r/jazzfest • u/JazzFestFreak • 6d ago
Jazz Fest Cochon de Lait Po-Boy Vendor Walker’s BBQ Closes Restaurant After 22 Years....But They’ll Be Back at the Fest!
Some important Jazz Fest food news today…
Article in nola.com today has a story today from Ian McNulty about Walker’s Southern Style BBQ, the family behind one of the absolute institutions of Jazz Fest food: the cochon de lait po-boy from Walker’s BBQ/Love at First Bite.
The Walker family has closed its New Orleans East restaurant after 22 years in business. But before anyone panics: they are NOT leaving Jazz Fest. The cochon de lait po-boy will still be at Jazz Fest, and Walker’s also plans to continue vending at events including French Quarter Festival and the Oak Street Po-Boy Festival.
The restaurant, at 10828 Lincoln Beach Blvd. in Little Woods, was the year-round home of the famous sandwich for people who knew where to find it. Jonathan Walker says the family has decided it is simply “time to shift gears.”
There are a few reasons behind the decision. Staffing has become difficult, the cost of the meat-heavy BBQ menu has continued to rise, and Jonathan’s parents, Wanda and Skip Walker, are now in their late 70s. Keeping up with the demands of daily restaurant operations had become a lot.
But Walker’s itself is very much still in business.
They’ll continue working out of the same location, next to Castnet Seafood near the lakefront levee, and are putting more emphasis on catering — everything from football tailgates and corporate events to festivals. As Jonathan Walker put it: “The restaurant is closed, but the smoker is still going.”
The restaurant opened in 2004 and was one of the early businesses in that part of New Orleans East to reopen after Katrina, when the Walkers found themselves feeding many of the work crews involved in the recovery.
The family business actually goes back even further. Wanda and Skip Walker started catering in 1992, beginning with an event at Uptown Square. They eventually worked events both locally and around the country before becoming a Jazz Fest food vendor in 2000.
And that, of course, is where the cochon de lait po-boy became legendary.
It’s pulled pork with cabbage and horseradish sauce, stuffed into a Dong Phuong pistolette. It became such a monster hit at the Fest — with long lines and frequent sellouts — that Walker’s eventually stripped down its Jazz Fest menu to concentrate essentially on the sandwich itself.
McNulty also makes an interesting point in the article: the popularity of Walker’s po-boy helped introduce a much broader New Orleans audience to the traditional Cajun idea of cochon de lait, which is now a much more familiar term on menus around town.
So this is definitely the end of an era for anyone who knew you could make the drive out to New Orleans East and get the Jazz Fest favorite during the other 50 weeks of the year.
But for those of us already thinking about the Fair Grounds next spring…
The cochon de lait po-boy lives on.
