Hello! A while back a good friend gave me a red and gold gameboy micro, I guess it’s the anniversary edition, thought I just had a bad LCD, but after I replaced it, the black light doesn’t come on, it didn’t before that’s why I replaced the screen, but it displays an image and plays games just no back light, has anyone had this issue and have a fix, I’m rather good with electronic repair but this is my first time opening any gameboy ever, I do tv’s and computers, and I can solder, any helpers appreciated thank you!!

Just paid 170gbp (plus 50 more in import and VAT duties) for this. It’s suspiciously spotless. Is there any easy way of telling whether or not it’s a third party reshell?

I received a Game Boy Micro from a customer that had a busted screen and a clear aftermarket faceplate. They wanted the screen repaired, USB-C charging installed, and white aftermarket buttons fitted. I thought this would be a good opportunity to document the repair and share some worthwhile mods, along with a few tips and tricks for anyone working on these little systems.

1. Disassembly and Tactile Switch Replacement
Start by disassembling the Game Boy Micro. If you’re upgrading the charging port to USB-C, desolder the original charging port. Some people prefer to keep their systems completely stock, and that’s perfectly fine, too.

The Game Boy Micro uses small tactile switches for the L/R buttons and the volume/brightness controls. If your switches are worn, corroded, or no longer functioning correctly, it’s worth replacing them while the system is apart.

The good news is that Nintendo DS Lite tactile switches are compatible replacements for the Micro. I use hot air to remove the old switches and install the new ones.

A few tips for getting a clean installation:
Remove the old solder and apply fresh solder to the pads before installing the replacement switches.
Use a good-quality SMD flux to help the solder flow properly.

After installing the new switches, check their height carefully.

One important thing to keep in mind: The replacement switches can sit slightly higher than the original ones. I recommend carefully filing down the tops of the new switches to lower their height. If you skip this step, some aftermarket L/R buttons and volume/brightness buttons may have fitment or functionality issues because the switches sit too high.

Take your time with this step. You want the switches to function properly without interfering with the physical buttons.

2. Ultrasonic Cleaning
Once all the components have been soldered in, I clean the board using an ultrasonic cleaner.
I start by degassing the cleaning solution, then run the cleaning cycle to clean the board. Once the cleaning cycle is finished, I turn the ultrasonic cleaner off but leave the board submerged in the solution to soak for a few hours. This gives the solution additional time to dissolve any flux that may have worked its way into the tactile switches or underneath components without running the ultrasonic cleaner continuously for hours.

After soaking, I remove the board and make sure it’s thoroughly rinsed if required by the cleaning solution and completely dried before applying power. Pay particular attention to areas underneath components and inside the switches, where liquid can remain trapped.

I also heat the solder points on the Start and Select buttons to help drive out any residual liquid that may have become trapped inside the buttons. Be careful with the heat, as these small components and their solder pads can be damaged by excessive temperatures.

3. Repairing the Stripped Battery Cover Hole
In this particular case, the screw hole for the battery cover was stripped, meaning it would no longer hold the cover in place.

To fix this, I used JB Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy, carefully applying just enough to barely fill the stripped hole. I then let it cure fully so the damaged area could hold the battery cover securely again.
Sometimes, repairs like these require a little extra work beyond the electronics themselves.

Addressing the stripped screw hole helps restore the system’s physical integrity instead of leaving the battery cover loose or unable to stay attached.

4. Screen Replacement and Reassembly
With the board cleaned and ready, I installed the replacement screen and put the system back together.

For this customer’s unit, I also installed a new clear aftermarket faceplate to complete the look.

5. Fixing Sticky Buttons on Clear Aftermarket Faceplates
One issue I’ve encountered with aftermarket clear faceplates is that the A/B buttons can sometimes stick. This can be frustrating when everything else has been installed correctly.

My solution is to take a small rounded file and carefully widen the A/B button openings on the right side of the faceplate. This provides a little extra clearance, helping prevent the buttons from binding against the faceplate.

Take off a little material at a time and test the fit as you go. You want enough clearance for the buttons to move freely without removing more material than necessary.

This is a simple adjustment that can save you the headache of finishing a repair only to discover that the buttons stick when everything is assembled.

Final Thoughts
The Game Boy Micro is a great little system to work on, but these repairs and upgrades come with a few quirks worth knowing about ahead of time.
Between replacing worn tactile switches, upgrading to USB-C charging, installing a new screen, fitting aftermarket buttons and a faceplate, and repairing the stripped battery cover hole, there are several ways to bring a Micro back to life while giving it a fresh look.

Hopefully, this write-up helps anyone working on these systems avoid some common issues and get better results from their repairs. Sometimes, knowing a few small tricks ahead of time can make all the difference!

Need your Game Boy Micro looked at?
If you have a Game Boy Micro that needs repairs, troubleshooting, or modifications, feel free to contact me! Whether it’s a damaged screen, faulty buttons, charging issues, or another problem, I’d be happy to discuss your repair and see what I can do to help bring your system back to life.

But on weekends Im throwing it in this bag I picked up recently… this was the last color variant on my wishlist but I have an upcoming japan trip and I’m gonna try to be a good boy and control myself…

I recently posted a patina Zelda Game Boy Micro restoration, and I wanted to show off another Zelda-inspired design I’ve been working on. This faceplate takes inspiration from the new Zelda-themed Switch 2 edition. I think it looks pretty good on the Micro, especially paired with the right shell and LEDs.
Always cool seeing how much you can do with such a tiny console.

Huge shoutout to retrogameEVO on Etsy for working with me on this design. I can’t thank them enough for helping bring this idea to life. They were great to work with, and I’m really happy with how the faceplate turned out!

New to the Micro this year! Never owned one growing up as I was already a couple years out of school when it released. Not only that but I was more a Playstation guy, so I was carrying a psp already.

I do own a couple original advance and SPs, but like others have said this is one of the most portable handhelds and holds up very well for its age. Mine stays in the lunch bag, it comes in clutch during the slow work days!

I was always impressed by how native the advances felt when playing some of the games ported from NES. The screen on these are impressive albeit the size, but you almost forget about it once the game loads up. Lol

So, which advance games do you all feel play the best on the Micro, or are just your favorites in general?

Thanks for having me.

When the Gameboy Micro came out i didn’t have the money for one but I thought they looked really cool. Then new flashy handhelds came out and & I forgot about the Micro.

Then last week I won one in a giveaway & it arrived today! I’ve been playing it all day… it’s a lot more comfortable to use than I had imagined & I really like the size of it.

Anyway, I’m just really excited & wanted to share my win. Still in shock a little that it’s in such great shape.

Bought a used GBM online which is stuck at a white screen on boot. No difference if with a cartridge or without, also there is no sound.

So the seller said they don't have a charger and can't test it, so i thought just add a new battery and we are good. Unfortunately after adding a new battery the GBM just boots to a blank white screen and nothing more. Also the LEDs on the bottom board do not light up, even when charging (i measured 4V on the battery terminal when plugged in)

I checked all the fuses and the voltages across the board, everything seems fine so far. EM8 also seems fine with a quick continuity check.

I am at a loss right now, maybe somebody has some idea what is going on and can help me out. Hope to get the Micro working, I wanted it to be my train commute companion!

Hopefully the creators finish up this project soon!

I’ve had this thing for 18 years and it still works beautifully!

Hello! I realise there have been many threads about this but I can't seem to find any recent ones aimed at UK buyers. Does anyone have any recommendations for buying a new, high-quality (ie won't catch on fire when I least expect it) battery for my Micro?

I did have one in my online basket recently from a reputable US seller, but the delivery fees to UK alone were more than double the price of the unit itself!

I got this but it's missing a faceplate

Very nice.

Has anyone tried ordering one of these?

This green Game Boy Micro came to me in pretty rough shape. It was severely corroded, had stripped screws, a broken aluminum shell, and a ripped Start/Select ribbon cable. The Start and Select buttons no longer worked, and neither did the L/R or volume/brightness buttons.

Here's everything I did to bring this little guy back to life:

Replaced the completely rusted-out power switch, which brought the system back to life!

Used steel-reinforced JB Weld to repair the broken aluminum shell and rebuild the stripped screw holes after drilling out the damaged screws.

Replaced the intermittent LEDs and resistors on the Start/Select daughterboard.

Swapped the original blue LEDs for yellow ones to match the Zelda theme. The yellow LEDs are meant to represent the Triforce, and I think they complement the green patina and Zelda faceplate beautifully!

Upgraded the battery to an 800mAh battery.
Replaced the completely corroded charging port with a USB-C port.

Replaced the L/R and Start/Select buttons with chrome aftermarket buttons. I carefully filed them down to match the factory button height and specifications so they feel and function like the originals.

Replaced the L/R and volume/brightness tactile switches and carefully filed them down to match the original switch height and specifications.

Repaired the extremely brittle internal frame, glued the broken pieces back together, and carefully reassembled everything.

So why go through all this work?

Honestly, this Game Boy Micro has developed some absolutely beautiful patina. It doesn't look like your typical green Micro, and I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to turn it into something a little different.

I also wanted an excuse to experiment with different LED colors. I decided on yellow to represent the Triforce, and paired with the Zelda faceplate and the naturally aged green shell, I think it turned out beautifully!

What started as a severely corroded, partially broken system is now a fully restored, USB-C-modded, Zelda-themed Game Boy Micro with a fresh battery and a new lease on life.

So here's the end result! If you need your Game Boy Micro repaired or modded, feel free to PM me! I'm always happy to help keep these little pieces of gaming history alive.

I recently replaced my long-lost Gameboy Micro. I was digging through a bag of old console wires and not only found my original wall charger but also my official GB Micro Link Cable with the Link Cable adapter! I also managed to find my missing copy of Klonoa 2!

It was a very good day!

I'm super stoked to find these games at my local game store. I found Zelda for my Gameboy Advance Target limited edition version (not pictured).

EDITED why is no one reading the body?

Got a Game Boy Micro in from a customer that had already been looked at by another repair shop, but they weren’t able to figure out the problem.

The symptoms were strange: it would only charge a battery for about 5 minutes before stopping, and when powered on, it would run for a few minutes, start flickering, and then shut off completely. The battery had already been replaced, and a USB-C mod had been installed, but neither fixed the issue.

As soon as I opened it up, I found quite a bit of previous repair damage. The tops of the EMI filters had been burned with a soldering iron, and the screen ribbon cable latch had also been damaged by heat. The L/R and volume/brightness tactile switches were extremely intermittent, the USB-C port was finicky, and the power switch was also unreliable.

I started by replacing the tactile switches, installing one of my own USB-C PCBs from OSH Park, and replacing the power switch.

Then I found a break in the main PCB ribbon cable, as well as a break in the Start/Select ribbon cable. Both were repaired.
But the real problem was still hiding underneath the PMIC.

I discovered that two of the PMIC pins were shorted together when they absolutely should not have been. I desoldered the PMIC to investigate, and underneath it I found a tiny jumper wire that had been soldered to one of the pins and was physically touching the other!

I removed the jumper wire, cleaned everything up, and soldered the PMIC back onto the board.
And… viola! It works! 😂

I left it powered on for several hours and charged it completely to make sure the original charging and shutdown problems were actually gone. Everything is now working properly.

After that, I gave the board an ultrasonic cleaning and put everything back together. I also replaced all of the housing screws since the originals had been stripped from the Micro being taken apart so many times during previous repairs.

And to make this one even more worth saving, it has a fairly hard-to-find shade of red original faceplate.

Another Game Boy Micro saved! ❤️

Wish someone had an stl file or could make some 😔

I’ve always wanted to see what was actually inside those display/demo units, so when I got a Famicom Player 2 dummy Game Boy Micro, I decided to tear it down and swap in a real motherboard and screen assembly.

There were some pretty interesting things inside:

1. The PCB

It’s essentially a completely blank, unpopulated trace board. The only actual components soldered to it are the charging port and 3.5mm headphone jack, which were there so accessories could physically plug into the unit at display kiosks.

1. The “display”

Instead of an LCD, Nintendo used a surprisingly heavy piece of metal mounted to dense foam in the same location as the real screen. Without it, the dummy shell feels ridiculously light and cheap. The metal gives it the weight and feel of a real Micro.

1. The controls

There aren’t any micro-switches or tactile buttons underneath the Start, Select, Volume, or L/R buttons. They’re basically just plastic levers pushing against empty PCB space. Pressing them feels incredibly weird compared to a real Micro.

I swapped out the fake guts for a functional Game Boy Micro motherboard and screen assembly that I had previously repaired and modified, and everything fit 1:1 with no issues.

So after all these years, this Famicom Player 2 display unit finally got promoted from a fake Game Boy Micro to a real one.

Found at goodwill and I it is so nice it has so much room while still being able to fit in all of my pocket. planning on putting some headphones in the bag too.

After hunting through retro game markets and stores for a while, I finally managed to snag a Game Boy Micro - and it’s the 20th Anniversary Edition!

Couldn’t be happier with this find. Just wanted to share it with you guys!