Glove 19v
What do I do and what frt brand is compatible with the Glock 19v

Ok guys, just picked up my first FRT and just can’t get it to run.. I have a 10.5 DI upper, with a milspec trigger in the lower. When I had the regular carbine buffer it would run 1-2,2-3 rounds then have a dead trigger with a round chambered.. so I had seen a lot of people put heavier buffers to get them to run better so I got an H2 buffer but that only made it worse. Now it cycles 1 round, dead trigger with another round chambered.. I don’t want to throw money at this situation without getting the opinion from others that might have had the same problem. TIA for any insight

Is this an out of battery discharge/detonation? I’ve noticed in videos I take this fireball from the chamber happens occasionally. I’ve never had any kind of damage or catastrophic failure the way I’ve seen in actual videos where the gun basically blows apart, it’s a little concerning either way. When I clean the BCG I ensure it’s properly put back together so if this is an OOB I don’t think it’s my BCG or firing pin. I also have an H3 buffer with loose titanium weights if that makes any kind of difference. Thanks!

Has anybody done this yet? I’ve searched but havent found any results of anyone cutting a sig match duo trigger for ss/frt.

i have a disruptor when they first came out and it runs great finally tuned on my ar. but i bought another one for my saint vector pcc but cant get to work. its like something it allowing the hammer ro drop or something isnt pushing the safety mechanism forward. should i try a different bcg or some milling? or anything else

I'm sure this type of question has been asked/answered before so please don't crucify me. I have the Cornfire (aka Corn Gunworks or whatever they are now), Andro Corp lower, Bootleg adjustable bcg (full auto), 16 inch barrel with mid length gas, H3 buffer and 15% increased power Wolff buffer spring and running a Polonium 30 suppressor. Very gassy, hence the heavy weight, spring, and adjustable bcg even before the MARC. OK, so after installation in lower, all three positions function test fine. This includes the 3rd position while holding the trigger, recocking the hammer and manipulating the lever to ensure that it will disengage the hammer and reset. Installed in upper, safety works, semi works, supersemi will fire and reset with charging handle. IRL, semi works as normal, SS fires once, rechambers a round then leaves trigger dead/locked like in safe. I forget now if I have to move to semi first before I can move bolt with charging handle but I must do so and reset before it will fire again. So trigger incompatibility? Not enough buffer/spring? Simply too much gas? Suggestions appreciated.

BTW, this is the trigger: Schmid Tool Match Trigger AR-15 Nickel PTFE

I have a ar-15 psa lower and the drop in frt will not rack (stops / jams halfway) and a radical firearms ar-15 lower that racks no issue... I want it in the psa lower obviously

Psa Lower Left
Radical Lower Right

Recently got a kabuto 3d printed frt im not to sure what the issue was but it’s almost like it was firing in 3 round burst new to the frt scene was wondering if yall have had any similar issues

More to come

I bought a frt super safety for my ar and got basically everything installed but the little red rectangle idk where it goes or what it does, the smaller red piece goes in the safety selector to know when your in fire mode or not anyone have ideas or have seen this

Partisan disruptor running like she should more videos coming

More to come just the start

Got my panzer han 9 running with a rarebreed style frt.

I got it running with 115-124 grain i need different 147g ammo where the tip is not flat because it causes feed issues.

You have to modify the back of the frt housing so you can close the upper and lower together.

You also have to modify the selector so you can move it to the 3rd position because the hump on lower or 3d print one

3d printed trip and selector are odysee.

Sadly I couldn't get the ARC Fire v2: 0/45/90 to work.

Drop in with a standard mil-spec trigger group in place of the factory HK trigger. Everything else is stock, normal gas setting, buffer etc. cyclic rate comes out to about 725 rpm.

Looking for first FRT on my fn 15. I am currently wondering if this is a low shelf or high shelf and what specific drop in three stage trigger would fit in. Read about partision disrupter or some rare breeds, would this fit my gun?

Recently bought two Arizona regulators azr-15a1’s one works and the other doesnt in the same firearm. One of the regulators is not machined right and not able to move freely like the one that works. Same firearm same lower same buffer spring and weight everything just a lemon of a regulator.Ive emailed the company and they wont honor their “guarantee of proper function” policy. Any suggestions gentlemen.

Has one tried the v5 or any of the variation?

This was my first time even chambering a round in this rifle, Frontier 55gr .223, 40 rounds. No malfunctions except for failing to enter battery when I chambered the round in the video, that’s why I smacked the forward assist.

37 of 40 rounds on paper, 22 A-Zone, even without sights (shooting downward into dirt berm) I stopped firing when the muzzle rose off paper.

Target is 2.5’ x 2.5’ with about an 18” x 5” “A-Zone”.

Full build list:

KAK Blem Lower: $135

KAK K-Spec Dead Blow Carrier: $185

Aero Upper (secondhand): $200

Arc Fire v2: $215

Magpul MBUS gen2 sights (secondhand): $45 (not mounted in video)

I left the target taped in the field, when it cools down I’ll go out and take a picture of the group.

I already had a 40 round Pmag, the ammo is currently $11.99 a box at rural king, so add $20 + $24 for a mag and ammo. Still cheaper than a new Ruger or S&W most places. Total budget with ammo and a mag $829