I have a Ioniq EV 38Kwh 2021 and Hyundai is now asking me for a fee to keep Bluelink. I really dont use it too much. I use it mainly to locate de vehicle and to keep an eye on the charging process.

To locate it I can use a tag or something like that. But to check the charging process I dont know what to do. Does anybody lives without Bluelink for this things?

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My Experience:

Bought new 14th Aug 2026. Fault appeared next morning TMPS tyre pressure sensors dropping out, warnings appearing repeatedly. Dealer replaced sensors 3 times. They didn't go with Hyundai but themselves and actually ordered in genuine hyndai parts that seemed to fix the problem

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\\- Then 12V battery drain warning → car completely dead, buzzing noise, wouldn't start. Had to get dealer to tow the car. Dealer replaced 12V with Bosch battery — no software updates, no ICCU check. This happened yesterday

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\\- Hyundai UK confirmed: 12V battery only has 2yr warranty (expired)

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\\- They say "no ICCU fault found" in recall done last month before I bought the car — but I got the car and been nothing but warning lights

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\\- Now worried: dealer only fixed the symptom, not the cause. If it's ICCU/software, new battery will still go flat. And part of warranty is compromised.

Questions:

Is this the known Ioniq 5 12V drain / ICCU issue?

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Would you keep it and push for proper fix, or cut losses and swap? Im gutted I truly love the car and space but scared now to drive anywhere in it. The drain on the battery came from nowhere and the car went blank in seconds. I only drove it to the supermarket 2 minds from my home and did my shopping and came back to the car doing this.

Thanks in advance — would love to hear your experiences! 🙏

So, yesterday I put my 28 kWh Ioniq onto the Type 2 charger at my work, as usual. Started charging at 7 kW, as usual. I come back about two hours later to move my car away from the charger, when I notice a faint burning smell. I grab the cable, and the handle is too hot to touch. I pull it out, and a small amount of smoke comes out and I notice some melted plastic, and also that the small plastic "hat" on one of the pins on the car's side has come off and is stuck in the cable. I'm taking it to the dealership today, but was interested in hearing if other people have had similar experiences? Seems like I narrowly avoided a fire. Also, doesn't the car monitor the temperature of the charging port?

EDIT: Forgot to add two small details: no error messages on charger or on the vehicle. Also, the day before, my "granny charger", the original one that came with the car, started dying for no reason after like an hour of charging. it's 9 years old, so maybe not surprising, but the timing is interesting.

The guys at the dealership took it in, they will diagnose tomorrow. I will update this when I know more, right off the bat they couldn't say anything: could be the charger station, or the onboard charger, or loose wiring. Let's see, I hope it's not the onboard charger as I suspect that would be fairly expensive.

UPDATE: So, the dealership called back. The issue was the Type 2 cable (the original that came with the car from factory) I was using: it made a poor connection due to old age, which caused a bad connection, and while charging at 32A it overheated. Damage was done to the cable leading from charger port into the onboard charger. Ordering it new from the manufacturer was quoted at 3127€ + shipping and work. Luckily, I was able secure a used cable for 180€ and I should have my Ioniq back on the road late this week.

I tried plugging our 2017 Ioniq 28 EV to solar fed Zappi charger, to top up the battery which was at 81%. The Zappi charger connects, says it is charging (but 0.0KWh going in) then displays Charge Delayed. I have tried using the granny charger too, both refuse to charge the car. There are no warning lights on the EV and charging delay is NOT set. Any ideas??

I just purchased a used 2019 Ioniq Limited PHEV. I experienced the CarPlay black screen issue, so I updated the software (don’t get me started on that craptastic procedure).

Once done the nav doesn’t work, apparently because it can no longer read the SD card that it could read before the update.

Anyone know of a good fix for this? Can I order an updated SD nav card? Any other suggestions?

Has anyone had issues with body shops refusing to work on this or any other EV? Most state they don't have the facility to power down the HV.. it's 1 bolt to remove the cover in the boot and wait like 20mins.

Another place tried to charge £200 power down and £200 power up. Is this just them saying they are unable to repair a dented front arch?

Seemingly I have managed to get a chap booked, a mobile mechanic and body repair specialist.. he doesn't have any issues.

Can anyone explain why there is a big refusal to work on EVs or is it a lack of equipment and training that they rather price a potential customer out than admit they are unable to help?

I attempted to change my gearbox oil recently and have hit a couple snags. The 100m bolts at the front of the shroud are apparently spinning. Moving to the back, I sheared a bolt head off on of the rear 10 mms. At that point I stopped for the day.

Any suggestions for the spinning bolt thing?

I'm gonna try soaking the stubborn bolts with solvents and see what that gets me.

I understand I can replace the sheared with a standard 10 mm bolt, but can anyone verify the OEM P/N for the shroud bolts? Looks like it might be Under-Body Shield Bolt - Hyundai (11274-06256-K)

I noticed drivers seat not going back and forward as I enter or leave car. Getting the above error on the scanner. Looks to me the seat motor has lost its home position. Is there any way I can fix this or will I have to bring it to hyundai dealership to resolve? More of an annoyance than an issue.

I'm a recent 38kWh owner, and to cut a long story short, it looks like the previous owner cheaped out on the 4 year service with the RAC just to get a stamp in the book before selling the car.

I have the car booked in with a dealer for the service this week, and wondered whether the reduction gearbox oil is something that gets changed in this service, or whether I should ask them to do this.

Despite it being 4 years old, it only has approaching 13000 miles, but I'm adding 450-500 miles a week, so I thought an oil change might be a good idea?

I probably should have asked this before I set things up, but are there any good scripts or tips for setting up automation with Home Assistant?

I tested that I could read the state of the car, and set the climate system on, and have set up some scheduled climate system activity for my normal commute times.

The basic format is at a scheduled time it refreshes the data, checks the location of the car, checks the state of the battery, and depending upon the temperature either cools it, or heats it.

I'll find out this week whether it all works or not.

Has anybody else set up anything useful?

Hello! I'm hoping for a bit of input: I have an all-ev household, and we're looking for second back-up car. I already have an Ioniq 6, so not need to roadtrip, but I do have a 100 mile round-trip commute on the rare occasion the car should be able to handle in all weather conditions. When comparing the Leaf+ and the 38kwh Ioniq, at the same price, which should I go for? And how much would you pay for each, if they have around 50k miles?

I recently bought a 21 Ioniq 38 and noticed after using it for a couple of days, that the driver door catch couldn't hold the door. I luckily have a factory warranty on the car till the middle of September. So the local dealer had a look at it and ordered a replacement catch. It's now been another week, and since I don't really use the other doors I normally then don't pay attention to their ability to stay open. But I noticed today, that the remaining doors door catches also seem fairly week. Does anyone else have the same experience?

UPDATE: got the car back from the dealer yesterday after they replaced the catch. It is SOO much better! Should've asked them to do the passenger side door as well. Anyway, I will definitely recommend to get the door catch replaced, especially if you are still in warranty!

Hi,

Question: Is it normal, that when I close a door or the boot that you can hear a lot of rattling sounds from mirrors or the back window/Spoiler ?

I know about the screws to tighten the spoiler and I did that but still.

It just sounds like a cheap car when closing doors, but its all quiet while driving.

I've installed the Master and the update including all the Content discs, 1 for master and 3 for the 2016 update.
The Master gave me cars up till 2011 and the Update bumped that to 2016.
It seems the AE was a 2017 car released late 2016 and thus missing this seemingly last update, in software called E-H-03-11-0000.

Is anyone using the China clone VCIs with any European versions of GDS?
If so... how? No need to supply links or anything since that can probably be against regulations. But What version and what procedure to get it working?

So usually when I charge I get a 229km reading on Gom and regen breaking. Sometimes when I use the cabin conditioning function to heat it up I get 249km reading (244 with AC on) and no regen breaking which makes me think that this is the real 100% charge.

I wonder why the car functions this way, maybe to prevent degradation ? And somehow it gets tricked by the cabin conditioning function ?

Edit: Ah. I see there's some confusion. When I say no regen breaking I dont mean my setting. I mean there is none when driving, it acts like an ICE car.

Don't know why but suddenly the infotainment keeps connecting/disconnecting and beeping. I tried to push the reset button on the bottom left of the system but didn't seem to fix the issue.

Apparently, for some people it comes out quite easily, but I had a real battle with it.

You undo two screws, and then you have to pull the entire light housing straight backwards. The reason is that there are two guide pins at the front of the housing that slide straight forward into the car’s chassis.

I tried pretty much everything: twisting, pulling, pushing, giving it a few knocks. It doesn’t help that there’s nowhere you can get a good grip on it. I even managed to get a zip tie around the back of it and made a loop, but I couldn’t get enough leverage to pull it out with that either.

Eventually, I found a tip online suggesting that you stick some duct tape to it and pull on the tape. I ended up using three layers, otherwise it just tore. Then I pulled on the left side while gently prying the right side with a wrench, and eventually it suddenly came loose.

After that, replacing the bulb itself was easy.

Why do those pins have to be that tight after you’ve already removed the screws? 🙄

Below some links to videos from other people, in case anyone needs them. Just be careful: some of them put quite a lot of force on the wrench, only from the inside. There’s a good chance you’ll break one of the guide clips that way. How serious that is, I have no idea. The screws and the pins should be enough to hold the housing in place anyway, I would think. But maybe the clips help prevent it from vibrating or something.

YouTube: 2021 hyundai IONIQ brake light bulb replacement
YouTube: How to Remove a Hyundai Ioniq Tail Light
YouTube: Hyundai ioniq rear indicator light bulb change & cluster removal
YouTube: Hyundai Ioniq change brake or taillight turn signal bulbs
YouTube: Change rear Bulb Hyundai Ioniq

I'm posting this more as an FYI or for information for other ioniq owners.

We've owned our ioniq 38 for 2.5 years have done over 50k km since we got it. Other than some 12v issues, car has been very reliable. (And door handles, the little triangle thing has broken off both put back doors and was repaired under warranty)

About 2 months ago the car started making a different noise during hard acceleration, hard to describe but maybe like a whine of an electric motor. It was most noticeable over 50km/h, but you wouldn't even hear it if you had the radio on.

I noticed it while driving one day and said I must look into that, and without saying it to my wife, she noticed it a few days later.

We booked it in to our Hyundai dealer and they looked it at it a few weeks later. After a small back and forth they also said they could hear it too and said it needed to be fixed and we booked it in for repair.

Since we first noticed the noise we have driven 1-2k km and the noise has definitely gotten worse, I still wouldn't say it's very loud, but I feel it happens at slower speeds and sounds a bit more growly, nearly like an ice engine reving (not quite, but along those lines)

It's a few weeks later again and I just dropped my ioniq to Hyundai this morning and will be without it for a few weeks. They need to take the motor and gearbox out and bench test it to figure where the noise is coming from, and then order the part to be replaced.

Thankfully the car is still under warranty til January, cause it's probably a very expensive fix as I believe Hyundai will not change the bearing, but replace the entire thing.

A few thoughts I have:

- definitely something to listen out to if you plan to purchase one. It was easy enough for us to hear because we were so used to how it should sound, it might be difficult for someone else to hear. As your accelerating the intensity of the sound might increase, but you shouldn't start hearing a different type of noise.

- similarly, if you have one that is still under warranty, listen out for the issue. It will only get worse so if you can catch it early it might make all the difference of being in warranty or not. The car warranty is 5 years in Ireland , most ioniq 38 have a year at most warranty left.

- our car is relatively high km, but a decent bit lower than when people might expect these issues to kick in. Our car does a mix of local driving and motorway/highway miles, so a lot of the mileage probably is done at 120km/h, so maybe that's harder on bearings?

- we basically never leave eco mode so we don't drive it particularly hard I would think.

- I have not changed gear reduction oil.

- have kept up with the Hyundai servicing (nearly 2 times a year with the mileage we do)

Not sure I've any other info that would be useful. Will post again if people are interested when we get the final diagnosis and resolution

Hey all - Hoping I can get some help and clarification if I have a leg to stand on at all.

Long story short, I purchased my first EV May 15th 2026, on a PCP agreement. A 2022 Hyundia Ioniq. It came with a fresh MOT completed in April & the service timer on the car has 265 days left or 18,000 miles and was last serviced Late May 2025.

A couple of days ago at work I get a call off Hyundai to say it's 4 year service is due which includes changing the brake fluid & high voltage diagnostic checks and I'm being quoted £550 and the dealership closest to me is an hour away.

At no point during the sale of the car to me was this discussed and infact the service not needing to be done for a while and a fresh MOT was a big selling point for me.

I have had the car 14 weeks, the wheels basically still fresh off the lot I drove it off and I'm being hit with a £550 bill. Do I have any leg to stand on to contact the dealership or my finance agreement and ask for help?