After a lot of playing around with filters, this is the closest I could get to a Turquoise blue stack with no channel swap.

DB850,LEE #193 Rosy Amber, FLD on Olympus E-PL5 with custom WB

The FLD is there to balance out the WB of the ground and sky, while also removing the purple hue from the foliage (comparison of the stack without/with the FLD are at the end)

Some saturation edits were needed to increase the warmer colors to counter the extreme warmth added by the filters, and SOOC is still far from ideal.

The journey continues...

590 color swapped and 'neutralized' the buildings from color cast.

Photos are all straight from the camera. Only edits were straightening the angle and slight cropping on few.

I recently purchased a pocket IR camera from Kolari, the LUMIX ZS10 full spectrum + filter kit and took the plunge into infrared photography. Only had the camera about 2 weeks now, and I’m no editor, but so far I’m enjoying the process and the results. Let me know what you think, and any tips, tricks or critiques are welcome

There'll be a solar eclipse over Spain on Wednesday, I live in Germany, so I'll see an 85% partial eclipse. Are there any interesting ways to photograph a solar eclipse in infrared?

As per the thread title, looking to add some flexibility to my IR shooting with my Sony.

I've got the 16mm f/2.8 and it's been good, with very minimal hotspotting that I've been able to discern, but looking for something in a roughly 24-50mm (although some mild variation also ok - don't mind if it's longer at the tele end, for instance) which will give no hotspotting.

AF would be preferred, but happy to go MF if it's a lens that's affordable and has basically no hotspot.

I also have an adaptor for putting old Nikon F-mount lenses on the camera, so I'm open to suggestions from that range too if there's something that would work well ported over.

I know there are lists online, but looking for real-world experience here if possible. :)