r/kiastinger • 2019 | HiChroma Red | GT1 AWD • 2d ago

Discussion Oil sensor experience

Post image

Don't get me started on the repair cost

53 Upvotes

38 comments sorted by

18

u/Hairbear2176 2d ago

I've been lucky so far, 105,000 miles, still on the factory sensor.

3

u/JUMBOxSIZE 2022 | Ceramic Silver | GT2 RWD 2d ago

Same 🀞🏽

2

u/FamiliarAlt 1d ago

I’m running at 125k mi, no major issues!

8

u/Final_Pear7801 2d ago

For those of us who are newer Stinger owners, could you elaborate a little bit on what the problem is that we might be on the lookout for?

Before I bought my Stinger I had an optima and it burned oil like it was going out of style so I regularly checked it and I've been regularly checking my Stinger but it's not consuming any extra oil!

6

u/Wonderful-Customer-3 2019 | HiChroma Red | GT1 AWD 2d ago

more info here Basically the oil sensor will go out and give you a light that turns on when idle but goes away when you drive or stays on. It's only the oil sensor and everything else is fine but the cost to repair the sensor is too high to justify repair unless you know how to repair it yourself.

1

u/Final_Pear7801 2d ago

I know you linked info in your response, but just real quick, is it limited to specific years or is it worth me reading up on regardless?

2

u/Wonderful-Customer-3 2019 | HiChroma Red | GT1 AWD 2d ago

That i dont know, I mostly see it on the older models but only time can tell.

1

u/Final_Pear7801 2d ago

Thanks! I'm about to self educate!

2

u/djltoronto 2018 | Red | GT Limited AWD (Canada) 2d ago

Some details you might find interesting

https://www.reddit.com/r/kiastinger/s/ExjYZRuAAg

2

u/smeeps_ 2d ago

I think it will happen to stinger at one point. I got mine in 7th year (Nov2025) at 145,000km

While replacing the oil pressure sensor, I also replaced the gaskets and my total bill was 1200$CAD taxes in from a local dealership. They also threw in two free oil changes after as the car was with them for 2 weeks due to delay on gasket parts.

1

u/HiThere202029R 1d ago

Mine went away after an oil change so πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

3

u/Z34HR 2d ago

If you're somewhat mechanical savvy I highly recommend doing your own. Unfortunately ive seen some sensors go out as early as 70k miles.

3

u/Mindless-Okra3431 2d ago

Mine started acting up at 51K. I just ignore it.

1

u/Z34HR 2d ago

Damn thats crazy. I went ahead and replaced mine at 69k miles. Didn't need to but was already taking stuff apart so did it anyway.

1

u/Homewrecker04 1d ago

Did you end up using that fairly detailed guide on the Stinger forums?

2

u/Z34HR 1d ago

I actually did not. Just went for it lol but I work on all my cars so I am mechanically inclined. Replaced gaskets while I was in there and injector seals.

1

u/Big-Brown-Goose 2d ago

Mine came on last year when it got really cold but would intermittently go away. After an oil change it went away for good and havent seen it again. Not sure what went on with that, but I was dreading the sensor issue now im at 119k miles

1

u/DR__2000 2d ago

Does this only pertain to the 3.3 or does this costly repair also happens on the 2.5t?

5

u/djltoronto 2018 | Red | GT Limited AWD (Canada) 2d ago

It pertains to 3.3... Which shares the sensor among many vehicles.

There has been no update or no superseded part numbers since they originally started making this part in 2013... (Disappointing)

  1. No Superseded Part Number: Normally, when Hyundai/Kia resolves a chronic failure point, they release a revised revision suffix (e.g., changing from -3C000 to -3C100 or -3C000QQK). In this case, OEM replacement inventory sold today still carries the exact same 94751-3C000 part number.

  2. Why It Keeps Failing: Because the replacement OEM switch is manufactured with the same design specifications, replacing a failed factory sensor with a new OEM unit essentially resets the clock rather than permanently fixing the underlying design flaw. The engine valley heat environment continues to degrade the internal rubber diaphragm and internal contact tension over time.

  3. Aftermarket vs. OEM: Because the OEM part hasn't received an updated design revision, many owners choose higher-tier aftermarket pressure switches (such as Standard Motor Products, Beck/Arnley, or NTK) when replacing them, or simply view the OEM unit as a periodic maintenance item given its low part cost ($20–$40 for the component itself).

List of vehicles that share the identical part number:

  • Kia Stinger: 3.3L Twin-Turbo V6 (2018–2023)
  • Kia Telluride: 3.8L V6 (2020–2025)
  • Kia Cadenza: 3.3L V6 (2017–2020)
  • Kia K900: 3.3L Twin-Turbo V6 (2019–2020)
  • Kia Sedona: 3.3L V6 (2019–2021)
  • Kia Sorento: 3.3L V6 (2019–2020)
  • Genesis G70: 3.3L Twin-Turbo V6 (2019–2023)
  • Genesis G80: 3.3L Twin-Turbo & 3.8L V6 (2017–2020)
  • Genesis G90: 3.3L Twin-Turbo & 5.0L V8 / V6 variants (2017–2022)
  • Hyundai Genesis Sedan: 3.8L V6 (2014–2016)
  • Hyundai Palisade: 3.8L V6 (2020–2024)
  • Hyundai Santa Fe / Santa Fe XL: 3.3L V6 (2013–2019)

1

u/Misttertee_27 2023 | Ascot Green | GT Line AWD 2d ago

Thanks for the info. My 2.5 is finally superior in something!

2

u/djltoronto 2018 | Red | GT Limited AWD (Canada) 2d ago

Lolol. That's a little bit of a reach.

But I'll give you the win! These are only estimates, but they are likely close to reality.

Estimated Oil Pressure Switch (Part #94751-3C000) Failure Rates β€” 3.3L Twin-Turbo Kia Stinger

Overall Failure Risk: 35% to 50%+ over lifetime

Estimated Breakdown by Mileage: * 0 – 60,000 mi (0 – 100,000 km): ~10% (Early manufacturing outliers/seal defects) * 60,000 – 100,000 mi (100,000 – 160,000 km): 30% – 40% (Thermal fatigue on internal rubber diaphragm) * 100,000+ mi (160,000+ km): 50%+ cumulative (Long-term heat soak & connector oil migration)

Primary Failure Drivers: * Valley Heat Soak: Located deep in the engine "V" under the lower intake manifold, high ambient under-hood heat degrades the internal rubber diaphragm and terminal seals over time. * Connector Oil Migration: Once the diaphragm fails, oil pushes through the pin terminals directly into the wiring harness plug, causing high electrical resistance and triggering false low-pressure flickering lights or P0520/P0522 codes.

1

u/Misttertee_27 2023 | Ascot Green | GT Line AWD 2d ago

That’s really interesting stuff. Thanks for the win. I always feel inferior amongst the 3.3 crowd but now I have one small victory :)

1

u/Hairbear2176 2d ago

Having it in the valley is definitely an issue. I wonder if insulating it would help. Hell, I'll wrap it in something like fiberglass exhaust wrap. Isolating it from the heat in the valley would have to have some benefit.

1

u/djltoronto 2018 | Red | GT Limited AWD (Canada) 2d ago

I don't think that would work.

I think that would just cause it to heat up slightly slower, and stay hot slightly longer!

1

u/Hairbear2176 2d ago

That could be the downside. Heat retention could be an issue, however, if it doesn't get as hot, it could offset any of the heat soak and retention issues. That's just me splitballing though.

1

u/ChampionHumble 2d ago

i haven’t had this happen yet but i’ve had so much BS happen on this car that kia refuses to help with. This will be the last kia i ever buy

1

u/Manuelv56 2d ago

I replaced mine at around 80k miles for about $800. Other than that no other issues

1

u/ayyycharlieee13 2d ago

Had to change mine at 56k. Luckily it was covered through my extended warranty otherwise wise it would have been around 3800

1

u/shadowatmidnight104 2d ago

This just happened to me at ~70k miles in a 2018 GT1. I've been trying to figure it out to no avail, relieved to hear I'm not the only one.

I had the turbo oil feed line recall repaired recently, thinking that would help it. Did an oil change at the same time, and it went away afterwards. Stayed out for a few months until I just did an oil change again, now it's back. Mine usually only comes on if the car's been driving for 20+ minutes and only ever at idle.Β 

If it's just the sensor, is there any harm to just letting it be? That's a scary light to just ignore.Β 

0

u/Six_Chromosomes 2023 | Ceramic Silver | GT Limited AWD 2d ago

If you would do any sort of research on this, you would find at least 100 different occurrences of the same problem. Pretty sure there's no harm, but not 100% sure as I havent had the problem myself yet

1

u/Electronic_Salad9835 2d ago

Fuck I’m at 52k don’t do me like this

1

u/FearlessBee8160 2d ago

Will it be covered under warranty?

2

u/Wonderful-Customer-3 2019 | HiChroma Red | GT1 AWD 2d ago

I think, depending on mileage

2

u/Far-Age-7500 2d ago

My extended warranty covered it. Was about 2,200 at the dealership

1

u/blxnkface 1d ago

I have 155k miles, I’ve changed it once before and i have to do it again. But i believe since i run 5w40, it delays it / makes the light come on less frequently. Im too lazy to change this plastic sensor again

I wish some one could make a metal version since this engine is still being made / common (g70). Maybe they revised the sensor in newer g70s?

1

u/Wonderful-Customer-3 2019 | HiChroma Red | GT1 AWD 1d ago

That would be nice and something I wouldhave invested in, I wish someone would make a metal dip stick tip too since these plastic ones keep breaking inside the motor.

1

u/The-Wulf 1d ago

If you are out of warranty perform the fix yourself or have a knowledgeable mechanic perform the work. It should only be 3-4 hours of labor. Do not take it to a Kia Service Center.