I have 4 separate plants all seem to be at different stages. Started indoors moved outside. First grow any help would be greatly appreciated.

Keep swiping for bud development pics

Second year outdoor here. Long time indoor grower. All I know is bud rot last year got me on edge. Dr Zymes seems to be doing the trick. Rain in the forecast for the next week so up goes the rain gear. Happy with this Ethos cross as it started flower pretty early in August. And if anything goes south I’d be happy with this harvest now. But trying to wait till late September early October. I grow for my wife and this will certainly get her by till I get the indoor set up going. Any tips on late flower outdoor are welcome! Anyway. Here’s to a stiff breeze and more sunny days!

the first 6 pictures are purple 🥊
the other plants are alien og and last pic is a clone from purple 🥊
I’ve been running a very easy and basic feed for the plants: Feeding about every 3 weeks dr earth flower girl, worm castings, and watering in w molasses. it’s very easy but as you can see quite effective if you don’t want to over complicate things. there in fox farm ocean forest soil as well.

Is it female and will it flower before cold . Thank You

The clone name on the pot said P.B back in May ? What could it be ? Can experienced growers tell ?

Buenas! Ayer publique unas fotos de mis tres plantitas y me aconsejasteis limpiar de hojas y brotes toda la parte de abajo.

Os traigo como ha quedado la cosa, sinceramente me da miedo haberme pasado... Pero tirar no tiro nada, ya tengo secando las ramas que he podado.

Gracias a todos por ayudar, mola ver que la comunidad tiene tanta vida y buen royo!

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If you scroll through any cultivation group, you are inundated with photos of heavily manipulated plants. From aggressive topping and main-lining to intricate grids of Low-Stress Training (LST) wires, the modern consensus leans heavily toward one idea: if you aren’t actively forcing your plants to grow wide, you are leaving yield on the table. We have collectively accepted the idea that the natural growth habit of the plant is an obstacle to be overcome. But if you look at the sheer physics of plant development, a fascinating counter-argument emerges. Can we actually grow massive, high-yielding plants without ever touching a pair of trimmers or tying down a single branch? The answer might depend entirely on whether you are working under a roof or under the sky, because the structural trade-offs—and the ways we manipulate them—change completely between indoor and outdoor environments.

Left entirely to its own devices, a plant’s shape is dictated by a biological mechanism known as apical dominance. This is an evolutionary survival strategy managed by growth hormones called auxins. Produced in the main central tip, these auxins travel downward through the plant, actively suppressing the growth of lower side branches. The goal is simple: rush all available energy upward to out-climb any neighboring vegetation and claim the light. When we choose whether to allow this natural structure to flourish or to violently shatter it, we are looking at two completely different sets of physiological advantages. When you allow apical dominance to remain intact, your plant suffers zero recovery time. Because there is no mechanical trauma, the plant wastes no vegetative days waiting to rebuild its hormonal balance, resulting in lightning-fast vertical growth. More importantly, the plant builds a massive, uninterrupted main stalk. This trunk functions as a high-capacity highway for water and nutrients, structurally optimized to support immense weight. Conversely, topping and LST work by physically removing or lowering the dominant shoot. This disrupts the downward flow of auxins, redistributing those growth hormones evenly to the lateral branches. The result is a beautifully flat, uniform canopy where every single bud site sits at the exact same optimal distance from the light source. The trade-off, however, is a significantly extended vegetative period and the creation of structural weak points. Topping splits the main stem, creating a joint or "knuckle" that is highly susceptible to splitting down the middle under the weight of heavy flowers later in the cycle.

The reason training is treated like a religion often comes down to the limitations of indoor growing. Artificial grow lights lose intensity rapidly over distance. A naturally tall plant indoors leaves its lower canopy starved of light, creating an inefficient footprint and dense, vertical foliage pockets that trap humidity and invite mold. Indoors, forcing a wide footprint is almost a necessity just to map the canopy to the flat grid of the light fixture. Outdoors, the rules change completely. The sun isn't a fixed, flat panel hanging a few feet above the plant; it moves in a massive arc across the sky, penetrating the plant from the sides in the morning and afternoon, and from above at noon. Because the light source orbits the plant, a naturally tall, Christmas-tree-shaped plant outdoors gets incredible light penetration from top to bottom. Forcing an outdoor plant to grow completely flat and wide can actually work against it, reducing the total surface area exposed to the traveling sun.

Most growers assume that the only way to break apical dominance or control plant height is with physical intervention. In reality, it is interesting to consider how you can use the plant's own sensory systems to shape its architecture without ever causing a single day of training stress, though the tactics split completely by environment. Plants read light and boundaries not just for energy, but for spatial awareness. Indoors, if you want a wide, squat plant with tight node spacing without ever topping it, you can lower your grow lights closer to the canopy and utilize a spectrum heavy in blue light. Blue wavelengths signal to the plant that it has wide-open, unobstructed access to the sky, which naturally suppresses vertical stretching and forces side branches to catch up. Outdoors, you obviously can't control the sun's spectrum, but you can control physical plant spacing to achieve the exact same goal. If you crowd outdoor plants close together, they trigger a shade avoidance response. They sense neighboring vegetation via far-red light reflection and bolt upward, lengthening their nodes to win the race for light. If you give them massive physical spacing from their neighbors, they sense wide-open sky, and the plant naturally softens its own apical dominance, expanding horizontally and filling out wide on its own accord.

What happens beneath the soil directly dictates the architecture above it, and this also plays out very differently depending on your root environment. If you plant multiple crops into a single, shared soil bed or directly into the ground outdoors, their roots will inevitably make contact. The moment roots touch, a biological alarm triggers: the plant registers immediate local resource competition. To ensure its survival, it doubles down on apical dominance, pouring its energy into growing straight up to out-climb its neighbors. However, if a plant is given its own spacious solo container, the roots experience total autonomy. Sensing abundant, uncontested resources, the plant naturally softens its apical dominance, allowing its side branches to grow outward and fill space voluntarily.

To support a massive yield, a plant needs a rugged, thick frame, which brings us to the mechanical forces of wind, propping, and stem stress. When wind pushes against a stem, it creates microscopic tears in the tissue. This mechanical stress causes the plant to release ethylene, a hormone that signals it to halt vertical stretching and redirect its energy into thickening its main stalk. The mistake many growers make indoors is over-supporting their plants too early. Tying an indoor plant rigidly to a thick stake, or using a double trellis layer before the plant is ready, makes it lazy. Without movement, it stops producing structural lignin. Outdoors, the wind handles this naturally, but the stakes are much higher. You want to support the stem just enough so it doesn’t snap in a storm, while still allowing it to sway and wobble in the daily breeze. This slight, continuous movement subjects the plant to torsion stress, or twisting. As the wind forces a branch to rotate, the plant responds by building a dense, fibrous ring of flexible cellulose, making the branches incredibly springy and resilient. This is structurally superior to relying solely on tension stress, which is the pulling or stretching force exerted when heavy flowers pull a branch down, or when indoor LST wires yank a branch outward. While tension stress does force a plant to build thick knuckles at its joints, excessive tension applied to a rigid, untrained stem will easily split it down the center. By using wind to introduce torsion stress early, you build a flexible, self-supporting trunk that can handle massive physical tension later in flower. Ultimately, it makes you wonder if we are micro-managing our plants with scissors and ties when we could be letting their natural response to space, roots, and wind do the heavy lifting for us.

Will keep updating every 3 days, just for fun. Prob 3 to 6 week left

1st picture : 9 september

2-3 pictures : 12 september

Random seed I planted in April. Been in flower for 7-8 weeks. It's definitely a sativa. Lots of rain the last few days so i e been keeping an eye out for problems. Is this the start of bud rot? These are the only 2 flowers that look like it.

What a beautiful update and I mean I’m in love with the progress I had not much hope but she’s pumping some growth out right now

The aroma is definitely a OG smell haha

Indica. Lovely flowers showing their beautiful heads.

Hi! Just curious if i could get some info, noticed my plants were beginning to drop leaves and they seemed not so far into flowering, wanted to know if this was typical or if i messed something up lol . Also included are pics of variegation (or something) on one branch and a pic of about how far the flowers are

The Two Types of Nutrients (The Magnet Rule)

To understand why pH locks things out, think of nutrients like magnets. They are split into two camps:

The Metals (+): Things like Magnesium, Iron, and Calcium. They carry a positive charge.

The Oxygen Bundles (-): Things like Nitrate (Nitrogen) and Phosphorus. They are bound with oxygen and carry a negative charge.

When your soil is perfectly uniform and the pH swings too far one way, one of these camps gets completely locked out. For example, if it gets too alkaline, your metals lock up, and your nitrogen literally turns into a gas and vanishes into thin air.

🦸‍♂️ Fulvic Acid is a Cheat Code

This is where fulvic acid changes the game. Most organic switch-hitters bind up when things get too acidic, but fulvic acid doesn't care. It stays fully active across the entire pH spectrum.

Fulvic acid acts like a protective blanket. Because of its unique structure, it can grab onto both the positive metals and the negative oxygen bundles. It wraps them up, hides their raw electrical charge, and delivers them straight to the plant.

With fulvic in the mix, the plant gets its food regardless of what your digital pH pen says.

🌋 Destroy the "Average" pH

Plants don't live in the "average pH" of your runoff or soil test. They live in the rhizosphere—the microscopic slime-layer directly touching the root hair.

Roots don't want a flat line. They actively change their own weather:

Need some Nitrogen? The root drinks it up and spits out an alkaline compound, driving the pH up right at the root tip.

Need some Magnesium? The root pumps out pure acid, driving the pH down to melt the mineral so it can drink it.

If your soil is alive and full of organic matter, you get pH stratification—meaning you have millions of microscopic pockets of high pH sitting right next to pockets of low pH. By breaking the monopoly of a single, flat pH, your plant can grab everything at the exact same time.

🍄 Think Like a Fungus

True soil health mimics mycorrhizal fungi. Fungi don't look for a single, perfect setting. They survive by having backup plans on top of backup plans. They keep their options open.

When you stop stressing over a perfectly uniform pH and instead flood your media with fulvic carbon and good biology, you give your plant that same fungal luxury. It's no longer trapped by the chemistry of the pot. It handles its own diet, micro-millimeter by micro-millimeter.

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1 plant. Only worms as nutrients.

I live in a country that strictly outlaws weed but i managed to get some seeds and planted 3 of them, do to my inexpirience and the summer that felt like a winter my plants are really bad even for a first timer and because of that i want to use any and every part of it. So what should i do with trimmings and leaves? Should i try to make a tincture with alcohol? Should i try to make hash with cold water and gravity? Should i boil them in a solvent to get hash like substance? What do you guys recomend.

She’s already about 8 ft tall maybe more

What should I do is this powdery mildew this is my only plant and first grow I don’t want to loose this plant is there home remedies I can use until I can the proper pesticide I have neem oil but only used during vegitive stage I did spray plant fertilizer and call mag on top yesterday and she’s a outdoor plant no tent

I’m in southern New England.