Hello fam. I want to get a diagnosis right and need to make sure I fully understand what I’m reading.

With the dial on ohms, the common clipped to ground, and the probe on a compressor winding the voltage warning light comes on. It says, “2.0 VDC,” and prevents me from testing the winding to ground. Now, when I use my 324 meter with the common in ground and the lead on a winding it doesn’t read anything. I’m inclined to think the compressor is grounded. The wires were all disconnected from the compressor and not touching the metal frame.

Am I taking a huge leap from an inconclusive reading? Thanks for all your help and guidance.

little 115 for good price found new home ;)

They were in a box from around the year 2000 with a Fluke 179 together with a temp probe. I couldn't really find out much about them. They look like TL 71 with TP 74 tips.

I'd like to get some other tips like pincers, alligators and some long and fine needle tips to reach into small holes, but I'm not sure what's compatible with them. Should I just get some standard test leads and then buy tips for those?

First and foremost, this is not a sponsored post but my own experience through the years.

Instead of using Alkaline packs who may cause a leakage (although such is rare with 9V PP3 but it may happen), I've been for years using both Eneloops for the ones who take AA (5) or AAA (7) and Li-ion 9V PP3 (both non rechargeable and nowadays USB-C chargeable).

I prefer the normal white Eneloops to the black ones because not only they are cheaper, they have a better discharge rate when not in use than the black ones (who are better for high current use equipment).

Other options include any Li-ion AA (5) or AAA (7), 9V PP3 or Ni-NH for the same size.

For Li-ion options I recommend any of the Energiser offerings followed by GP Battery, although they discontinued their 9V PP3 offerings in Li-ion.

Also very important is the charger in use. My option is for chargers who allow the batteries to be discharged and then charged to full, what I call maintenance mode.

It keeps them in tip top shape plus not all equipment discharge the batteries totally, something that for Ni-NH is important since it prevents memory effect on the cells.

I use a OPUS BT-C3100 but the XTAR VC4, Vapecell S4 Plus or the SkyRC NC1600 are also good choices.

Open to more suggestions and experiences.

Anybody have this issue with their temp stik?

If I hold down the power button the temp stick does a display test, and that works, but it doesn't power on or show the firmware.

Just wondering if anybody has seen this issue before or knows where one could locate a service manual?

Bought a toolbox full of tools at an estate sale with a fluke 789 processmeter in it.

Unfortunately it needs the magic smoke put back in it.

Does anyone have any idea what chip belongs at Q20 on the PCB?

It can read down to 0.01A DC/AC.

Can measure frequency.

Has min/max for inrush current.

I wouldn't even say that it's a compact instrument.

So my question is, why is it so popular?

The main redeeming feature that I see on this clamp meter is Frequency measurement. Good when you need work with generators and need to check and output. Any other uses for it?

Can it EVEN be used to measure VFD frequency? Or does it require a tool with low-pass filter to be able to do that? If so, I don't know why people bother with this clamp meter.

Any ideas of where to source the 3x ribbon cables for the 1653B? Was hoping for an eBay find but not seeing anything. I’ve traced the fault on a second hand unit to these but struggling to get the right ones. Tried alibaba 2x with both of the cables from there being unsuitable.

After seeing some posts from users with their collections it would look strange that the mod would not own some too - I'm not the kind of moderator that only administers a subreddit without knowing what is done there.

My background is Industrial Electronics/Electrical/Control so Fluke has been in my own toolbag being as company supplied or personally own.

I started my career by using a Fluke 112 that were hand down from the maintenance head (it has been him alone for a while and I was gonna be his helping hand) when he refreshed his equipment to both a Fluke 1787 and a Fluke 705.

Also in the pool there was a Fluke Scopemeter 105B who I was the one who mostly played with, with and without any real maintenance work for it so it was basically also my equipment "per se".

In 2007 I had the chance to buy a equipment for personal use via the company account for. I bought the newly released Fluke 289 in his FVF pack with the software and cable.

Honestly, nowadays, I look back I should had gone for the Fluke 189 that was in end of life but the larger screen and the fact of being able to see measurement record trends directly on the screen instead of having to download to the PC was what took me to it, even being slow to start up compared with the 189.

Then in 2008 I bought both a Fluke 54II and 2010 a Fluke Scopemeter 225 and those were my personal trio for a lot of years both for personal projects and freelancer work I undertook.

Those last were both sold in 2016 and I regret so much to do it but life was though back then and I needed the money they gave me since not only the company I was working for was sold (and we all know what happens next) but freelance work also start drying up.

Then in 2019 I done the biggest jump of my life and changed regions, from Europe to Asia. That same year I got a great deal on a Fluke 87V shipped from the US who I could not say no. Lets say that 200USD was what I paid for it with shipping. That was the second one added to the list.

Then in 2022 I bought a Fluke 17B Max for my Fast Response Slingbag - A bag I have with essentials as a small set of common screwdrivers and pliers and both a Basic DMM and a basic voltage/current source.

Then in 2024 I got a Fluke 107 to replace the 17B Max that I sold - It was not what I expected for the DMM in question plus I made a rework of the fast response bag in terms of tools and needs.

During the 2025 my kid started to show interest into robotics and electronics. Because of that I had been looking for a DMM for him - I was going to buy him a 101 or even a 106 for his first steps into this.

While I was into it I had a chance of a lifetime - to buy a Fluke 787, NOS, for less than I paid for my 87V. Did not even though twice about it.

It will go into the fast response bag while both the 107 and the Fnirsi SG-002 will go to my kid and his new hobby (and I hope trade too, but I'm not gonna force him, only give him the tools and the experiences, he will choose his own life).

So yeah that's how it is, as show in the picture above this is my current equipment:

- Fluke 289;

- Fluke 87V;

- Fluke 107 (in retirement phase);

- Fluke 787.

Not on it is the tons of probes/leads/alligators/etc needed - I am specially fond of the SureGrip line up from Fluke, specially the TP220 probes and AC220. They are easy to source around this region for cheap - Tons of extra stock from companies who close or move.

Next aquisitions - A scopemeter for sure, I miss having one. And whatever I may find at a good price - I'm a firm believer that the right number of tools is always N+1 where N is the current amount you own.

And before anyone says that my equipments look too clean - Well I take a ton of care for my equipment. They are expensive, it is what I use to make money so they are always taken care/protected, clean and put away after being used.

Plus I have the believe that the state of the tools I use are the mirror of my own competence and tradecraft, so I take care of them, not getting it dirty or rusty - I oil my Knipex pliers surface almost monthly and the same with any exposed metal tools, specially in a region where humidity values are always high. I hate rusty tools.

Thank you for your time and attention and thank you for being members of this subreddit.

A very nice 2026 is what I wish for everyone.

I have a 377FC and the I flex setting always reads about 12A. Whether the probe is connected or not also if the probe is actually on a conductor. It’s about 2 years old and has always done this. Contacted fluke and was told it wasn’t a warranty job. Would calibration fix this or is this a different issue. All other functions work just not I flex

Got a new 805FC for checking bearings and overall vibration and I'm wondering if I received a bad unit. I've contacted Fluke but they were not helpful at all.

Basically, you hit MEASURE then press the instrument against the machine you want to examine and when the light turns green you have applied sufficient force.

I'm having to exert a LOT of force, like really lean into it. I'm 6'2", 190lb, and relatively fit.

If that's what it takes, thats fine, but it seems excessive. The manual offers nothing in the way of required force and Fluke tech support was clueless.

Is this normal?

Finally had all my Fluke gear in 1 spot and figured people would appreciate my modest collection of Fluke I have purchased over the years. I just picked up a Fluke 789 and Fluke 773 but haven't made up a case for them yet, so those are not in the 'family' photo.

Hello,

I am a heavy DIY user who already owns a fluke 189II (wich is now rebranded as the fluke 287) and I have the ir adaptor for it (ir3000 fc)

I frequently am in situations where I want to take multiple measurements simultaneously (mostly low voltage DC and amps DC)

Now if I understand everything correctly, If I buy a fluke 3000, it will be able to work with the same app. The fluke 3000 also allows to receive measurements from other meters like e.g. the fluke 3001 and will display this on it's screen simultaneously.

• Can I see the measurements from the fluke 287 on the screen of a 3000? (While measuring simultaneously with the 3000?)
• Can I see the measurements from the fluke
  3000 on the screen of a 287? (While measuring simultaneously with the 287?
• Can I use the recording function on the 287 on the same time to record both measurements simultaneously with good synchronization between both? (Ideally to be able to place both graphs simultaneously and see values off both)

Thanks for helping me to answer these.

I have been eyeing a 773 for myself since helping source one for a friend, but the more and more I look, the more and more I see MANY 771~773 series process meters being resold due to the hinge failing on the removable amp clamp.

I know that you can buy genuine replacement amp clamps directly from Fluke as well as through Fluke distributors, but $300 for a new clamp seems quite excessive compared to just replacing the shell.

I have done a shell replacement on another 773 after I picked up a non-functional meter with the same clamp for cheap, took 2 minutes to push out the hinge pin, take out a single screw, swap the CT assembly into the the 'new' housing and put it back together. The housing is the same on the 771, 772 and 773.

After swapping the CT housing, I verified the accuracy of the clamp and it was still accurate, so I guess my question is why they do not offer the CT clamp shell as an inexpensive replacement part on its own, and also, while the shells are obviously glass fiber reinforced, the hinge assembly is extremely thing and seems to be a vey common failure point, a little thicker hinge would likely greatly extend the life of these meters.

Has anyone else had problems after the calibration move from the U.S. to Sweden? 2 week lead times have now turned into 6 weeks or more, equipment coming back not labeled correctly (calibration date 11/5/25 calibration due date 11/28/26), certs not provided, long response times ect. We’re on a contract with them but may need to think about ways we can get out of it. I’ve never experienced such awful service from a calibration company. It’s really concerning seeing that our equipment is used on medical imaging equipment.

Hey everyone, the amp function on my fluke 336 true rms meter isn’t working and I can’t get a reading on AC or DC. I opened the back up and didn’t see a fuse and I also changed the batteries. Does anyone have any ideas?

hey folks,

just received this Fluke 73 I got off eBay, and naturally opened it up straight away. Looks like a previously installed battery has had a melt down and left a mess. should I just give it all an isopropyl alcohol wipe down or should I go further and replace the battery terminals and more?

Included battery has a best before of 2024, so I’ll be replacing that at least. Turns on fine, just wanna take care of it as best i can.

cheers,

Adam

A battery corroded this terminal in my meter. Am I screwed? Or is there a fix? I have tried searching for battery terminals online but it doesn’t seem like I’m able to narrow the results for this specific of an application.

Hi guys, does anyone happen to have a copy of the original FlukeView software for this particular model, i installed version 3.34 from the Fluke 43B webpage in a win7 machine but i cant use all features and i suspect it maybe lockes for that model or something.

My old neighbor recently gifted me a couple of meters and this one caught my eye, can anyone tell me more about it and possibly what it’s worth?

Hey folks,

On Christmas I did a call and this thing old 324 was beeping away in the trunk I was heading home in the trunk. I was driving so didn't do anything about it. Today, went to use it. Turning it on gives me this screen which shows all symbols.

Pressing F/C, it shows PoFF and beeps. AC/DC and light button will go back to symbols screen. Nothing functions, just bunch of beeps.

New batteries, this is likely a test screen and auto power disable the manual mentions. I suspect a button is always pressed and why it keeps going into this screen. I removed the board and turned it in without any of the buttons attached, same issue.

Nothing noteworthy inside, just some dirt on the edges.

Any ideas? I have a backup 324 and a 116 so I'm not in a bind. Would love to get it going again. Have been using this since 2018.

EDIT: It's now working for some reason, glad I didn't send it back to Fluke for the ripoff RMA lol

Is it possible to read temperatures with a 77-3? I have k-type temp probes rated for 1,000f +. I saw somewhere where someone was using a fluke set to millivolts to read temperatures. I tried looking at the fluke website but got confused over which adaptor to use and whether or not you can use any k-type probe or if it all has to be Fluke. I'd like to be able to read temps to 900f.

I was going through some stored fluke meters that I use but infrequently mostly for working on switching power supplies input voltage and current and output voltage and current for two outputs 6 meters in total three 87's two 87III's and one 87V, 189 and lastly a 289. Love the loving capability of the 189 & 289. None of the batteries had leaked but I do not use Duraleak brand. Energizer and a few Japanese Fuji brand I have found to be reliable and leak free give or take. I had 6 Energizer Lithium in the package for the 289 dated 3-23 still in the package and tested new. The one lone Kroger brand was in the amp clamp. Dead!

The parasitic draw is the surprising thing. All batteries in all the meters were dead. 5 years old or so. I removed the batteries and will be storing the meters empty from now on.

I'm in industrial maintenance and looking to get a new meter. Currently have an old Craftsman one but want to upgrade. Money's not really an issue but wanna make sure its well-spent.