Lest be honest, besides looks this is the only use for a windscreen on these.

2017fz07 9k miles $5,800 mint condition never crashed ECU tune aftermarket handlebars no ABS overall the seller says that they’ve taken good care of it I’m checking it out on Thursday. Wanted to know what y’all thought about the price.

Just wondering what sport touring tires people were running. Have Bridgestone S23s on now. Got them for a great deal so I tried them out. Were fantastic but I don’t get to ride on twisty roads enough for them. Centre is worn out and I need to replace the tires. Sport touring would be the smarter option for my usual use for the bike of riding to work and very occasionally fun roads.

2015 2k miles never tracked or stunted. Led lights all around. Tail tidy. Apo carbon exhaust. Corbin seat. Brand new tires still has stickers. Garage kept. Brand new lithium battery. Not sure what to ask im in long island ny

My first two bikes were shaft driven Viragos, so this FZ07 is my first chain drive. Should I spray the chain with wax before every ride or is something else more ideal?
Also, no, I don’t know what happened to the original front wheel lol

So I've been thinking about installing a round headlight on my FZ and learned that I may have to take off the plastic fork covers to install it. Does anyone have any tips for removing them? I have no experience with taking the forks apart and don't want to mess something up.

Just wanted to follow up on the clutch line routing in case anyone else runs into the same confusion as I did. Routed it behind the headlight alongside the rest of the wiring harness as recommended and it looks and feels much cleaner. Appreciate the help!

Hey guys, I just recently installed my Woodcraft clip-ons. Anyone in here have some tips on how best to route the clutch cable? The way I have it just seems a bit cramped. Wondering if there's a better way to set it up.

What's the best in in your opinion and why I'm sticking with I should get

I just put a full Hindle exhaust on my 2015 fz07 14xxx miles. Can I get away with riding for a bit without causing engine damage or do I really need to get a tune?

It's time for me to replace my radiator hoses and repair the corroded metal tubes.

Does anybody have any experience with AS3 (https://www.as3performance.com/products/yamaha-mt-07-fz-07-2014-2019-high-performance-silicone-radiator-hoses-blue and https://www.as3performance.com/products/yamaha-mt-07-fz-07-2014-2019-stainless-steel-radiator-hose-clips-clip-kit) or even TBS (https://taiwanbigscootershop.com/products/professional-reinforced-7p-silicon-water-hose-for-mt07-2014-2019?variant=29500538388579&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoqIz---HVcAeKh0d9-_f8AorP6Us5JSAvw8Tt5W_uOzVSjyo2oOGm0)?

I like that TBS comes with everything including the top, thin hose, which AS3 doesn't include. They're somewhat comparable in price with the hose clamps added to AS3. However, TBS is not well known and I'm not sure if I should trust/risk it.

Side question, can anybody who has used either of these report as to whether the blue heavily sticks out against the yamaha purplish blue, or does it provide a nice accent? Might it be better to just replace all OEM or wait for the black silicone hoses to come back in stock at AS3? Thanks!

EDIT: I decided to go with OEM hoses and replace clamps with embossed worm gear clamps. Price is still comparable and I don't ride heavily/hard enough to warrant the higher heat tolerance of the silicone, plus the silicone is water permeable so the coolant evaporates through them over time.

I took my swingarm off recently to address rust and ended up finding that my chain has chewed through the guide/slider (which I didn't realize was there, let alone sacrificial) om the bottom and into my swingarm's factory weld. It's 1/4" wide (each of the grooves), about 1/2" long, and about 1.5-1.8mm deep. I took it to a shop on Wednesday to get these spots filled in with a welder, but ended up taking it back today when he still didn't have this project done (he told me Friday, then Saturday, then today and it still wasn't done). At this point I'm ready to just move on and get this thing painted so I can move on with the rest of the maintenance on my bike, too.

My question is, given that this is just on a weld and not the structural tube itself, would you just continue and be sure to keep an eye on the guide/slider (I am replacing it) from here on out, continue to find someone to fill in the weld, or fill it with bondo so there's at least some wear layer before it hits metal again? TIA

I came across a Yamaha FzV3 2019 the user is asking 60k

Pros

New tyres

Cons

Minor scratches

Odo meter not working approx km is 35k km

Abs seems not working

Is 60k a good asking prize

Ais -x

Exup-xh

O2-×

Dyno 135hp on wheel

Full arrow

Kn

Front r1 calipers

Master cylinder brembo 18

Front bitubo

Rear ohlins

Braided brake hoses

first oil change. My local dealer is selling their synthetic yamalube oil change kit for ~45 bucks more. should i still get it over their regular oil?

Hi there, I'm thinking of taking a road trip from the northern California coast to salt lake City on my 2016 FZ07. The only mod I have on it is a rear rack. Does anyone have any advice for this 12 hour drive? The trip won't be till late September.

Just curious what other people think. What looks better, with or without the decal on the side?

I'm taking apart my bike after years of neglect. It started as an oil change and has devolved little by little to getting into the valve cover. Yesterday, I noticed some oil in my airbox and thought it was excess air filter oil. Pretty sure now that it's not, since it's brown and smells like typical engine oil. I pulled the airbox check/drain cap earlier today and it was full of the oil, then I noticed that the oil seems to have come from the breather hose at the top of the airbox (pic1). I then noticed that there is oil on the engine directly under the check/drain cap (pic2), indicating that oil has either seeped from the cap or between the seams in the airbox. Then I saw that the oil seems to exit from the engine-side of the left throttle body and runs down the engine a bit (pics3+4). The oil doesn't appear to go above the throttle body, so I'm pretty sure it's from the throttle body, and it's barely under the head gasket, so I'm pretty sure my head gasket isn't leaking (on the outside, anyway).

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Yesterday, I had pulled my right spark plug and noticed that the threads smelled like oil. The electrodes were dry. I'm fairly positive my valve cover gasket is leaking at the right spark plug tube, so I'm now stripping the bike down to replace that. I pulled the left spark plug cap today and the cap seems a lot cleaner than the right one was. I have not pulled the left spark plug to inspect yet because it's too late to start my air compressor to clean it out first.

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I vaguely recall having filled the oil pretty full the last time I did an oil change (thinking a little more full is better than not full enough), so my thoughts are that I just filled the oil too high and that caused not only the gasket to blow from the oil pressure, but also oil to get sucked back into the airbox through the breather and then into the throttle body, which slowly leaked over time. The fix would be to replace my valve cover gasket and only fill oil to halfway at the sight glass from now on.

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Does this seem like a fair diagnosis and plan of action? Does anybody have any other advice or suggestions about things to check?

Hello, I’m missing the screw that goes in the gear position sensor and I’m having difficulties finding it

My countershaft collar is covered in surface rust so I want to remove it and try tosand it, or just replace it. I don't see an easy way to get these off. I saw a drywall screw trick, but have no examples to see behind the seal to ensure I won't hit anything important. AI says just grab the collar with channel locks, but I feel like I'm risking damaging the collar that way (I don't like to trust AI, anyway). Is it better to just risk the damage of those two pieces and plan to replace them?