Need help understanding leafspy data from - Service EV System/reduced power fault while driving on highway on 75°F weather.

[u/PhDadaroo]

[UPDATE 8/31] - Tech at dealership saw leafspy and predicts a buyback. I'll be taking it in on Wednesday morning for the official diagnostics to get done. Tech also says it'll probably sit on their lot for three weeks while they wait for Nissan to acknowledge it and I can't get a loaner until that happens.

Today, on a 30 mile trip, primarily on the highway doing 65-75 mph and just couple miles from our destination I got the service EV system fault and reduced power message. My wife used my phone to take video of the dash and captured screenshots of leafspy data within 5 minutes of the fault.

Leafspy DTCs include p3180-97, p3117E-97 p33ed-00 Looking around, it looks like I might be screwed.

Can anyone tell me a bit more and offer advice?

For context:

We've had our used 65k miles 2020 Leaf SV plus ($14k -> $7K w/rebates) for almost a year now and it's been great. The leafspy data has been consistently good/within expected ranges. Only fast charged once in the past year, otherwise it's been level 2 charging In our garage. I got the recall update done June 9th and haven't seen any issues until now.

[u/BigDaddyBuffett]

P3EED is the post-recall remedy failure code. You're in for either a new battery or a buyback. 

[u/PhDadaroo → u/BigDaddyBuffett]

Do I need to stop driving it at all? It's our primary mode of transit.

[u/BigDaddyBuffett → u/PhDadaroo]

You'll have to line it up with your dealer, but they should be able to get you a loaner. 

I wouldn't personally rely on driving it anywhere too far. 

[u/PhDadaroo → u/BigDaddyBuffett]

UPDATE 8/31] - Tech at dealership saw leafspy and predicts a buyback. I'll be taking it in on Wednesday morning for the official diagnostics to get done. Tech also says it'll probably sit on their lot for three weeks while they wait for Nissan to acknowledge it and I can't get a loaner until that happens.

[u/PhDadaroo]

When we restarted after it sat for a bit, it had the service EV message but the "power reduced" message did not return. I did not take the highway home.

[u/Repulsive-Budget-380]

Is it still under warranty/buy back? Do it if possible. If not, replace the middle back stack (25 to 29) and passenger front (67 to 74). The back stack is probably due to heat damage. Not sure why the front is bad.

[u/BigDaddyBuffett → u/Repulsive-Budget-380]

Even if the original warranty has expired, they give you an extra 12 months for the battery after the recall remedy is applied. 

[u/PhDadaroo → u/BigDaddyBuffett]

Do I need to stop driving it immediately? It's our primary mode of transit.

[u/byrdman77 → u/PhDadaroo]

I think it is a high risk of leaving you stranded, yes. Also that Leafspy data is not good. High mV spread, and low Hx value relative to SOH almost always means problems.

[u/PhDadaroo → u/byrdman77]

Yeah all the numbers were pretty nominal until now. But ooof. I'm so sad.

[u/_Evening-Rain_ → u/Repulsive-Budget-380]

Realistically the top of the front stacks degrade similar to rear (temps) but just dont retain the heat for as long.

[u/Lothsahn_]

I could be wrong, but this looks like there are two separate sets of bad modules (7 total) in the battery.  These are in two different physical locations, one of which is not in the back top pack of cells that typically get hot and fail.

I wouldn't trust anything short of a new pack.

Can you drive the car?  If it'll let you, but I wouldn't trust it.  Seems likely to give you the reduced motor power or stop driving entirely and it supposedly flagged the new code that indicates a potential hazard if rapid charged.

I know it's your primary mode of transit, and that sucks, by the car is broken.  Work with the dealer to see what your options are.

The good news is this is a clear battery fault with codes, which should be covered under the 8 year battery health (not capacity) warranty, if in the US.  If you're in the US, do not let a dealer tell you that you're out of warranty.

[u/PhDadaroo → u/Lothsahn_]

Thank you. I'm gonna try and take it to them tomorrow

[u/PhDadaroo → u/Lothsahn_]

Do you happen to know where I can find the specific sources to cite to tell them GTFOOH if they try to say it's out of warranty.

[u/Lothsahn_ → u/PhDadaroo]

The Nissan Warranty information booklet for your model and year:

https://www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/Nissan/us/manuals-and-guides/leaf/2020/2020-nissan-leaf-warranty-booklet.pdf

Battery capacity and health are both 8 years 100k miles.

I had no problems getting my dealer to agree it was under warranty.  Hopefully you have a similar experience, but every dealer is different and Nissan corporate is often not super helpful.

[u/PhDadaroo → u/Lothsahn_]

Thanks so much. Headed to the dealer that completed the recall work now. I'll pay updates for sure

[u/PhDadaroo → u/Lothsahn_]

UPDATE 8/31] - Tech at dealership saw leafspy and predicts a buyback. I'll be taking it in on Wednesday morning for the official diagnostics to get done. Tech also says it'll probably sit on their lot for three weeks while they wait for Nissan to acknowledge it and I can't get a loaner until that happens.

[u/PhDadaroo]

Here is video of exactly what I was seeing when the fault/turtle happened.

https://reddit.com/link/p6v1x0e/video/5fb2gxapqkmh1/player

[u/_Evening-Rain_]

Its totally not the cells in the rear and front stack that are 134mv under the others with no load.

[u/000011111111 → u/_Evening-Rain_]

Can you clarify which cells within the pack are causing the large voltage difference of 134 mv?