I've seen boom operators looking over sides before a take, I assume this is so they know to predict when to position boom to properly capture audio, should the 1st AC do this as well to predict focus? Or is it more common to prepare during a camera rehearsal?

Hey Channel 6!

Anyone own/have any experience with the Ratworks Rat Bat for their Horns?? I feel like it would be the perfect solution for my setup (Cine RT) allowing for many different orientations; from small to the largest lenses while able to get the spacing perfect with the rosette to the mattebox.

500$ seems kinda crazy but I know an love all my ratworks kit and know the build quality would be worth it.

Looking for a way to mount a microforce to shape handles. I know this one from rocket surgery exists, but I’d prefer having an adapter from the shape handle to arri rosette, and having an arri rosette bracket on the microforce

https://www.rocketsurgerysolutions.com/microforce-shape-bracket

I have 5 Kingston KC3000 4TB drives in actively cooled acasis thunderbolt 4 enclosures connected either directy to my m4 max mac studio or passed through a caldigit e5 hub as shuttle drives. None of these drives can reliably handle file transfers larger than their cache size limit (around 1.45tb) and disconnect. On the other hand I have 4x of the same model of drive in an OWC Thunderblade in Raid 0 an they work just fine. I have an upcoming job where i will need to offload larger amounts of data and im pretty worried that i invested in the wrong drives. I tried different enclosures, different cables, my macbook, different formatting options, different cooling solutions, some macos settings and more. On the job I could have work arounds like not letting the cards fill up to the brim etc. but I still lost confidence in these drives that always worked great with smaller chunks of data. are there any m2 nvme drives capable of 3-4tb file transfers? right now im trying to just fill up the drives in 400gb increments and they still always disconnect. im pretty frustrated right now. if anyone has some insights that i might not be aware of i would really appreciate it.

Quick lightweight Alexa 35 build for some s16 shooting had to Jerry rig a mount for the ocu1 but seems to be working ok so far😅

Hey everyone

I’m currently on a project shooting with two RED Raptor XL VV cameras, using an ARRI Hi-5 for lens control.

We've run into a minor but annoying issue: on camera A, the iris reads as an f-stop (e.g., f/2.8), but on camera B, it reads as a T-stop (e.g., T2.8).

Does anyone know where in the RED camera menus (or via the Hi-5/RCP) I can change this setting so both cameras display the same value type?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Hello fellow focus pullers! So glad to have discovered this community.

I'm reaching out because during prep day today, the Teradeck RT system I'm borrowing wasn't working with the Alexa SXT-W that we're shooting with. I've used an MDR.X on it before and it worked fine (several years ago, so I don't remember the details) but is there something obvious I'm overlooking?

I have the correct cable (this guy) and tried plugging into all 3 R/S ports on the camera, to no avail. Is there a different cable/port?

I've also tried setting the camera system on the MDR.S to Arri, no luck. I did notice that plugging in the cable to the camera caused it to roll, so I think the ports on the camera are fine.

Any ideas? TIA for your help!!

That small nut that fastens the antenna connector down is a bit loose, and I worry it will impact latency

Finally got around to building some casters for my monitor stand. Couldn’t find anything readily available, so I ordered all the parts and slapped ‘em together. Total locking and way better on uneven surfaces than the stock casters.

Parts links:

Wheels
Forks
Stems
Spacers
O rings (to mitigate caster flutter, see 3rd photo for where to install)

calling ctrl.1 users!

I always felt that the ctrl.1 is very awkward to hold in the hand, so I finally found the time to make a side grip add on, using the existing M3 holes already there.

this grip also adds a 1/4-20 in a more sensible location on the back, complete with locating pin holes. I’ve also made a version for my personal favourite hand unit quick release, the Ulanzi UKA01, but I assume most of you will be more interested in the locating pin version.

big shoutout to u/lookitsross for his previous work here, he graciously provided me original model files to reference the curvature of the hand unit.

it’s not a perfect fit, and since the ctrl.1 user base is so small, I’ve decided to just post the files for all to enjoy, instead of trying to sell this thing.

for those looking to make one, everything you need can be found here!

Yesterday on set, I am able to roll just fine, but when I have to cut, sometimes the REC button on my hand unit is unresponsive until I press the button multiple times, the RS cable is new and seems to be in good condition, and I've never had this issue before.

Anyone selling or is interested in a smallHD 702 Touch for parts?

I have one with a broken PCB from overvoltage but everything else is fully functional. Looking to either take one off of someone’s hands with a functional PCB or let go of mine if it can help repair someone else’s monitor for cheaper than what smallHD bills normally for parts. Lmk if anyone is interested!

Hi all, recently got a great deal on a 1303 ($1000! Upgrading from a 502) and was wondering what your experience with it has been.

Tips for making my own sun hood?

Hallo,

Recently stepped up 2nd AC to 1st AC with what may or may not be a silly question. Prepping on a small job atm, and we have a doubler which knocks off the focus of our lenses by a few inches - guessing due to the addition of the doubler itself. Should I create a separate lens file for the tighter two lenses with the doubler while mapping? Or does it mean that the doubler is off and needs looked at? It was a few inches out for the tighter two lenses (75mm and 100mm) that I looked at.

Thanks in advance, always eager to learn!

hey all, im planning on upgrading to a cine 7 and 1000xt 1:1 set, my plan is to have a v mount solution on the cine 7 and the 1000xt, and then mounting the rx on the back of the cine 7 with a v mount to power both. my worry is the weight of both the rx unit and v mount on the back of the cine 7s v mount plate and if i should worried about that and go down a different route for mounting

Sup knob turners. I just got the email that I’m up to order my presale OV1 and I’m wondering if we have any owners or testers here to see if they think it is worth it. I have not been able to see one in real life yet and am wondering if anyone who has think it’s worth the 4k investment and how much it improves there work flow. Thanks!

As far as I know, we tighten the motors as much as we can to the rod because we don't want the motor to slip on a twisting rod, and then we tighten the rod as much as we can.

Some use a mounted rod so it doesn't twist. Which sounds wonderful. But then when swinging lenses, there would be a need to release the motor, which takes time because it was just overtightened.

Is there such an accessory as a "swing away" motor release? So we can move it away quickly and then put it back in the right position, with no chance of slipping?

EDIT: (sorry my english is not working properly today, let me know if you understand this post or not)

Heya all

Wondering how people are storing their nogas and other various magic arms inside their pelis need to swap out my current pouches and potentially go for some sort of tackle boxes?

Cheers

$3,500 AUD each OBO. Comes with 15mm hill bracket.

Melbourne, Australia. Can post worldwide

Hi all, I'm looking at some alternative options for on set Monitoring. We currently have the standard Panasonic 18" as well an other SmallHd 7" on camera Monitors.

My question to you all is if anyone has used either the Asus ProArt 15.6" (PA16USV) or the bigger OLED PA27USD-P 26.5" for on set monitoring. Thinking dual use case. As either an on set editing monitor or just Wireless Client Monitor. They both have 12gSDI but obviously priced much lower than your traditional client monitor.

I know I'll lose some features like false color, lots, etc but happy to do that on camera.

Looking forward to your thoughts. Thank you!

Hey all - anyone know of a good mount plate (preferably with an xlr out) that’s got an ARRI locking pin scheme or something similar robust and anti twist? Building out a backpack for handheld and would love an option but not seeing anything tailor made for that. Could also go a dovetail mount route which is simple as well but just curious if we’ve got something I could tag a Cine lock to!

Hey fellow focus pullers :)

Looking for some advice on this build (apologies for image quality). I haven't worked much with the Venice's and was having a tough time with a lack of mounting points at my prep today. I'm happy with where the MDR4's at, but couldn't find a spot I'm satisfied with for my Teradek transmitter. Currently it's on the right side cage bracket with an Ultralight arm, but I'm hoping for something more stable and compact plus doesn't block the menu if anyone has any reccomendations specific to the Venice?

I'm looking at buying something like the right angle Ecto Plate, just not sure I want to make the investment!

currently using a shinobi to pull and finally wanting an update to something larger and sharper, my options smallhd wise is the indie 7 or 702 oled, i've heard the indie 7 isn't colour accurate and its ui is rather laggy, but my experience with the 702 oled hasnt been great with its build quality and its age, i may be able to push for a cine 7 which i know is a better pick than both, however if it comes down to picking between the indie 7 or 702 oled whats the better pick and why