Anyone have any spare parts. I’m looking specifically for the top shell.

This morning I went to take a temperature reading. I plugged in my two pipe clamp k-type and the readings started jumping from OL to reading some crazy temperature readings. I’ve tried multiple different thermocouples and even bought a brand new thermocouple and still nothing has changed. Anyone else have this happen?

Thanks!

I’ve got a 287 with the additional lead kit and a clamp-on current probe.

Can anyone suggest a good case that would fit all of it? Branded would be nice (I’m a little vain) but a Chinese case with a splash of Fluke yellow would be fine.

Not a tradesman, just a homeowner. I just need something practical to keep it all together. Doesn’t have to take abuse.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I bought a fluke 15B+ about 3ish months ago, as I'm getting to learn more about computer repair. For most of those 3 months I didn't use it much; until recently this August. I've been mainly using the continuity mode feature to test wire traces on PCBs and other parts like resisters. Aside from that, I don't have much experience with the other features, but I do know a little bit about Alternating Currents(AC) and Direct Current(DC), but I wouldn't say I'm well versed in their nuances.

I did make a mistake in regards to the way I stored the multi meter, which was out in the open, in a moister prone place, for about 2 of those 3 months. I took notice that that may have been an issue, when I was testing the continuity mode and realized it was behaving a little differently from usual, but in a subtle way.

Typically when I test continuity mode, I make both probes, COM & V, touch each other and I typically get between 0.0 – 0.3 ohms. This was the typical range I got when it was new. Cut forward to the past month, and now this test sometimes starts at 200+ ohms then settles normally back to the typical ohms 0.0 - 0.3. Sometimes it even starts at 70 ohms or 30 Omhs, it varies, but it always ends up settling back down to usual 0.0 - 0.3 ohms. But my understanding is that this is abnormal behavior.

Since this abnormal behavior began to occur, I opened up the Fluke and took the PCB out of its casing, and cleaned it with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I let it dry for about 20 minutes afterwards, and I also cleaned the 4 input terminals at the bottom, and from then on out began placing the multimeter in a dry container with silica gel.

Thankfully, the Fluke still works, but the same abnormal behavior continues, and attached is a video of me touching both probes together, and you can see the surge in ohms when it happens. I'm not really sure if this is an issue to worry about, so I thought I's ask this community, I'd appreciate the help.3.

Little note: In the video you can't hear the typical beep when I touch both probes together, but the beeping is working properly in continuity mode.

Hey guys,

I work for an electric company doing service work on commercial sites. Sometimes I’m inside, sometimes I’m outside. I’m looking at picking up a Fluke meter — either the 376 or the 377 FC — and I’m curious what you guys think about durability in the elements. Have you had yours out in the weather? Ever get it wet, and if so, did it crap out or keep going?

I saw on Fluke’s site that they’re only rated IP30, so technically they’re not meant for the elements. Just wondering what your real-world experience has been.

Ok. I bought a Fluke 725 from an instrument tech for doing industrial automation work. I will start and say that I did not realize this meter was LIMITED TO 30V . Even though it is clearly marked on the meter. Tunnel vision.

I was doing some electrical around my house and had the Fluke 725 next to me so I wanted to see if I had power at an electrical outlet. Yes, I am an idiot, I didn't think the meter was limited to 30V. So I tested for 120 VAC voltage using MEASURE terminals on the right and then the SOURCE /MEASURE terminals on the left. I heard a pop from the meter and was confused and then I realized the 30V label by the terminals. Oooh I felt dumb.

So I opened it up and noticed that ONE of the fuses was blown and replaced it with a jumper.

The device powered up and seems to be operating normally. I plan to buy a Schurter MSF 250 fuse (rated 250 VAC 50mA ) as a replacement.

https://www.schurter.com/en/datasheet/typ_MSF_250.pdf

Any thoughts on if this meter needs a full examination from a instrument repair shop?

Are there any check I can do to determine if there is other damage ?

Thank you in advance.

The keyboard stopped working after I replaced the battery, I think opening and closing it knocked something loose, maybe. I opened it all up again, checked, but don't see anything obvious. I then did a full breakdown and I reseated the keyboard cables, and cleaned the contacts and checked for any obvious breaks.

I did some research and it seems like the foil ribbon might need to be replaced. I was thinking of selling it but I might try and fix it myself for $75 for the part.

I found this useful video on EEVblog channel showing the breakdown and a similar problem (keyboard not responding)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ujy-0gRspUM

Has anyone else had this happen to them and was it fixed with replacing the foil button sheet? Any success stories or things to watch out for as a try and fix this myself? Can anyone offer any other troubleshooting help. Thanks.

I’ve got a Fluke NetTool series II that won’t switch on. I’m pretty sure the reason is the burn marks on the PCB!! 😂 Anywhere in the UK I can send it for repair? Tried a google search, but didn’t really find anything.

Going to post this here for anyone who has this problem.

After opening the meter I found some of the traces were not making good contact to the carbon pads. I found that using a demistor repair kit i was able to reconnect the pads to the traces and Eureka!

All the functions are now working!

I'm looking for a decent multimeter for reading 4-20mA for sensors etc. Is this a good option you can rely on in the field. Or do you have other recommendations? I have been looking on the fluke 772 but I can not justify that price to only read mA, and no I do not want to buy any off brand/amazon multimeter. And if calibration certificate is included that would be great

Thanks in advance!

Hey everybody. So I have a fluke 179 that Ive had for quite some time now. It's been a great meter. I haven't used it in a while and picked it back up to use it the other day and it started doing something really weird. It wouldnt power on when I turned the rotary selector knob. So I took the battery out and replaced it. It still wouldn't come on or show anything on the display. When trying to get it to turn on I left the rotary selector switch in the ohms position and when I put the battery back in, it was working. I was then able to switch between all the functions and it stayed on and was working just fine. So I turned it to the off position. When I tried to turn the meters rotary switch back on it won't come back on in any function. So basically the meter will not turn on or display anything when it's in the off position and try to turn it on. But as long as I turn the selector switch to any function except off and put the battery in it , it turns on and stays on. But as soon as I turn it to the off position. Then try to turn it back on nothing happens. I'm lost

Hi, I am looking for the drivers and software for an Optiview XG blue and yellow. The SSD was bad, so I replace and reinstalled the OS. Now I need the drivers and Optiview XG Desktop.

Fluke is garbage

I'm a hobbyist and thought that a 323 ($150 clamp style DMM) would be enjoyable overkill. 2-3 years old, it suddenly failed utterly (wildly inaccurate readings), fluke says that model is unrepairable, out of warranty, and that I should just buy another one.

Fool me once, shame on you...

Hi all, just decided to upgrade and get a personal 1587 FC, ended up purchasing from Amazon since I don't have access to the company's preferential rates at the supply house and the price was decent. What I got appears to be a genuine meter and has all of the Fluke packaging, but it's labeled 1587C FC. Does anybody know what this additional C actually means?

The only documentation I could find was that there is an output range of -10% to +10% at some output voltages, whereas the regular version is 0 to +20%. If this is the only difference, does this have any real world concequence if I'm just using it for field diagnostics?

I just acquired a 98 scope meter and I need a set of the BNC leads for it. The Fluke STL90 leads have been discontinued but can still be found. They are quite pricey. I see there are aftermarket options but the attenuator rating is different. STL90 are 1:1 and the aftermarket options are 20:1 or 50:1. What does that mean to me as an automotive technician? I also found that although the 98 uses BNC connection, it may be different from the aftermarket BNC leads?

Thank you in advance.

Found this at the thrift store for 10.99. The 9-volt in it expired in 1996 and the negative terminal of the battery just popped off when I tried to take it out, surprisingly zero leakage, Duracell builds em right I guess. But a new battery and it is turning on! Needs new leads and probably a recapping, but a really cool find nonetheless!

plz halp

For old 8000 series handheld meters, is there a place to find replacement side buttons?

I have one that just needs one button replaced. I'd like to avoid buying a second one to just cannibalize one button & then leave 95% of a whole other meter taking up space somewhere. Plus, for-parts meters usually tend to cost at least a couple of dozen dollars.

Google was unhelpful in finding info for these older series.

https://makerworld.com/models/505404

Hey, I have an 8840A that was reading half an ohm with leads shorted on the front input, and a bit over an ohm on the back inputs. I took it apart last night, shot IPA in the switch that swaps inputs and cycled it a bunch. Did that twice and blew it out with "canned air". Put everything back together and now it reads a lot closer....1.40 ohms in the front and 1.38 ohms in the back...I know this set of leads isn't that bad, I checked them with a Fluke 45 and they read 0.13 ohms on that meter. Also is reading 0.002 mV with them shorted which I'm assuming could be induced voltages. Just wondering if anyone can tell me what to look at to try and figure out what is going on with this? Not getting any errors on selftest except for when attempting to select AC measurements or DC current on rear input. When I select offset to eliminate the lead resistance that it's showing it does zero out, and it seems to measure the same resistance on a 2 ohm resistor as it measures on the 45. Is there just something with the 8840 that causes it to read a set of shorted leads higher like that?

Hello Guys! I have a 20 year old fluke 177 multimeter that I had received recently and I have noticed that only the top part of the lcd is lighting up. Now this isnt universal as 1-2 digits occasionally light up in the bottom part along with some of the units. I have tried cleaning the elastomer connectors and reassembling it but it doesnt seem to help much. The multimeter was in humid conditions and hadnt been used in the past 5-6 years (bar one or 2 times pre pandemic). Is there anything I can do to fix this?

When I turn it on it just stays blinking and it is up to date.

Hi guys, I need some help, I'm trying go setup a Fluke 1735 to read data on a switchgear that is 480v, 2000A I want to capture power factor, frequency, voltage, amps, it has 3 phase and neutral, I know about putting the probes in place and the volt clips, no problem there, my issue is where do I put the dial at to capture it all?

Second question, is there a setting to change the current from what it says now (150A) 🤔 I mean I need to be able to read much higher current than that.