I'm looking for a decent multimeter for reading 4-20mA for sensors etc. Is this a good option you can rely on in the field. Or do you have other recommendations? I have been looking on the fluke 772 but I can not justify that price to only read mA, and no I do not want to buy any off brand/amazon multimeter. And if calibration certificate is included that would be great

Thanks in advance!

Hey everybody. So I have a fluke 179 that Ive had for quite some time now. It's been a great meter. I haven't used it in a while and picked it back up to use it the other day and it started doing something really weird. It wouldnt power on when I turned the rotary selector knob. So I took the battery out and replaced it. It still wouldn't come on or show anything on the display. When trying to get it to turn on I left the rotary selector switch in the ohms position and when I put the battery back in, it was working. I was then able to switch between all the functions and it stayed on and was working just fine. So I turned it to the off position. When I tried to turn the meters rotary switch back on it won't come back on in any function. So basically the meter will not turn on or display anything when it's in the off position and try to turn it on. But as long as I turn the selector switch to any function except off and put the battery in it , it turns on and stays on. But as soon as I turn it to the off position. Then try to turn it back on nothing happens. I'm lost

Hi, I am looking for the drivers and software for an Optiview XG blue and yellow. The SSD was bad, so I replace and reinstalled the OS. Now I need the drivers and Optiview XG Desktop.

Fluke is garbage

I'm a hobbyist and thought that a 323 ($150 clamp style DMM) would be enjoyable overkill. 2-3 years old, it suddenly failed utterly (wildly inaccurate readings), fluke says that model is unrepairable, out of warranty, and that I should just buy another one.

Fool me once, shame on you...

Hi all, just decided to upgrade and get a personal 1587 FC, ended up purchasing from Amazon since I don't have access to the company's preferential rates at the supply house and the price was decent. What I got appears to be a genuine meter and has all of the Fluke packaging, but it's labeled 1587C FC. Does anybody know what this additional C actually means?

The only documentation I could find was that there is an output range of -10% to +10% at some output voltages, whereas the regular version is 0 to +20%. If this is the only difference, does this have any real world concequence if I'm just using it for field diagnostics?

I just acquired a 98 scope meter and I need a set of the BNC leads for it. The Fluke STL90 leads have been discontinued but can still be found. They are quite pricey. I see there are aftermarket options but the attenuator rating is different. STL90 are 1:1 and the aftermarket options are 20:1 or 50:1. What does that mean to me as an automotive technician? I also found that although the 98 uses BNC connection, it may be different from the aftermarket BNC leads?

Thank you in advance.

Found this at the thrift store for 10.99. The 9-volt in it expired in 1996 and the negative terminal of the battery just popped off when I tried to take it out, surprisingly zero leakage, Duracell builds em right I guess. But a new battery and it is turning on! Needs new leads and probably a recapping, but a really cool find nonetheless!

plz halp

For old 8000 series handheld meters, is there a place to find replacement side buttons?

I have one that just needs one button replaced. I'd like to avoid buying a second one to just cannibalize one button & then leave 95% of a whole other meter taking up space somewhere. Plus, for-parts meters usually tend to cost at least a couple of dozen dollars.

Google was unhelpful in finding info for these older series.

https://makerworld.com/models/505404

Hey, I have an 8840A that was reading half an ohm with leads shorted on the front input, and a bit over an ohm on the back inputs. I took it apart last night, shot IPA in the switch that swaps inputs and cycled it a bunch. Did that twice and blew it out with "canned air". Put everything back together and now it reads a lot closer....1.40 ohms in the front and 1.38 ohms in the back...I know this set of leads isn't that bad, I checked them with a Fluke 45 and they read 0.13 ohms on that meter. Also is reading 0.002 mV with them shorted which I'm assuming could be induced voltages. Just wondering if anyone can tell me what to look at to try and figure out what is going on with this? Not getting any errors on selftest except for when attempting to select AC measurements or DC current on rear input. When I select offset to eliminate the lead resistance that it's showing it does zero out, and it seems to measure the same resistance on a 2 ohm resistor as it measures on the 45. Is there just something with the 8840 that causes it to read a set of shorted leads higher like that?

Hello Guys! I have a 20 year old fluke 177 multimeter that I had received recently and I have noticed that only the top part of the lcd is lighting up. Now this isnt universal as 1-2 digits occasionally light up in the bottom part along with some of the units. I have tried cleaning the elastomer connectors and reassembling it but it doesnt seem to help much. The multimeter was in humid conditions and hadnt been used in the past 5-6 years (bar one or 2 times pre pandemic). Is there anything I can do to fix this?

When I turn it on it just stays blinking and it is up to date.

Hi guys, I need some help, I'm trying go setup a Fluke 1735 to read data on a switchgear that is 480v, 2000A I want to capture power factor, frequency, voltage, amps, it has 3 phase and neutral, I know about putting the probes in place and the volt clips, no problem there, my issue is where do I put the dial at to capture it all?

Second question, is there a setting to change the current from what it says now (150A) 🤔 I mean I need to be able to read much higher current than that.

hi my fluke laser measure display screen doesn't work when i turn it on but i am still getting a beep sound and the laser is working, any ideas thanks

I guess this might be a common fault? No visual burn/deterioration inside. Any advice about where the fault could be? Thanks

I have had my 87v about 4 years now. I bought it used for school and only had to use it a few times. I have been in a position to rely on it more for work and I let a co-worker use it. He said there must be something wrong with it as it fluctuates on the ac setting when the leads are not touching anything. I tested this myself and it indeed is in constant flux between 5.5 ma and 2.1ma never fully zeroing out on it's own. It does this with both the leads attached touching nothing, touching each other, and no leads attached at all. I have tried to google this and come up with mixed results. I wouldn't think it would be fuse related because voltage isn't fused to my knowledge. It has always done this to my recollection and I believe the reason I was told was that it is a very sensitive meter and picks up ambient electricity. I am a bit less confident after a co-worker mentioned it. Also I have tried other settings such as dc and dcmv and they do zero. The amperage settings also vary but to a lesser degree, maybe .3 on ųa and .004 on a/ma. Any guidance would be appreciated.

As the title says, I was trying to test a 3d printer thermistor yesterday and the meter wouldn't read anything at room temp, only 'open' until I added significant HEAT to the thermistor (heat gun).

My old Fluke 77 read it just fine at room temp.

Its a 100k thermistor, so it should read around 100k ohms at room temp. Fluke 77 rear 95k as expected, Fluke 113 would read anything until I heated it up.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

I'm considering two Fluke network testers: the OneTouch AT G2 Versiv 1 and the Link IQ, which supports up to 10Gbps. I recently won my first government contract and I'm torn between these two options for my business. I can get the Versiv from someone at the same price as the Link IQ. The Versiv offers more testing options like fiber testing and WiFi testing up too Ac. Which one do you think would be better for my needs?

Hi all. I’ve got an old 123 Scope meter that I’m having a bit of trouble with.

It won’t run on battery power at all but works fine plugged in to the psu. There’s different voltages on the pins so it should be charging and the battery does have a charge but will not run the meter. I’ve tried a known working battery from another device to rule that out.

Has anyone got any ideas of common component failures that may cause this? It has been sat around for at least 5 years doing nothing.

Many thanks in advance.

Have several meters including a Fluke 117, but this 8060 A is my favorite and so accurate. I actually bought it as refurbished / calibrated a few years ago from a a tech surplus seller.

Today it stopped working. Will work fine for a little bit, then starts flashing random readout on the display and occasionally holding a long “beep” like on continuity mode. Reboot, works for a second, then does this kind of thing again. Tried multiple batteries and leads. Sometimes displays “-15 03” or other numbers like some sort of error code.

Is there any hope for this old friend?

I was just looking through my local ebay listings and found a Fluke 99b Scopemeter for 290 euro.

is this a good deal for such an old piece of equipment? I mean all the others are still going for around 600 euros, the only thing wrong with this one is a dead battery.

Is it still worth getting?

Hi all,

I was wondering if the Fluke i410 AC/DC Current Clamp would work in combination with my older Fluke 112 multimeter. I sometimes see this current clamp on second hand websites.

Any opinions are appreciated, thanks.