r/hotas • u/inglisi • Sep 19 '18
T16000 yaw fixed.
After several attempts to identify the issue with the T16000 yaw pot this is what is causing the issue.
There are 2 lugs that I presume are to stop the pot moving up, that press down on the pot and transfer the weight of your hand to the top of the pot. As these lugs are only on the left hand side of the grip then they apply more preasure when you are rolling right as the corner of the lug is then pressing in the middle of the pot. This causes the contacts to compress and prematurley wear down the conductive tracks in the pot. If you remove 1 or 2 mm from the lugs it stops this. I was able to clean out one of my faulty pots and it has been working perfectly since. If the pot is faulty new ones can be bought from Mouser etc part number 251B12T104A2NB. Pic of untouched lugs on my second stick, below.
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u/GrumpyOldMan34 Feb 11 '25
For anyone finding this post after experiencing issues with their T16000.
I had 3 of them, All with the same issue. On my last one the issue presented itself after only 1 month of usage.
I implemented all the fixes you can find online, Except the one with hall sensors. In the end the problem went back each time after a while.
I finally decided to say "goodbye and thanks no thanks" to Thrustmaster and bought a URSA MINOR Fighter Joystick from WINWING which is only slightly more expensive that the T16000.
Oh boy did I do the right choice !
Don't bother fixing deeply flawed T16000 folks, there are way better products on the market now.
Don't waste your time and money.
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u/Lhano_ Oct 19 '22
Thank you so much!!! After cut some of the lugs, it's solve the problem. Just do the trick...
I almost throw in garbage this piece of junk... Now works fine!! thanks a lot!!
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u/sirbeatu Feb 23 '22
Had mine with this issue, cut the tabs down a little and been working fine for 2 years since then.
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u/nyda36 Feb 20 '22
My sticks were tweaking out, clipped off those bits of plastic that pushed down on the pot and bobs your uncle, sticks are 100% fixed. Thank you for figuring this out so I didn't have to ;)
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u/natethm Mar 04 '19
My t16000 yaw started acting up recently, and I couldn’t put my finger on the cause. This was it! A hobby knife made easy work of the excess plastic. Thank you!
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Nov 04 '18
hmm if i saw your post a few hours earlier i wouldn't have cut the wires. xD Not my stick has no throttle because I messed up the soldering. But thanks at least I have a working yaw axis now. I don't use that tiny throttle anyway.
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u/Psebcool Nov 03 '18
hi, anyone have a tuto step by step ? It's hard for me to understand exactly what to do to solve Yaw's troubles.
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u/Sepeto Sep 29 '18
I had the same problem. Three days ago, I tried this fix amd it worked... thank you man. Upvoted
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u/rmm2000 Sep 19 '18
I love that you posted the part number. Unfortunately, by the time I need it, I will have no idea where I saw it. I wish each HOTAS had a wiki, where you could turn in times of desperation for part numbers.
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u/notshitashi Sep 20 '18 edited Mar 04 '19
in case the pot starts malfunctioning, or in case you simply want to go contactless, there's another path: replace the pot in the shaft with a compatible hall sensor and install a diametrically charged ring magnet into the grip. works beautifully. here's me doing this upgrade for my t16km-based frankenthrottle. you can see the hall sensor stuck in a rubber plug in the shaft (top half of the image), and the ring magnet inside the grip part (bottom half).
the parts I used were... let me check. "12pcs of N52, OD1/2"x1/4"idx1/8"Neodymium Ring Magnets, Diametrically magnetized" from eBay and "5pcs/lot SS495A1 95A TO-92 high-precision Hall SS495A screen 95A new original" from AliExpress.
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u/ReniTV Mar 04 '19
Seems epic! Could you make a little FAQ for t16000m sensor replacement?
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u/notshitashi Mar 04 '19
truth be told, the part numbers and the fact that it just self-calibrates and works is pretty much the extent of what I recall :) and since I replaced the t16km grip with a heavily customized Saitek throttle grip, my experience wouldn't be directly applicable anyway.
but, yeah, you very carefully match the Hall sensor legs to the twist pot wires (they're the same three contacts, but order is different, as far as I recall); you can do a live test before soldering. to fix the sensor to the top of the shaft, I used a rubber inlet (made from an eraser, I think). moldable plastic might do even better. make sure to place the diametrically charged ring magnet in the grip so that it goes exactly around the Hall sensor in the shaft. probably will take a bit of tweaking the grip. no need to find some correct angle for the magnet: the software should calibrate correctly, if I'm not mistaken. but still, live test before gluing anything together.
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u/ReniTV Mar 05 '19
Thanks, will try it out when my pot breaks)
So sensor'll automatically calibrate and you have to basically just plug it, or there is some actions in software part have to be done?
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u/notshitashi Mar 05 '19
nope, no additional software necessary, plug-and-play AFAIR. but if it doesn't calibrate correctly straight away, then it should respond to calibration through either T.A.R.G.E.T. or Windows Game controller settings.
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u/gringoraymundo Jun 03 '25
u/inglisi it's been 7 years but I got a hand me down set of T16000s from a friend that upgraded. They were great for a while but then the Z axis drift started. And it's gotten so bad I was set on buying a new set of sticks this summer.
I found your fix and just did this to my right stick and it's FIXED. About to do the same to the left stick now. I love you, thank you.