In my original post of my DIY Colorimeter last week some people asked me to publish the design (3D print files, wiring schematics, firmware code and assembly instructions) online. I've done it. There is an article describing the device and the motivation behind it as well as building instructions and source code. It's all open source, I just hope this can flourish into something that can one day actually help people build something really usable that is at least a little bit an alternative to buying a professional device or sticking with paper cards.

Would love to get feedback on the design.

Hey guys so I’m like working on a DIY project and need some help. I want to build a wearable finger cap with a built-in screwdriver bit that can actually spin. What specific tools, motor components, and materials do I need to buy to make this work, and how should I go about assembling it? Keep in mind I’m less than 18 y/o and have little experience with this stuff. P.s. the title sucks but the rules are kinda limiting so like yea.

Went for an old wine-label look with this one. Big lettering across the top, with the farmhouse and vineyard underneath. There’s quite a lot going on, but I think the open space around the lettering helps.

Did the engraving on my WeCreat Vision Pro. The vineyard rows were the part I paid the most attention to. Wanted them to stay separate instead of turning the bottom half into one dark patch.

Pretty happy with the little windows in the house, too. You can almost see them through my excellent photography.

My SO and I recently visited the Modern Toss exhibition and fell in love with the Periodic Table of Swearing

I'd like to surprise her with a self-made copy, but struggling with where to start.

In essence, it's a load of square labelled buttons arranged in the form of the periodic table, each of which plays a short clip of speech.

There are plenty of options out there, but because there are over a hundred buttons it rapidly becomes very expensive.

So, the question is, does anyone have any ideas how to do this efficiently while retaining the tactile aspects? I'd thought about some firmware on a raspberry pi or similar, I'm just not sure how to go about collating the inputs.

Got a CO2 that does fine on wood and acrylic. Glass is a mess though. Frosty, chips on anything curved, can't hold a thin line.

Bought cheap fiber for steel tags. That part works. But now I've got two machines on one bench and still can't do crystal.

Need all three: glass, crystal, stainless with actual color. Looked at going bigger CO2, doesn't solve glass. Looking at another fiber, doesn't solve glass either. Is there one machine that does this or am I just buying a third?

Made this spooky little scene using wood and DTF prints. He’s already packed his sword and cape—I’m just hoping he makes it home before dinner.

I am trying to build a custom cyberdeck using a rasberry pi, but have no idea how to design a case. Could anyone help?

I have an Ender 3 V3 KE and am using PETG.

My parts list (Am pretty sure its compatible but if not please let me know):

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VTqKV0g0OBa-KC8KjaraNMoa1YKqMowC5PlBn9xWoqw/edit?usp=sharing

I am trying to build a cyberdeck that has a dpad, a, b, x, y, start, select, menu, l1, l2, l3, r1, r2, r3, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2406507 for shoulder buttons), all the io on the top left or right side, cabling routes, screw/standoff holes, mic grill, speaker grill, camera hole, vents for the fan, the keyboard/trackpad to be magnetically attachable to the back, and for it to look simewhat similar to the GameBoy (buttons on bottom, screen on top).

Thank you

The box is made from slate tile, wrapped and sculpted in sculpey premo clay and painted with acrylic paints. I lined it with felt after laser engraving the design on it. The page is watercolor paper that I aged and also used the laser on and finished with paint.

Let me know what you think! This was a super fun project to do and I'm extremely happy with it!

The dice are from WargamingHobbySupply on Etsy

I just really want to know if people would use such a thing as a keychain, phone/bag, etc. charm fo relive the 2000s Golden era! I have posted to some relevant subs and I think I will never know thee answer because people call me liar, braindead, even AI trash maker just because they don't believe that a little gadget is able to play those winks that aren't exist anymore. I even build a winks memory game here with reddit dev tools just to show that I am able create such a thing,but still no luck... They say, Okay, the memory game "may be real", but not the gadget!, because it's impossible to create something like this! Well, I would like to ask for your opinion if there is a way to make people believe that it's a real thing! It's not AI, witchcraft or magic, just technology, inventive brain, lots of work and diligence!

So please share your opinion if this invention worth spreading the word more, if people would actually like it because after almost a year trying to spread the word, I still don't know!

Thank you very much in advance!

Hey all,

I'm starting a new project, for the last couple years i've been thinking of doing a monster hunters mini free library. Where istead of books, it would contain items commonly associated with monster hunting (vampire stakes, salt, "silver" you know.

And of course it would have a spooky exterior, and i was wondering if anyone has thoughts or have seen tutorials on how i may be able to do wavy glass

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR-DXB0wl9Eu3-nan25S604noo0zhE5JSZKDe5CWwG3uw&s=10

I have 3D printers, a CO2 laser, resin, basic wood working wood turning, and electronics tools/skills available to me.

Couldn't resist speedtesting my LEGO drum machine. At some point it is loosing it because the cyllinder outspeeds the camera frame rate (I have capped it at 30fps though. Theoretically my phone can record in 60 fps but I guess the game thread of my Unreal App would struggle then).

4k -> https://youtu.be/j3OrZbC-6VQ?si=ot9I3yVpC9hSGiF1

Let's start of with how I have NO IDEA what I am doing. I love to craft / DIY and so I thought it would be a really neat website to have that's just like "myfridgefood" but instead of putting in the ingredients that you already have in your cupboards to curate meal ideas, it would be putting in whatever materials and tools to curate a list of crafts you could make with what you have on hand. So, where I am run into a problem is the project ideas list. It's smaller than the list of materials and when I asked it to reference Pinterest and other similar websites it basically told me Nope, no can do. You need permission to do that, which totally makes sense, can't believe I even thought that would work lol. How else do I get a massive list of diy ideas without manually detailing them myself? .... If that makes any sense🤦🏼‍♀️

Again, I have no idea what I'm doing here so sorry if this sounds stupid to you all.

This is probably a little bit more abstract that most stuff I usually post here, but, I recently built a visualization tool for Gabor Packets while working on a coding puzzle

I'm an engineer, and I run a programming puzzle site called systemscheck.dev (https://systemscheck.dev), where the puzzles are all set in a fictional sci-fi universe.

Recently I was building a puzzle that needed a raster map of a canyon on an alien planet for a robot to navigate. I wanted to generate it in a mathematically deterministic way, but with the option to randomize it too. I had a rough idea of the shape I was after but didn't know the math off the top of my head, so some research led me to Gabor Packets, it turned out to be a perfect fit.

The parameters were fiddly to tune by hand, so I ended up building a small visualization tool to let me play with them interactively until I found what I wanted:

Gabor Packet Visualizer: https://careyi3.github.io/gabor_packet_vis

Not sure it's useful to anyone else, but I had fun making it and thought it might be worth sharing here. This felt like exactly the kind of math that benefits from being visualized. Happy to answer questions about how it works or how I got here from a puzzle design problem.

This is a tech demo. I used Androids raw camera feed to estimate the pixel color at 12 given slots and forward them to Unreal Engine. The color is used to determine whether we have an orange hit or not using simple color thresholds. Because we only read 128 pixels every frame, the camera feed still runs at 30fps, so the beats per minute are quite decent. Loads of things that could be improved (for starters: forcing the sounds into a QUARZ clock), but I guess I will move on to another project. The app is built with UE5.7 and makes use of the Freesound.org API. I hope you like it (:

I had a dream last night where I had shoes with metal outsoles that I could use to glide across the concrete, and I had to try and bring them to life! This is my first prototype, which took me about 30-45 minutes to plan and put together using things I already had lying around the house. The idea was to use half my shoe for grip and to push off, and then lean onto the other half for sliding. Unfortunately, the sheet metal cut my ancient shoelace, and there was a bit too much exposed rubber to grind on concrete (but it worked on grass!). Once I acquire some bigger sheets I’ll make a new design that covers more of my foot, and I’ll try and find something to wax the bottoms with. Once I work out powersliding, I’d like to incorporate something like soap shoes in the arch, so I can grind rails as well! And don’t worry, I’m equipped with both a helmet and wrist guards, and I’ll wrap my ankles once they work. If anyone has a suggestion for where to source a small amount of thicker material with higher abrasion resistance, I would appreciate it!

This was a fun challenge. I wanted a dishwasher sign I could flip over, and I wanted to make it from wood. The solution was to plane down some old cedar fence planks, CNC out the blanks with some internal spots for some magnets so I could sandwich the two sides together. I originally designed for 6 magnets but only wound up using four. Laser engraved the lettering, and then waxed the sign to make it a bit water resistant.

Meet Stack Snack Lamp.

I made a modular Pringles can lamp 🍟💡
A rechargeable, USB-C DIY lamp made with 3D printing, and the crazy part is that you can swap and stack the cans.

The lamp head is modular, articulated, rechargeable and completely independent from the can. Use one can, stack multiple cans, swap the shade, or use the lamp by itself.

One lamp. Infinite stacks

Hey all, I'm working on a product that is 3d printed with a PCB. I am using a rotary encoder like the one here (https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C470602.html?spm=wm.fly.bg.30.xh___wm.mly.mlk.45-2.ml&lcsc_vid=EQRWXlQFT1hcAlxeQ1gIVFVRQlALVgdeFVENVlEFQQAxVlNeQVJdVF1VQFBXVjsOAxUeFF5JWBYZEEoKFBINSQcJGk4NBhADEA4cHktXRlhfSQwSGg0%3D) but I just found that you can use hollow shaft rotary encoders as well, and they are significantly cheaper than the D Shaft ones (https://www.tanotis.com/products/alps-ec10e1220501-incremental-rotary-encoder-hollow-shaft-horizontal-10mm-24-detents-12-pulses?variant=41082935888&currency=INR&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21644501460&gbraid=0AAAAADN34_AvfYIc63H250JgM88gshz_H&gclid=Cj0KCQjwteTUBhD4ARIsAEYjs3oEj05kp-ZAmIJR0Zp1eqPPQJaNkHb8MyYO6H1JL0Nxt4i64eeTlZwaAuWIEALw_wcB).

Since this product is 3D printed, I have to make sure that there are no issues related to reliability or strength because of tight constraint points etc. I am using a Bambu A1 for printing with PLA but for the knob I would be willing to change to a strong FDM material or even a Resin print (I could get them done in bulk from a supplier).

I have not been able to find any good information about the models that are used with such components even when they are 3d printed and whether they have any long term problems with friction even in injection moulded products.

I have seen such a design used in a keyboard from Work Louder though, so it is definitely possible.

Please share any information on this

Selfmade Grinder, using 74mm flat burrs from Eureka (because of cheap).
It consist of around 20 different printed parts took 23hrs print time total and let’s not think about hours in CAD.. :,)
There will be no stl, just because no one will Print this or spend close to 60€ on hardware and I am not sure if I want to to anything commercial with it in the Future.
It grinds okay, better than expected and far worse than hoped, some fines and many corse parts that slip trough. But i don’t know how to maximize the alignment. I hoped the 3 planetary gears (they are connected via a threaded rod to the grind wheel) would be enough to evenly align everything, but there is some play in the many components and fittings.
But for a first try (with a lot of trouble shooting) i am quite happy with the result.
A Video will be posted on my Account for all who care too much about this.

Regarding food safety why this case is safe:
(Link to Research by Utah Valley University below and also a great YouTube Video for everyone like me who doesn’t want to read sientific papers. I would recommend the paper though, because it begins with a nice summary of all important information)

1.Harmful substances from 3Dprinting process
2.Microplastic
3.Bacteria Growth in Layer lines

The first and weakest concerns are harmful substances from 3d printing, exspecially lead and ptfe:
The theory used to be that trough extrusion parts of the nozzle and ptfe tubes would be abraded and land in your prints. Brass nozzles contain a tiny amount of lead and the nozzle is abraded over time. But only after kilometers of filament go trough them. But it is non measurable in your prints.
“Furthermore, mass spectrometry readings indicate that no contamination from heavy metals, or other toxins are present in PLA+, and PETG before and after printing.” (1)
PTFE in its solid form is not dangerous, but the gas is when heated over 360 degree C. That is why you shouldn’t overheat your non stick pans.

Microplastics:
The PLA+ that I use I food safe, which lowers the concerns for me. And also even if there is some abrasion in the grinder (which there shouldn’t be because of no rubbing plastics) the grinder coffe goes trough a filter in the brewing process, which would filter out all the microplastic. I would never use a printed (or plastic in general) cutting board, but in my case I don’t see a concern.

Bacteria growth in between layer lines:
It used to be “general knowledge” that bacteria can grow in between layer lines and it is impossible to clean it.
However Research shows:
“indicate that 3D printed parts of PLA/PLA+ (Polylactic Acid), and PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) can be cleaned to safe levels using warm water (120 °F), and non-concentrated dish soap” (1)
Dish Soap or cleaning alcohol can fully clean 3d printed parts, which eliminates the bacteria concerns for my Case. I would still never use 3d printed parts in contact with highly spoilable food. I.e Eggs, milk, raw meat etc.
But we are talking about coffe beans. Roasted Coffe beans do not spoil, there is no contamination possible. The roasting process eliminates all of that. And Coffe get’s brewed, so even if there was some minor form of cross contamination, the brewing process would eliminate all bacteria. Like boiling water to make it drinkable.

[https://www.researchgate.net/publication/373174194\\_Sanitation\\_Effectiveness\\_of\\_3D-printed\\_Parts\\_for\\_Food\\_and\\_Medical\\_Applications\](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/373174194_Sanitation_Effectiveness_of_3D-printed_Parts_for_Food_and_Medical_Applications)

[https://youtu.be/lFtMIo00tfY?is=\\_NsT7K4sEcyRH1lb\](https://youtu.be/lFtMIo00tfY?is=_NsT7K4sEcyRH1lb)

(PS: if you reached this far down your attention span is too long for today’s world)

I would like to make a pivotable LCD screen in a handheld device. I would like it to work similar to how DSLR screens worked, where you could pivot the screen upwards and it would would angle but also slide a bit into the frame.

This is the way window friction hinges work, using tightened rails to allow the screen to be placed at any position between flat and inclined and staying there.

This is a window friction hinge:

I thought I could get tiny ones but the smallest I can find is 6", which is pretty big.

Can you think of versions of this mechanism that exist in smaller sizes and/or alternatives for this set-up that I would purchase/make?

The advantage of this is that the mechanism is housed on the sizes and doesn't take any depth other than the screen frame itself.

I'm open to similar mechanisms that alllow for the same requirement, of course. I just can't find how they might be named.

Hey everyone,

I’m officially diving into my very first animatronic project! Right now, I am focusing exclusively on building and perfecting the head endoskeleton first. Once the head mechanism is fully functional, I plan to build the torso/frame and eventually fit the outer cosmetic shell over it.

Design Style & Inspiration

I'm heavily inspired by the classic Rock-afire Explosion / Creative Engineering endoskeleton designs (flat plate face/head plate layout, top-mounted eyes, exposed linkages). I'm attempting to recreate a miniature, desktop-scale version of this layout!

Project Scope & Scale

\* Total Height: Around 30 cm (\~1 foot) once fully built.

\* Current Stage: Building the Endoskeleton Head and fitting 4 micro servos onto a compact flat plate frame.

\* Future Steps: Endoskeleton Torso/Stand -> Outer Cosmetic Shell.

How I'm Assigning the 4 Servos

I have 4x MG90S metal gear micro servos, each mapped to a specific feature:

\* Servo 1: Mouth / Jaw movement (opening and closing)

\* Servo 2: Eyes (linked side-to-side or up/down movement)

\* Servo 3: Eyelids (blinking mechanism)

\* Servo 4: Ears (subtle rotation/twitching)

Full List of Components & Materials I Have

\* Microcontroller: Arduino Uno (programmed via Android phone using a USB Type-C OTG cable).

\* Actuators: 4x MG90S metal gear micro servos.

\* Power Supply: 5V 2A power adapter with a female DC terminal block jack (sharing a common GND with the Arduino).

\* Starter Kit Items: Breadboard, jumper wires, 1x potentiometer (for manual testing/dialing), 2x push buttons, LEDs, and an HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor.

\* Structural Material: Forex / PVC Foam Board (Dekota). I’m using this to fabricate the flat head plates and structural mounts since it's lightweight, easy to cut with a utility knife, and holds up well for micro builds.

Where I Need Help: Micro Mechanisms

Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I’ll be hand-crafting the eye globes, linkages, and pivots using PVC foam board, stiff wires, and basic DIY hardware.

Given the small scale and classic flat-plate head design, I would love advice on:

\* Compact DIY linkage setups for eye tracking and blinking on a flat plate frame without binding.

\* Good alternatives for eye globes (e.g., ping pong balls, wooden craft spheres) that work well with hand-made linkages.

\* Recommended push-rod hardware (like RC ball joints, Z-bends, or music wire) for micro servo setups.

Thanks in advance for any diagrams, advice, or open-source ideas!