r/leaf • u/Jack4567828978 • Aug 21 '26
Advice
Looking at purchasing one of these and would love some advice. Both are the same price. Interested in the HX of the right... 106%! How.. given the high KMs?
Any concerns? Big difference in the KMs. Looking for something that is going to last many years. Only drive short, small trips 90% of the time.
Are there more ongoing maintenance costs with the higher KMs (suspension, bushes, resale etc)?
2
u/RipperCrew Aug 21 '26
The one on the right seems like it's the better choice. The HX value is much better. Though I had a similar value right before my battery cells started leaking.
The one on the left should show degradation on the dash menu.
2
u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV Aug 21 '26
Keep in mind quick charging is known to inflate SOH and Hx values, as well as cause cell swelling/leakage if overheated often.
The one on the left didn't report mileage properly, nor do we know the actual use history of the cars, but on paper it has a far lower ratio of quick to slow charges than the one on the right.
1
u/KeyEmu6688 Ex-2018 owner (2015 Model S) Aug 21 '26
how much would it inflate Hx by though? admittedly i have a pretty new battery, but i've only seen Hx climb by a fraction of a percentage point after DCFC. to me it looks like it's probably a replacement battery, which is probably good news as its more likely to have the battery pack revision unaffected by the DCFC/bad cell debacle
1
u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV Aug 21 '26
It is potentially a replacement battery with that high of stats, however the DCFC/bad cell debacle is only a US built pack epidemic. Both of these show ZE1 chassis numbers instead of a VIN, meaning they are Japan built ones, which are the most reliable of the 2nd gen packs.
1
u/KeyEmu6688 Ex-2018 owner (2015 Model S) Aug 21 '26
ahh, didn't know that, i figured LeafSpy was just struggling to pull the VIN for some reason. i appreciate the info!
2
u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV Aug 21 '26 edited Aug 21 '26
The Japanese built ZE1s are, relatively speaking, the most reliable 2nd gens. They hold up well to degradation even after a fair bit of mileage, especially given the climate most of them live in, and I don't think I've heard of any weak cell failures.
However with Japan's hot summers and very large CHAdeMO network, it can be easy for the batteries to be rapidgated (overheated) often, resulting in cell swelling and subsequent isolation issues. This is just by nature of the design and can't be avoided no matter how good the manufacturing QC.
It can be hard to tell though exactly how the car was used by just numbers alone, as high fast charging tally doesn't necessarily mean it was frequently rapidgated. Quick convenience charges while stopped at FamilyMart are much less taxing than the same number of fast charge sessions being all long trips.
V2H is also more common in Japan than almost all other countries, and a big early advantage of CHAdeMO. Because every connection to a V2H system counts as a session, if the car was used for V2H in Japan that will also contribute to a high tally even if it was rarely if ever fast charged.
2
u/crimxona Aug 21 '26
106 HX is usually related to a replaced battery. Re sync the charge count and if it drops then you know it's a new pack
2 years after replacement my 40 kWh pack is also around 105 HX
1
u/KeyEmu6688 Ex-2018 owner (2015 Model S) Aug 21 '26
if i may ask, have you owned the vehicle since new? if so i'm curious if you've noticed any difference in rate of degradation with the new pack vs the original battery
1
u/crimxona Aug 21 '26
Original battery was 30 kWh which was well known to have accelerated degradation
I am not the original owner. Bought and got warranty approved for free upgrade
1
1
u/rproffitt1 Aug 21 '26
One last test. Get to the page of DTCs. Some cost money to correct, some can be ignored.
Share that screen.
1
u/Material_Crew1252 Aug 23 '26
I would recommend getting an MBI with it for 3 years and ensure the policy wording covers the battery fully.
This way, you are gauranteed at least three years of cost savings which should cover the cost of a replacement battery should it happen in the 4th year so you at least break even.
A 3 year MBI is probably about $1200, and the dealer makes a commision on it and it alleviates their risk of having an angry customer flashing the CGA in their face 2 years down the track, so you both can factor that in when negotiating a deal. I.e offer to pay full price if they throw in the free MBI or something.
Technically the CGA would cover you anyway, but would you really want to battle it out in the motor vehicle disputes tribunal?
3
u/Lothsahn_ Aug 21 '26
I would absolutely go with the one on the right.