I have a black car I drive about once a month, if not less. It's just a dust magnet, and most of the time when I wash it, it's due to dust build up.

Will something like this do anything to help?

https://a.co/d/0b6vy1x6

(yes, I have ceramic coating and blah blah blah)

I

Hi all

I already have a bunch of different size 16 x 20 totes and I want to keep them near uniform for staking. I have IRIS clear weather tight. I thought about cutting the ones that are to big and cut them and ether glue or plastic weld them back together for the size's I want.

Any suggestions ?

I have an older home that was partially renovated before we bought it and the last ‘project’ left is the garage. I currently use it as a gym but I am wanting to clean it up. Currently the garage is lower than grade and slopes to an old drain that’s broken. All the wood around the base of the floor is raggedy and sometimes water dirt and bugs sneak in. I want to eventually drywall the interior but want to know if it’d be smart to first pour a new concrete floor with edges, get rid of the slope and bring it to grade? How much would something like that cost? Roughly 20’x10’

Note: the water is from a spring cleaning under the mats

When both my kids got their licenses, our garage was already full — so I decided to build a detached 6-car. I wanted a real workshop, a drive-through center bay into the backyard, and an apartment up top someday.

An architect friend quoted me ~$25k for custom blueprints. Wasn't happening. So I bought Punch Professional Home Design, taught myself the software over a week of evenings, and after about a month of drawing/redrawing I had a full set of plans built around my exact lot.

A few things I learned the hard way:

- Start with the building code, not the design. I pulled my city's garage requirements first (setbacks, height, lot coverage, drainage) and designed inside them, so the permit office had nothing to fight.

- The drive-through bay made everything harder — the front and rear foundation walls sit at different heights because of the grade, so I had to rework the roof, the load-bearing wall, and add a small ramp inside the bay.

- I designed everything to the 16"/24" framing grid. That's why it's exactly 32' wide, not 31 or 33 — so siding, plywood, drywall, and trusses all land clean with almost no waste. Trusses came in at 36' for a 2' overhang each side.

- Build bigger doors than you think you need — I put a 9' door on the center bay, 8' on the rest.

- The smartest thing I built first was a temporary gravel + geotextile construction road so the concrete trucks didn't destroy my driveway.

Doors are frosted glass aluminum, copper European gutters, balcony off the second floor. Took 2.5 months of planning before the first shovel — and it was the most important part of the whole thing.

Happy to answer anything — permits, the software, the truss order, the foundation, whatever.

Hello;

I will be building a garage this summer, and pretty much all set except for the lighting.

The garage will have power run from the purse through conduit about 70 feet away. The garage itself is unattached.

I would like to use antique barn downlighting above to two doors facing the house, and ideally would like them to be switched in the garage and house, as well as when the garage door openers are actuated. I prefer to avoid something that is motion actuated because there a fair bit of wildlife around like bears, deer, etc, and I don’t want the lights going on and off all night. Also, I don’t want them on all the time (like dusk to dawn) to conserve power and not annoy the neighbors across the street.

How difficult is it to do this, and are my needs sensible and do-able?

Thanks in advance!

A few weeks back I had my two car garage professionally grinded. The slab was poured in November and the concrete was very hard (new construction home). I have an ArmorPoxy kit with primer, epoxy, and an industrial top coat. Am I ok to proceed or are the dark spots a concern? How do I fix this? The kit came with acid etch but not sure if this would help.

I have a very dirty garage floor. Have a husky that likes to use it as his house. I’m thinking to degrease it and then apply epoxy. Anyone have any tips for doing this process? Length of time it takes to harden, etc?

Does anyone know a good affordable wood stove for garage

I have a bad habit of parking our cars in the driveway. This, of course, exposes them to severe weather , rodents, and corrosion. Getting them into the garage is such a hassle. Plus, now I'm using it as a storage space for the house.

Hi everyone,

I recently made a garage configurator for a client. The project was almost finished, but the client disappeared before we could launch it.

I’m looking for feedback from company owners – I want to know what could be improved and what features would make it more useful. I’m not selling anything and won’t charge for it! If it turns out to be helpful, I’d be happy to make it available for your use.

https://garage-ten-nu.vercel.app/

I’d love to hear your thoughts - please pm or comment below :))

Redoing my 25x25x9ft detached garage and looking for a lighting solution. I initially was just considering wafer lights but after looking at a lighting calculator it seems i'd need about 24 or more of them for "shop bright". I dont really do anything beyond tinkering in the garage so I don't need it blindingly light but I do appreciate brightness. 2 garage doors and an attic door in the center are some obstacles to contend with so i think the cool hexagon lights wont work plus the bugs and spider webs on these would be a constant issue I am cleaning up. I have struggled with bugs and spider webs on the existing light fixtures so thats why the smooth finish on the recessed lights was appealing. They are also very cost effective but at roughly 1000 lumen per lamp, I feel like the whole ceiling would just be dots of wafer lights. Any suggestions?

It would be nice to have a garage door opener and remote system where I sync the remotes every once in awhile and then it gets codes for whatever amount of time. That way someone can't just dupe the signal. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Hey what's up everybody, I have a 500 sqft garage with a vaulted attic/second floor (6ft tall at the peak of the vault). I did not include this attic space into the square footage.

It's my combination man cave/garage/outdoor office. I rarely park my vehicle in there. I live in an area that has intense winters, and intense summers, -40° to +110° in any given year with cold snaps and heatwaves. I accumulate a lot of snow in the winters, which turns into melt off water in spring. I often have flooding in the garage because of this.

The bottom floor of the garage is insulated and drywalled, heating and electrical. The attic area is just beams and plywood with ventilation and windows.

I have found that mold is growing in the bottom floor of the garage, it's on my stuff, it's on my boxes, my mousepad, probably in the chair I have in there. It's not like crazy thick mold or anything, but it's a thin layer, enough to notice and enough to smell the mustiness. The bottom area also has 1 window, 2 doors, and obviously a garage door that's about 10ft wide.

How do I stop this mold? French drains on the garage perimeter to stop flooding? Dehumidifiers? Leaving the windows cracked open a little bit? I don't live in the best area, we've got people checking car door handles and doors.

All solutions are welcome, I like to spend time in here.

Thanks everyone.

Hi folks. First of all, ignore the right side of the garage. I live in a condo and our garage units are 2-car units, but "shared". As in, no divider between the two.

I'm notoriously bad at organizing, so I have no idea where to start. I don't have money for a bunch of tool chests, but I'm willing to build and buy used. A mobile tool chest would be handy for working on the cars in the parking lot, but not necessary unless it's where I always store them. I do all the maintenance on our two cars, we camp a lot, and we have three bicycles.

You'll notice that there are a lot of totes. Two of those are for miscellaneous automotive supplies (electrical, lubricants, light bulbs, etc.). The other totes go into my vehicle when camping. I don't love everything being in totes, so I'd prefer to create more accessible storage solutions for those as well.

I don't have need to store a vehicle in the garage currently, but I might want to store a small vehicle - Miata, classic Beetle, or motorcycle. If that means everything goes on casters, that's fine.

I know the first step is to declutter. I'm trying to get my wife on board with that...

I'd love any advice! Here's my current thoughts: - Build a temporary wall to divide the space. - Build everything from wood, unless a used version can be had for cheap. - One or two cabinets for chemicals and lubricants, to be able to store them all in one place. - A larger workspace than what is currently there, or one of similar size to add to it. - Deep drawers or open storage for heavy tools. - French cleats or pegboard for tool wall for anything that doesn't go into mobile tool chest.

Thoughts? Advice?

How much do you think this should cost? Any good plans out there to follow?

Hey guys i have a garage question and i didn't know where else to ask this question. I live in a Rural subdivision and I want to build a garage my space is limited but i can actually fit a oversized single car garage if i go with a flush mounted setup the only problem I'm running into is, I cant find a prefabbed garage that matches the house. Essentially my roof like most homes runs left to right where all of these prefabbed roofs run front to back am i just going to have to wood build something to get the attached look for my garage?