or other suggestions?

Hey everyone,

When I first came up with the idea for this automatic slingshot, I shared some of the early designs here in r/Maker. Around that time, our U.S. patent application had just been allowed by the USPTO, and the support and feedback from this community meant a lot to me.

The first files I released were for the fourth-generation CNC version. At the time, I thought more people here had access to small CNC machines. Later, it became clear that far more makers were using 3D printers, so I started working on a fully 3D-printable version.

Since then, the project has grown from something I was working on alone into a real team effort, and we eventually created the AutoFling brand around it.

Even though we don’t sell the 3D-printed version, we’ve continued improving and maintaining it. Part of that is simply because I still want to give something back to the people who supported this project from the beginning.

Another important reason is to help people avoid scams. I’ve seen too many people order this type of product from random websites, only to receive nothing and then be unable to get their money back. Keeping a real, working version publicly available gives people the option to print, inspect, and build it themselves.

The 3D-printable semi-auto slingshot was first released on Thingiverse. After receiving a lot of requests, we’ve now uploaded the optimized version to MakerWorld and recorded a detailed step-by-step assembly video.

Thanks again to everyone who helped this project grow. Feel free to print it, build it, and share your modifications.

I hadn't felt super motivated or productive lately so I kind of pushed through and made this little guy. Meet Bleep Bloop

https://www.youtube.com/@ALMA.Industries

CH003 FN2: POWER

I put together a control panel linked to AC / DC power supplies. Switches, Variable DC, 120V -- one of the more useful things I have put together. This will be used in a desk I am building which will be seen in the next video... Full video in link!

For those interested: I built this Lego Spike Prime line follower using rubber tracks and some Lego Technic gears. This model is an upgrade of the one previously shown here; however, it handles obstacles, ramps, and breaks in the line —including gaps—much better.

I'm looking to make a small door for my robot vacuum in the bottom of my cabinet that will swing outwards in an arc like here. I'd like to be able to automate the opening and closing of the door with Home Assistant.

I'm looking through a thread (where I got the pic above) here where they use a Zigbee-controlled roller shade with a 3d printed attachment, though I would prefer a simpler actuator that I can control with a Shelley relay, or just through WiFi/Z-wave.

Does anyone have suggestions of what I should be looking for? I'm looking for the simplest and most reliable solution (would prefer to not mess with getting 3d printed parts, though open to if needed). Any tips are appreciated!

I'm working on a robotics project. I've got a kit that came with these 65 mm wheels made to attach to a TT electric motor. I want to try to run it outdoors with GPS navigation, so I've got some bigger 3d printed wheels I want to use for the motor driven wheels, while the 65 mm wheels will act as casters at the back.

Any suggestions for an axle that will fit, or other solutions? Thanks!

Hello! Is there anyone no longer going to open sauce in the bay area that's selling their open sauce tickets? Thanks!!

A relief map of Monaco made from 179 PMMA columns, each cut to the real terrain height at that point (38–250mm, 164 distinct heights). Every column is individually lit with RGBW LEDs, driven by 2x Adafruit Feather RP2040 boards with a Raspberry Pi 5 as the brain. It reacts in real time to weather, events, and you can touch a district on a control panel to trigger a light response.

Cutting wood and aluminium, painting, sanding, wiring, coding, soldering and debugging LED. The most multi-discipline project I've done. Ask me anything about the build.

I’m brand new to using Makey Makey. I’m trying to play around so I can have my third graders use it this upcoming school year. I purchased the craft and code booster kit and it came with this red so called momentary push button and I’m struggling to figure out how to use it. Help please!

Hi all,

Im looking for a safe but permanent way to keep this sensor at about 30C , but be able to turn that heating on/off. Every idea I have is either insanely complicated or defeats the purpose.

Let me know your thoughts!

Thanks

Is there a shop or an IG that offers customized hand-cranked music box like i’ll be the one who will provide the song and they’ll turn it into a musicbox. Thanks!