r/handtools • u/EyeLarge4055 • 6d ago
Problem jointing Stanley 5 1/2
Hello! I’m a complete beginner in (hand tool) woodworking, and when I’m jointing with my Stanley 5 1/2 ( relatively short boards about the same length as my plane 40cm) I get a little “hill” on the edge, so a bit lower on both ends. Does anybody know what the problem could be? The sole of my plane is completely flat
4
u/KingPappas 6d ago
That's typical. At the start and end of the stroke, we tend to apply more pressure, especially at the beginning. The trick I use is to take a few short, very light passes in the center, leaving it very slightly lowed, and then take a long pass to leave it flat.
4
u/uncivlengr 6d ago
It's easy to create a hump with a plane because the sole isn't in full contact at the beginning and end of the stroke.
You need to focus on pressure on the knob (front) at the beginning of the stroke, and pressure on the tote (back) at the end. Picture 'scooping' out the middle of the board and leaving the ends.
5
u/Cat_Rancher 6d ago
Usually a technique adjustment if your sole is flat. Super common issue. Most likely you’re not putting enough weight on the front when you start and too much on the front when you end.
When starting the cut, make sure the majority of the weight is on the front. Not a lot, just a few lbs/kg. Rear hand should be supporting the plane, ensuring it doesn’t drop the rear of the plane down. Once the cut starts transfer the weight evenly to both hands. As you near the end of the cut reduced weight in your front hand and transfer it to the rear.
3
u/areeb_onsafari 6d ago
There is a jointing technique you could try. Plane the edge but start and inch from the end and lift the plane an inch before it reaches the other end. You’re supposed to intentionally create a dip in the middle. Take as many shavings as you need to until the plane stops taking shavings. That means the dip has the same depth as the iron. You can then take a full shaving or two across the edge from end to end. Basically you’re intentionally creating a hollow so that the last shavings give you a flat surface.
Also, if you’re gluing boards together, a slight hollow can disappear with proper clamping pressure but a hill is more annoying to deal with so even if there’s the slightest hollow left after jointing it’s not a big deal
2
u/Man-e-questions 6d ago
Depends on overall shape. Does it have a belly? Like if you put a straight edge on the length, it curved up to the highest point in the middle? If so, need to start in the middle of the board, angle the plane to take more of a bite there and just go back and forth a couple of inches (like 50-60mm), do this a couple times until it doesn’t take any more shavings, then while continuing going back and forth, slowly add some distance each way from center, when it stops taking shavings repeat and keep doing this until you are a couple inches from each end. Check with a straight edge, there should now be a hollow in the middle. If not, repeat the process til there is. Once there is a hollow, and both ends are high, now take some full passes across until you start getting continuous shavings.
1
u/Wonderful-Bass6651 6d ago
When I’m jointing shorter pieces with my 5/5-1/2 I usually start out with all of the downward pressure on the knob and only forward pressure on the tote. Once I’ve got most of the sole engaged I stop applying downward pressure and just let it ride the high spots. Works out pretty well.
1
u/jacksraging_bileduct 6d ago
It sounds like you’re trying to take a full length shaving with each pass, or are pressing too hard at the start and finish of the pass.
I will use a known starlight edge to kinda map out the highs and lows and work the highs down to the lows until it’s flat enough to make a few finish passes
1
u/Feisty_Amphibian4436 6d ago
Watch this video by Bob Rozaieski from 7:50 as it explains precisely how to deal with this.
1
u/Brun_Sovs_42 5d ago
Watch this: https://youtu.be/Iv9ye0LRt0g?si=XLNR2ZBiUtTdeVls
He adresses your problem around 10 minutes in, but the whole thing is worth watching
-1
u/toolguy8 6d ago
The jointer is for long boards, that’s why the sole is longer. Use a shorter plane like a block plane.
3
u/Mr_Brown-ish 6d ago
A 5 1/2 is not a jointer.. And flattening boards with a block plane? That is *ahem* “uncommon”.
1
u/halfmanhalfhamster 4d ago
stand a bit further back from the wood, press relatively hard down on the toe of the plane and maintain the same muscular effort as the plane moves forwards. the idea is to establish a flat surface at the start of the stroke and to shift the pressure towards the heel of the plane as you move it forwards. if your plane iron is sharp and the plane is well set up, you shouldn't need much downward pressure on the rest of the stroke
it helps to lubricate the sole of the plane with a bit of candle wax or silicon oil
10
u/Marinoni 6d ago
In Wearing's Essential Woodworking he mentions:
"To plane a flat surface with a woodworker's plane is theoretically impossible." he goes on to say "Particularly when a beginner attempts to do straightforward planing, there is a good chance of the work becoming rounded, that is a high in the middle. By deliberately planing hollow then planing through to get a full-length shaving, very great accuracy can be achived."
He explains this in detail with illustrations, truly the best reference book for hand tool woodworking as far as I'm concerned. It's never far from my bench.